10-20 Update

[RedMF40]

Taking it slow, giving the tractor a healthy dose of penetrant just about everywhere. Will have to buy another can soon. Main goal is to free up the side curtains to the point where they open and close without stressing the metal. Left side is good. Right side is almost good. I've sprayed and tapped the hinge up top as well as on the side curtain. I may end up removing the whole assembly to get better access to the motor. There is a bolt up front which--if not frozen up--should allow me to take it off. Right side of the hood has rust up top that has taken away some of the metal right at the front near the radiator. My metalworking skills aren't such that I can repair that so I'm treading lightly.

Pleasant surprise: Opened the radiator cap and found BRIGHT GREEN antifreeze at or near the top of the radiator. I feel the block must be in good shape.

I was able to open the right side curtain enough to spray down the spark plugs in order to remove and get some ATF or some other mixture in there to start working on getting the pistons loose.

 

[Rich'sToys]

The green anti-freeze is a good sign! Keep us posted.

 

[SweetFeet]

Taking it slow, giving the tractor a healthy dose of penetrant just about everywhere. Will have to buy another can soon. Main goal is to free up the side curtains to the point where they open and close without stressing the metal. Left side is good. Right side is almost good. I've sprayed and tapped the hinge up top as well as on the side curtain. I may end up removing the whole assembly to get better access to the motor. There is a bolt up front which--if not frozen up--

Taking it slow, giving the tractor a healthy dose of penetrant just about everywhere. Will have to buy another can soon. Main goal is to free up the side curtains to the point where they open and close without stressing the metal. Left side is good. Right side is almost good. I've sprayed and tapped the hinge up top as well as on the side curtain. I may end up removing the whole assembly to get better access to the motor. There is a bolt up front which--if not frozen up--should allow me to take it off. Right side of the hood has rust up top that has taken away some of the metal right at the front near the radiator. My metalworking skills aren't such that I can repair that so I'm treading lightly.

Pleasant surprise: Opened the radiator cap and found BRIGHT GREEN antifreeze at or near the top of the radiator. I feel the block must be in good shape.

I was able to open the right side curtain enough to spray down the spark plugs in order to remove and get some ATF or some other mixture in there to start working on getting the pistons loose.

.Right side of the hood has rust up top that has taken away some of the metal right at the front near the radiator. My metalworking skills aren't such that I can repair that so I'm treading lightly.

Pleasant surprise: Opened the radiator cap and found BRIGHT GREEN antifreeze at or near the top of the radiator. I feel the block must be in good shape.

I was able to open the right side curtain enough to spray down the spark plugs in order to remove and get some ATF or some other mixture in there to start working on getting the pistons loose.

Taking it slow, giving the tractor a healthy dose of penetrant just about everywhere. Will have to buy another can soon. Main goal is to free up the side curtains to the point where they open and close without stressing the metal. Left side is good. Right side is almost good. I've sprayed and tapped the hinge up top as well as on the side curtain. I may end up removing the whole assembly to get better access to the motor. There is a bolt up front which--if not frozen up--should allow me to take it off. Right side of the hood has rust up top that has taken away some of the metal right at the front near the radiator. My metalworking skills aren't such that I can repair that so I'm treading lightly.

Pleasant surprise: Opened the radiator cap and found BRIGHT GREEN antifreeze at or near the top of the radiator. I feel the block must be in good shape.

I was able to open the right side curtain enough to spray down the spark plugs in order to remove and get some ATF or some other mixture in there to start working on getting the pistons loose.

Are you gonna keep her rusty?

 

[RedMF40]

Are you gonna keep her rusty?

Of course! I like the unrestored look.

 

[SweetFeet]

Of course! I like the unrestored look.

Yay!!!
People driving by when an old rust bucket is out working, like them too - heads turn.

 

[rockcreek4630]

Taking it slow, giving the tractor a healthy dose of penetrant just about everywhere. Will have to buy another can soon. Main goal is to free up the side curtains to the point where they open and close without stressing the metal. Left side is good. Right side is almost good. I've sprayed and tapped the hinge up top as well as on the side curtain. I may end up removing the whole assembly to get better access to the motor. There is a bolt up front which--if not frozen up--should allow me to take it off. Right side of the hood has rust up top that has taken away some of the metal right at the front near the radiator. My metalworking skills aren't such that I can repair that so I'm treading lightly.

Pleasant surprise: Opened the radiator cap and found BRIGHT GREEN antifreeze at or near the top of the radiator. I feel the block must be in good shape.

I was able to open the right side curtain enough to spray down the spark plugs in order to remove and get some ATF or some other mixture in there to start working on getting the pistons loose.

Start spraying the carb they use a cork float and most of the time they are deteriorated and need replaced. Check the mag and make sure it is loose and not froze up before you turn the engine could save finding parts.

 

[rustred]

Taking it slow, giving the tractor a healthy dose of penetrant just about everywhere. Will have to buy another can soon. Main goal is to free up the side curtains to the point where they open and close without stressing the metal. Left side is good. Right side is almost good. I've sprayed and tapped the hinge up top as well as on the side curtain. I may end up removing the whole assembly to get better access to the motor. There is a bolt up front which--if not frozen up--should allow me to take it off. Right side of the hood has rust up top that has taken away some of the metal right at the front near the radiator. My metalworking skills aren't such that I can repair that so I'm treading lightly.

Pleasant surprise: Opened the radiator cap and found BRIGHT GREEN antifreeze at or near the top of the radiator. I feel the block must be in good shape.

I was able to open the right side curtain enough to spray down the spark plugs in order to remove and get some ATF or some other mixture in there to start working on getting the pistons loose.

I would keep this all in one post. Much easier to follow from start to finish. Yes antifreeze is the best sign. Back then them tractors never saw that stuff. Nobody could afford it.

 

[RedMF40]

Took off the inspection hole covers to peek inside. Bottom end looks very clean, no signs of rust. I’ll clean up the covers before putting them back on.

 

[Kelly in tx]

Good report! Come work on mine next please : ) kelly

 

[RedMF40]

Brief update: I pulled the plugs and have the cylinders soaking in a mix of ATF and acetone. The plugs all look to be in excellent condition, no carbon buildup or unusual wear. Uniform gap across all four plugs.

I want to work on freeing up the clutch while the motor is soaking. I have a little movement at the pedal but everything is stuck from being out in the weather and the effects of rust. I'm curious if I can lightly bang on the clutch assembly itself with a heavy hammer to begin freeing it up. I'll circle the part I'd like to bang on. I'll also post in the forum for McCormick-Deering with this question.

Motivation: I've wanted a 10-20 for some years, mainly because I like how they look all on steel. During my search I didn't have it in mind to actually get one running again. Just a display piece or "yard art" as people say these days. But having gotten my hands on a fairly intact tractor that looks like it could be brought back to life, I decided to change course. Also, I spent a bit more than I'd like to on something that will sit outside and rust away even more. I offer all this by way of explanation of where I am in the whole process. Even with all the work it needs, I think this tractor is too nice to park and leave it outside without at least trying to get it mechanically in shape. I'll see how far I can get.

 

[Janicholson]

Use some penetrant on the bolts and loosen them as much as you can! Jim

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Brief update: I pulled the plugs and have the cylinders soaking in a mix of ATF and acetone. The plugs all look to be in excellent condition, no carbon buildup or unusual wear. Uniform gap across all four plugs.

I want to work on freeing up the clutch while the motor is soaking. I have a little movement at the pedal but everything is stuck from being out in the weather and the effects of rust. I'm curious if I can lightly bang on the clutch assembly itself with a heavy hammer to begin freeing it up. I'll circle the part I'd like to bang on. I'll also post in the forum for McCormick-Deering with this question.

Motivation: I've wanted a 10-20 for some years, mainly because I like how they look all on steel. During my search I didn't have it in mind to actually get one running again. Just a display piece or "yard art" as people say these days. But having gotten my hands on a fairly intact tractor that looks like it could be brought back to life, I decided to change course. Also, I spent a bit more than I'd like to on something that will sit outside and rust away even more. I offer all this by way of explanation of where I am in the whole process. Even with all the work it needs, I think this tractor is too nice to park and leave it outside without at least trying to get it mechanically in shape. I'll see how far I can get.

You've got nothing to lose by banging on the clutch. It's yard art now. It'll still be yard art if you break something. It has zero chance of freeing up if you just stare at it, though.

 

[RedMF40]

This afternoon I took off the belt pulley to give me a little room. Room for what, you may ask?

Room for a long pry bar I bolted to the flywheel. Jiggling it back and forth, I’m getting some movement from the flywheel—more in one direction than the other.

For those who know, should I be looking at other potentially locked-up components before I get too happy with this pry bar? Seems someone mentioned the mag. Good idea to remove it and see if it’s loose?

Satisfied with my progress today.

Gerrit

 

[Janicholson]

This afternoon I took off the belt pulley to give me a little room. Room for what, you may ask?

Room for a long pry bar I bolted to the flywheel. Jiggling it back and forth, I’m getting some movement from the flywheel—more in one direction than the other.

For those who know, should I be looking at other potentially locked-up components before I get too happy with this pry bar? Seems someone mentioned the mag. Good idea to remove it and see if it’s loose?

Satisfied with my progress today.

Gerrit

Yes!!! undo the valve train/rocker arms Forcing them can break things if the valves are stuck. this also gives you a chance to squirt some penetrating oil on the stems between the spring coils. (not WD40 unless it is the penetrating new product). Jim

 

[RedMF40]

Just a brief update. Not much to say but I'm sure I'll take a long time saying it. Moved the tractor. So there's that. It was parked in an inconvenient place in front of the garage. And let me tell you when those big steel lugs dig in it's not like it wants to go anywhere. But it rolls pretty well once you get it in motion. Towed it with the Cub. Probably a better idea to use the Massey loader tractor. Just wanted to see what the Cub could do. Somewhat related--the neighbors are moving and throwing a lot of things in a dumpster they have outside the house. Since I'm a scavenger at heart I had to look. There was a full sheet of new 3/4" plywood in there. Never used. They said help yourself. Easier said than done. It was wedged against the side with mattresses and the weight of a full dumpster pressing against it. But it was right there, and easily accessible once I opened the big steel door that allows all the trash to empty. I rode over on my Wheel Horse with a Predator motor, took along a tow strap and hole saw. Hooked into the hole I made and tugged. Took a few running starts but the plywood broke loose. How does this relate to the 10-20, which is the subject of this discussion? I need to protect my garage floor. I've not been kind to it, with various fluid spills and just general heavy use. It is a really nice floor; I don't want to insult it by rolling the 10-20 in there with those heavy lugs. But if I can gently ease it onto the scavenged plywood, I think that'll provide enough protection. Maybe even another sheet under it. Taking off all those lugs is not in the works at the moment, so this is the plan.

I have some movement at the flywheel. Not much, a little. With a friend looking through the inspection ports at the bottom end, the crank is the only thing moving. The cylinders are soaking in a mix of ATF and acetone, but it hasn't convinced the pistons to break free. I'll jiggle my breaker bar I bolted to the flywheel from time to time. My understanding is this can take a while.

I'm not happy with the sheetmetal situation. I've soaked the top hinge at the hood and the two side curtains liberally with penetrant. I've freed them up a little, but to access the engine I've been moving the whole business forward out of the way without trying to open it. The hinges are still too rusted and I'm not sure any amount of PB Blaster will free them up. Forcing them at this point would just tear the already-stressed sheetmetal. I don't want that. When I wheel the tractor inside out of the weather I'll likely remove the hood and side curtains and set aside while I'm dealing with the motor. Maybe hit it with more penetrant from time to time in the hopes of it doing something. Overall, the hood and side curtains are in decent shape. Rust worms have eaten away at a couple of corners, not too worried about that. Would mainly like to see everything open and close as it should. And there is one area in the top hinge where the metal is gone. All the more reason to proceed gently.

That's the current situation this Friday morning.

Gerrit

 

[RedMF40]

I had a little time on Sunday to get into the 10-20 project. First thing’s first—I still had to roll it the final few feet into my garage. How? How was I going to do that? I had the thick plywood to park it on, and it was parked right in front of the door. Should be easy, right? Not easy. After some head-scratching, then thinking about it, then more head-scratching—I decided to make a hitch for the back of my pickup that would attach to the front of the 10-20. Just a little shove would get the tractor into place. It had to ride up over a small lip where the actual floor rose a bit from the outside area. I was picking through the scrap metal barrel to find some pieces to fab up this wonderful idea when I thought of the pipe. The pipe. I’d found it on the side of the road, can’t remember exactly where. And that had to be at least five years ago. Since then, the pipe has been sitting in a corner of my shop, waiting for its moment. As pipes go, this is a good one. Thick-walled steel, about three inches in diameter, and maybe five feet long. It was time for the pipe. I heated the ends, smashed them as flat as possible, and burned a hole at each end. Picking some big, rusty bolts out of my rusty bin of hardware, I had an ugly but useful tow bar—with a bolt to act as a hitch pin at each end.

I backed the truck into place, hooked up to the tractor, and gave it a shove. It rolled easily into the garage. With a few refinements, maybe a coat of paint or some more whacks from a heavy hammer, the tow bar might actually fool some people into thinking it’s a fancy, custom-built tool. Unlikely, but possible.

With the tractor in place, I took off the hood and side curtains. I’d already removed the valve cover while it was outside, but now I saw something that would need further investigation: A bent push rod. On number one cylinder. I took the valve train off, removed all the push rods and from what I can tell it is just that one that is bent. I started undoing the cylinder head, opened up the drain for the radiator, and let the coolant drain into a catch pan underneath. It kept coming, a lot of it. Finally I guesstimated it was below the cylinder head and capped off the drain pipe. I'll deal with the green stuff later. I like the idea of pulling the head, and now I have more of a reason to do it. Trying to be more proactive. I think—overall—the motor will benefit from getting things freed up on the outside, even if does nothing for the pistons. In any case, it’ll make me feel better. Just need to find some jugs to store all that nice green antifreeze.


I’ll check back, hopefully after I have the head off.

 

[RedMF40]

Ok, I'll try to pick up where I left off. Pulled the head and retrieved one dropped valve in the number one cylinder. Valve is stuck, which probably explains the bent pushrod. Tapped on the others, mostly look good with one valve on number four also stuck but no damage that I can see. Of special note, feel free to admire the special adapter I fabbed up to remove the cylinder head. Quite proud of that small achievement. Easily came loose with help from my overhead hoist and stayed put until I could lower it onto a dollie. Didn't fall on my toes or any other part of my body, so I'm happy about that. Looks like it weighs more than five pounds.

Jiggled my breaker bar on the flywheel some more, thinking I'd get some play from the pistons. Number one is moving tiny bit and I think it's mostly freed up. The others need to follow suit. When I have a little more time I'll pull the oil pan and see what I can do at the bottom end. If the pistons are resisting my efforts from the top, maybe I'll sneak up on them from behind. Tractor is dead as it is, can't kill it any more.

Signing off this Sunday afternoon. I'll see what pics I have that might be of interest.

Gerrit

 

[TerryfromSWIowa]

One small trick for trying to get piston loose after soaking with your favorite penetrant is to warm piston and block with a small propane torch. This may break the bond of rust.

 

[RedMF40]

Thanks. From what I’m now seeing, numbers 1-3 are loose but #4 is the lone holdout. Always one in every crowd

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Thanks. From what I’m now seeing, numbers 1-3 are loose but #4 is the lone holdout. Always one in every crowd

Of course it's at the top of the stroke. If it was down I'd say give it the fill it with diesel and light it treatment.

Just a Few Acres Pete posted a video yesterday of him doing the same thing to the engine on his old IH truck. Might want to give it a view for some ideas. I won't go into detail because I don't want to spoil the video for anyone who hasn't watched it yet.