1963 Ford workmaster

[Chris napoer]

1963 Ford workmaster wont start on starting fluid

 

[old]

1963 Ford workmaster wont start on starting fluid

Gas or diesel lack of info makes it hard for us to help you help your self

 

[Chris napoer]

Gas or diesel lack of info makes it hard for us to help you help your self

It is gas and changed points coil condenser points are set on 0.16 it has spark but it's not very strong looking spark and it has a new carb

 

[Chris napoer]

It is gas and changed points coil condenser points are set on 0.16 it has spark but it's not very strong looking spark and it has a new carb

And new plugs and wires

 

[Chris napoer]

Was running fine shut it off and now it won't even hit on starting fluid

 

[Chris napoer]

1963 Ford 601 workmaster

 

[used red MN]

Was running fine shut it off and now it won't even hit on starting fluid

Hello Chris welcome to YT! Did it ever run after you did this work to it or the statement “it ran fine” is before this work was done? Have you done this type of work before or are you learning as you go? What brand of ignition parts did you put on it (points)? Either way I would recommend just putting the old condenser back in it and see if it will run. These days of condensers from the “land of almost right” seems to find many new ones that come faulty out of the box.

 

[old]

It is gas and changed points coil condenser points are set on 0.16 it has spark but it's not very strong looking spark and it has a new carb

Points as per the manual should be set at 0.024-0.026. I set mine at 0.025

 

[Janicholson]

Welcome to YT. New components often make it more difficult to diagnose. Use a test light, ground the alligator lead then touch the coil lead to the points. When cranking the light should flash on and off with each cylinder. Next make sure the coil is designed for running with a resistor in the supply from the ignition switch. (IIRC it has one) if not, and is "no resistor required" then it is the wrong coil. Jim

 

[Chris napoer]

Yes it ran fine after all parts were put on it for couple hrs shut it off and won't start back

 

[timcasbolt]

Hello Chris welcome to YT! Did it ever run after you did this work to it or the statement “it ran fine” is before this work was done? Have you done this type of work before or are you learning as you go? What brand of ignition parts did you put on it (points)? Either way I would recommend just putting the old condenser back in it and see if it will run. These days of condensers from the “land of almost right” seems to find many new ones that come faulty out of the box.

Quick question: If the condensor is bad, wouldn't the points be burnt also? Or could a condensor be bad and the points still good?

 

[old]

Yes it ran fine after all parts were put on it for couple hrs shut it off and won't start back

Put the old condenser back in and set the points to the gap of 0.025 like they should be set at

 

[Chris napoer]

Yes it ran fine after all parts were put on it for couple hrs shut it off and won't start back

And

Put the old condenser back in and set the points to the gap of 0.025 like they should be set at

I'll give that a try and I'm learning as I go sorry

 

[old]

And

I'll give that a try and I'm learning as I go sorry

Been there done that but I started at around the age of 12 with a lawn mower and moved up to a motorcycle and then cars etc. I rebuilt my first tractor engine at that age of 18 while home on leave from the Navy

 

[used red MN]

Quick question: If the condensor is bad, wouldn't the points be burnt also? Or could a condensor be bad and the points still good?

Tim, for that response I am relying heavily on the hear say of these forums about condenser failures. I believe I have read on here about 3 or 4 times where replacing the condenser has immediately fixed a no start or poor running engine. I have personally only seen one bad condenser in my life and it was years ago on an early 60s Plymouth Belvedere with a 318. It would still run but seemed to only function properly if the engine was running at a high idle or faster. Below that it would cut out and surge. Changed it and the points and it ran fine. So I cannot say if it was actually the condenser that was totally to blame. The points seemed to be opening properly and were contacting and gapped properly. We had to drive out and retrieve the car from the owners farm. We had a push bumper on a pickup. The boss said see if it will start when I push you. The older Torqflites had rear pumps that would build pressure when pushed faster, I think you had to go 10 - 15 mph. It did start but would not start with the starter. Beyond that I have heard of the problem you are suggesting that a bad condenser leads to points that burn and become pitted. I personally have never utilized a condenser tester.

 

[timcasbolt]

Tim, for that response I am relying heavily on the hear say of these forums about condenser failures. I believe I have read on here about 3 or 4 times where replacing the condenser has immediately fixed a no start or poor running engine. I have personally only seen one bad condenser in my life and it was years ago on an early 60s Plymouth Belvedere with a 318. It would still run but seemed to only function properly if the engine was running at a high idle or faster. Below that it would cut out and surge. Changed it and the points and it ran fine. So I cannot say if it was actually the condenser that was totally to blame. The points seemed to be opening properly and were contacting and gapped properly. We had to drive out and retrieve the car from the owners farm. We had a push bumper on a pickup. The boss said see if it will start when I push you. The older Torqflites had rear pumps that would build pressure when pushed faster, I think you had to go 10 - 15 mph. It did start but would not start with the starter. Beyond that I have heard of the problem you are suggesting that a bad condenser leads to points that burn and become pitted. I personally have never utilized a condenser tester.

Ok, thanks. I don't think I'm done learning about condensors. Regarding your automatic transmission, my 1950 Pontiac would start if you rolled it down a hill and pulled the column shifter down to low.

 

[john in la]

Most all feeler gauge sets do not even have a 0.16 size so I take that as a misprint.
You might find a condenser bad out of the box but original poster said tractor ran for a while after he changed the parts. Good condensers usually don’t go bad.
A engine will run with a open condenser all be it the motor might miss it is a grounded condenser that will make a motor not run. That takes away 50% of the condenser is the fault.

I’m thinking him digging around in the distributor might have caused the ground strap or the wire through the side of the distributor to the points to break.

Either way it’s simple testing to find if the primary system is working. Are the points grounded. Do the points have power when open. Does the condenser hold a charge. Does the coil fire when power is supplied and taken away.
If that all checks out move the secondary system.