Old hydrostatic mower

550Doug

Member
Location
Southern Ontario
I have an old 2wd Stiga Park articulating mower with front deck. The transmission is a hydrostatic with a foot pedal that controls the forward speed (pedal front down) and the reverse speed (pedal rear down). The mower will move when tranny is cold but slows down and stops after heating up. Moreover, it will NOT move up any slight incline. I've checked that the oil level is full in the tranny but I'm wondering if this could be a dirt issue. Is there a filter in these transmissions? Or is this a sign for retirement of the mower?
 

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How does the belt from the engine to the pump look ? With out knowing what specific model it is I could not find info about a filter googling it but I know a worn belt is a sign of not pulling when warm.
 
I have an old 2wd Stiga Park articulating mower with front deck. The transmission is a hydrostatic with a foot pedal that controls the forward speed (pedal front down) and the reverse speed (pedal rear down). The mower will move when tranny is cold but slows down and stops after heating up. Moreover, it will NOT move up any slight incline. I've checked that the oil level is full in the tranny but I'm wondering if this could be a dirt issue. Is there a filter in these transmissions? Or is this a sign for retirement of the mower?
.
Not your mower, my dad had a 1990 cub cadet Hydro that did the same the Hydro trans was as simple as simple could get. With the Hydro pump out I could have it apart and back together about as quick as I typed this (no joke not bragging it was that simple) I never could get it to work good. I still have the pump I asked everyone I came across if they knew anything about it.

I could seal the pump after a while It was doing the same the fluid would be on the burnt side. The only logical explanation was the pump was getting air in it and igniting. This model was a belt drive that had always been an issue I brought a new pump put it in and sold that mower.

One day I will find a use for that pump if for nothing more than to power a beer can crusher.
 
I have an old 2wd Stiga Park articulating mower with front deck. The transmission is a hydrostatic with a foot pedal that controls the forward speed (pedal front down) and the reverse speed (pedal rear down). The mower will move when tranny is cold but slows down and stops after heating up. Moreover, it will NOT move up any slight incline. I've checked that the oil level is full in the tranny but I'm wondering if this could be a dirt issue. Is there a filter in these transmissions? Or is this a sign for retirement of the mower?
I was given a Husqvarna with less than 400 hours on it. The guy pulled a heavy trailer with it and the Hydro was shot.
I removed the transaxle, turned it upside down and drained the HST oil from the vent hole.. If it were my John Deere, I would have used the drain plug, replaced the filter and filled it with a gallon of HST oil.
Then I figured out how to siphon the oil from the HST using small plastic tubing..
It took 5 oil changes for the HST to work.
The last oil change, less than a quart of oil, I used 5w20 synthetic blend. Now it is working fine.
Change the HST fluid many times. What do you have to lose?
 

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Not your mower, my dad had a 1990 cub cadet Hydro that did the same the Hydro trans was as simple as simple could get. With the Hydro pump out I could have it apart and back together about as quick as I typed this (no joke not bragging it was that simple) I never could get it to work good. I still have the pump I asked everyone I came across if they knew anything about it.

I could seal the pump after a while It was doing the same the fluid would be on the burnt side. The only logical explanation was the pump was getting air in it and igniting. This model was a belt drive that had always been an issue I brought a new pump put it in and sold that mower.

One day I will find a use for that pump if for nothing more than to power a beer can crusher.
I remember the days when a beer can crusher would have been handy. Now, the 2 cans a month I drink get returned for 20 cents.
 
I was given a Husqvarna with less than 400 hours on it. The guy pulled a heavy trailer with it and the Hydro was shot.
I removed the transaxle, turned it upside down and drained the HST oil from the vent hole.. If it were my John Deere, I would have used the drain plug, replaced the filter and filled it with a gallon of HST oil.
Then I figured out how to siphon the oil from the HST using small plastic tubing..
It took 5 oil changes for the HST to work.
The last oil change, less than a quart of oil, I used 5w20 synthetic blend. Now it is working fine.
Change the HST fluid many times. What do you have to lose?
Changing the fluid would have been my suggestion too. But, I'd jump right to Mobil 1, 5w50. That's on the advice of the maker of JD lawn and garden hydros. Talked to their tech support a few years ago and that was the privately recommended oil. Of course the official recommendation is the JD labeled fluid. But other makers use the same hydro, but with a different oil.
 
Changing the fluid would have been my suggestion too. But, I'd jump right to Mobil 1, 5w50. That's on the advice of the maker of JD lawn and garden hydros. Talked to their tech support a few years ago and that was the privately recommended oil. Of course the official recommendation is the JD labeled fluid. But other makers use the same hydro, but with a different oil.
ken
I recommend trying different oils and see which one works best for you.
JD hst oil didn't work for me.
 
I remember the days when a beer can crusher would have been handy. Now, the 2 cans a month I drink get returned for 20 cents.
No beer cans consumed here other than what gets throwed in the yard. I collect them and what folks give me I just sold a years worth 332 lbs. Its just something I like to do. I would not have sold them till the price got up but I was running out of space to store them.
 
ken
I recommend trying different oils and see which one works best for you.
JD hst oil didn't work for me.
One could do that, but I'm nearly positive that 5w50 Mobil One will work. So, I'd try that first on every one, when I can find it. Kinda hard to find in stock. But can order it at full price, never any sales on stuff I order.

JD hydro oil is not a multi-weight so it's a compromise between good performance when hot and slow warmup when cold. At least that's the way it works for me. The 5w50 is good on both extremes and the full synthetic won't break down as quickly in a really hot environment.
 
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