What would you do??

[Masseyharrisnut]

Working on my regular MF 95 tonight and building a hammer strap for the draw bar to get it up to the 18 inch height we are allowed in the vintage tractor pulls. Would you drill and bolt it to the draw bar or weld it all together??? No plans on ever needing to take it off.

 

[gregm]

I would drill and bolt it. For me I trust a bolt over my welds which if they failed at a pull there goes the night/weekend at least with a bolt it is a quick fix, and you may be able to salvage some of the pull if you pull more than once at an event. I also like adjustability, rules and practices change in the pulling world. Who knows you may change tires some day for whatever reason and end up changing ride height. I know some serious pullers that change tire pressure with every track, which changes drawbar height. Maybe the drawbar height requirement itself will change someday, who knows.

 

[rustred]

I would weld it. Weld a bead on each side before u get too carried away. Remember too high is no good either as it will cause the front end to lift off the ground. Tryed that on my w4 and had to bring it down a couple inches so it work good. A weld is stronger than a bolt which you would need 2 3/4 inch grade 8 bolts. Can’t really see the length of them blocks either. Looks like u raised it up 4 inches. So run a bead on each side. Then if it needs to be lowered just use a zip cut disc and cut the weld. And if it’s bolted I would still run some bead on each side about an inch to prevent movement.

 

[rustred]

And yes tire pressure will change draw bar hight. You can go one inch either way quite easily so pick your average psi. Hard track more psi soft track less psi. I find 9-11 lbs is my range. Back to the draw bar thing , when your front comes up u loose your draw bar height. Plus I would think you would be in class 5. 8500-10,000 lbs plus fluid or dry tires is another thing to figure out.

 

[paul]

Would the heat mess up the drawbar, take out the temper or change the metal so that it will bend?

I would much rather bolt it.

 

[caterpillar guy]

I think you have a couple problems looking at it and at what is on a couple drawbars we have. The blocks are to short to bolt well and welding can cause things to either allow it to bend from temper changes or get brittle from the same thing hardening from the weld. I know the hammer straps on the ones we have are bolted on with 2 bolts in the 3/4 or 1inch size. I would have to go over to the tractors at my brothers place to measure them. those are about 6-8 inches long and only have one block between the drawbar and the strap this is on a 7140 Magnum. 200 HP tractor. I tried a single bolt one 40 years ago to plow with and it would work loose from the side pull turning with the plow on an 806 back in the 80's so just went to a bolt through thew tongue with a clevis. Don't use that set up anymore so just use the clevis and bolt on the 1466 if I plow now days.

 

[Tim in New York]

I made one for my W-4, not for pulling but for pulling firewood wagons, as the stock hitch was really low to the ground. Works fine and comes off in 30 seconds if I need to. Use grade 8 bolts for sure.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

I would think lifting the front wheels is exactly what you DO want in a tractor pull. The entire weight of the tractor plus the downward pull from the sled is on the rear axles. I thought that's why they have specific drawbar rules; too steep of an angle at the chain can take weight off the sled.

 

[Gary Mitchell]

Working on my regular MF 95 tonight and building a hammer strap for the draw bar to get it up to the 18 inch height we are allowed in the vintage tractor pulls. Would you drill and bolt it to the draw bar or weld it all together??? No plans on ever needing to take it off.

I would bolt it and be able to washer it up or down as needed to stay on the money.
gm

 

[Masseyharrisnut]

I would drill and bolt it. For me I trust a bolt over my welds which if they failed at a pull there goes the night/weekend at least with a bolt it is a quick fix, and you may be able to salvage some of the pull if you pull more than once at an event. I also like adjustability, rules and practices change in the pulling world. Who knows you may change tires some day for whatever reason and end up changing ride height. I know some serious pullers that change tire pressure with every track, which changes drawbar height. Maybe the drawbar height requirement itself will change someday, who knows.

All good information. Thank you. My welding ability’s are not that trustworthy either. Leaning towards drilling/bolting which will take much longer but better I think.

 

[Masseyharrisnut]

And yes tire pressure will change draw bar hight. You can go one inch either way quite easily so pick your average psi. Hard track more psi soft track less psi. I find 9-11 lbs is my range. Back to the draw bar thing , when your front comes up u loose your draw bar height. Plus I would think you would be in class 5. 8500-10,000 lbs plus fluid or dry tires is another thing to figure out.

Hi rustred. This old 95 weighs in at 8030 pounds with me on it so it’s in class 4. The blocks under the top strap are 5 inches long so that should give me enough room to drill and bolt. I do still think welding would be okay. I would probably get our local pro welder to do it if I go that way. Thanks for your input. No fluid.

 

[Masseyharrisnut]

Would the heat mess up the drawbar, take out the temper or change the metal so that it will bend?

I would much rather bolt it.

That is possible Paul. Hadn’t thought of that. Thanks.

 

[Masseyharrisnut]

I think you have a couple problems looking at it and at what is on a couple drawbars we have. The blocks are to short to bolt well and welding can cause things to either allow it to bend from temper changes or get brittle from the same thing hardening from the weld. I know the hammer straps on the ones we have are bolted on with 2 bolts in the 3/4 or 1inch size. I would have to go over to the tractors at my brothers place to measure them. those are about 6-8 inches long and only have one block between the drawbar and the strap this is on a 7140 Magnum. 200 HP tractor. I tried a single bolt one 40 years ago to plow with and it would work loose from the side pull turning with the plow on an 806 back in the 80's so just went to a bolt through thew tongue with a clevis. Don't use that set up anymore so just use the clevis and bolt on the 1466 if I plow now days.

The blocks are 5 inches long and the top bar is longer of course. The flat bar steel is one inch thick as is the drawbar. Only dealing with mid 60s horsepower so in my mind that should be enough length for bolting. Two 3/4 inch bolts will be used. I am concerned with all that heat affecting the steel. Thanks for your input.

 

[Masseyharrisnut]

I would think lifting the front wheels is exactly what you DO want in a tractor pull. The entire weight of the tractor plus the downward pull from the sled is on the rear axles. I thought that's why they have specific drawbar rules; too steep of an angle at the chain can take weight off the sled.

Plus it looks cool as well. At least I think it does. Thanks.

 

[rustred]

Hi rustred. This old 95 weighs in at 8030 pounds with me on it so it’s in class 4. The blocks under the top strap are 5 inches long so that should give me enough room to drill and bolt. I do still think welding would be okay. I would probably get our local pro welder to do it if I go that way. Thanks for your input. No fluid.

your gonna have fun drilling that drawbar, that is hard steel. might need the machine shop to do that also. this what i would do is weld the first one or two to the drawbar, which is why you need an experienced welder not to crystallize it with too much heat. then drill the others and have the bolts screw into those two lower ones. can be machine shop work also. that way if you find its too high you can just remove one or 2 as necessary. of course you will need different length bolts also. have 2 bolts across from each other at the front , with one bolt in the middle rearward. cause you are pulling off that hammer strap alone not like pulling an implement with a pin through both. but your gonna power out before you break them 3/4 inch bolts. plus your good to add another set of rear weights to get her up to 8500 lbs. and eat a big breakfast!

 

[TN 2N]

I would bolt it. Your last statement of "No plans on ever needing to take it off." If it were mine, some unexpected reason would appear within a month where I would need to take it off!

 

[rustred]

I would think lifting the front wheels is exactly what you DO want in a tractor pull. The entire weight of the tractor plus the downward pull from the sled is on the rear axles. I thought that's why they have specific drawbar rules; too steep of an angle at the chain can take weight off the sled.

that is the whole idea is to take weight off the front off the sled while holding your draft the same. soon as your front end comes off the ground u lost your draft as it lowers the drawbar. and also no steering and the tractor goes where it wants. you want the tractor at very best so the front wheel are light on the ground. and to get the front wheels off the ground with these old internationals like the 660 and 650 you are hooked up pretty good.

 

[showcrop]

I would think lifting the front wheels is exactly what you DO want in a tractor pull. The entire weight of the tractor plus the downward pull from the sled is on the rear axles. I thought that's why they have specific drawbar rules; too steep of an angle at the chain can take weight off the sled.

Nope, what you want is for it to appear that the tires are still on the ground but at 1/16th of an inch before where you spin out, they finally come 1/16th of an inch off the ground.

 

[Masseyharrisnut]

I would think lifting the front wheels is exactly what you DO want in a tractor pull. The entire weight of the tractor plus the downward pull from the sled is on the rear axles. I thought that's why they have specific drawbar rules; too steep of an angle at the chain can take weight off the sled.

your gonna have fun drilling that drawbar, that is hard steel. might need the machine shop to do that also. this what i would do is weld the first one or two to the drawbar, which is why you need an experienced welder not to crystallize it with too much heat. then drill the others and have the bolts screw into those two lower ones. can be machine shop work also. that way if you find its too high you can just remove one or 2 as necessary. of course you will need different length bolts also. have 2 bolts across from each other at the front , with one bolt in the middle rearward. cause you are pulling off that hammer strap alone not like pulling an implement with a pin through both. but your gonna power out before you break them 3/4 inch bolts. plus your good to add another set of rear weights to get her up to 8500 lbs. and eat a big breakfast!

Yep. Two cheese burgers away from a higher class.

 

[rustred]

Nope, what you want is for it to appear that the tires are still on the ground but at 1/16th of an inch before where you spin out, they finally come 1/16th of an inch off the ground.

ya ok i will will watch how you demonstrate that.