Case magnetos

[JOCCO]

Is there a good place to get parts for them? I am finding nothing on the computer. I can get a coil rewound, but I don't have a core piece for them to do it. Also need points????

My understanding is that parts are hard to get. Check on ebay they pop up. I heard someone was remaking some of the parts, probably simple stuff.

 

[CasevsDeere]

You can buy parts ones on eBay. That is what I do. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't, if they don't you've got plenty of parts to keep yours going.

 

[teddy52food]

My magneto guy told me he can install a Fairbanks coil in a Case mag for $50. Lynn Borgers Howard SD.

I can install one too but I don't get the spark I am satisfied with.

 

[mEl]

Our mag discussion got the best of me so today I put a Fairbanks coil into a Case mag body. I sawed all the upright pieces off where the old coil ends pressed in and carefully filed them flat so the metal ends of the Fairbanks coil could sit flat, I drilled and tapped the mag to put clampdown screws to hold the Coil in place and made little L brackets to clamp the coil in place, I replaced the contact on a set of points that had a contact missing and put it all together, I will post pics when I can figure out how to unzip them. The Fairbanks coil has at least 1/2 inch of good fat spark. I would feel very comfortable putting this mag in service. I had a video of it running in the vice but strangely the camera would not record the spark without the spark cutting in and out even when the mag was producing smooth clean spark. I was using the small 20MFD capacitor someone had earlier installed but could have easily installed either the original flat can type, the later green round with two leads or the International Mag condenser but I did not have clamps for the round ones. the metal clamps for the round condensers work perfectly on the international round condensers.

 

[teddy52food]

Our mag discussion got the best of me so today I put a Fairbanks coil into a Case mag body. I sawed all the upright pieces off where the old coil ends pressed in and carefully filed them flat so the metal ends of the Fairbanks coil could sit flat, I drilled and tapped the mag to put clampdown screws to hold the Coil in place and made little L brackets to clamp the coil in place, I replaced the contact on a set of points that had a contact missing and put it all together, I will post pics when I can figure out how to unzip them. The Fairbanks coil has at least 1/2 inch of good fat spark. I would feel very comfortable putting this mag in service. I had a video of it running in the vice but strangely the camera would not record the spark without the spark cutting in and out even when the mag was producing smooth clean spark. I was using the small 20MFD capacitor someone had earlier installed but could have easily installed either the original flat can type, the later green round with two leads or the International Mag condenser but I did not have clamps for the round ones. the metal clamps for the round condensers work perfectly on the international round condensers.

I was working on a mag where the coil is held in with wedges. After 3 tries , the 3rd coil produced a good spark also. I was thinking the same about the meshing core pieces. I don't have a milling machine but was going to try a milling cutter in the drill press. Working on a different mag today I found that a B&S condenser with the point on the end works good by cutting the pigtail off the bad condenser & soldering the wire in the hole where the wire goes on the B&S.

 

[wore out]

Our mag discussion got the best of me so today I put a Fairbanks coil into a Case mag body. I sawed all the upright pieces off where the old coil ends pressed in and carefully filed them flat so the metal ends of the Fairbanks coil could sit flat, I drilled and tapped the mag to put clampdown screws to hold the Coil in place and made little L brackets to clamp the coil in place, I replaced the contact on a set of points that had a contact missing and put it all together, I will post pics when I can figure out how to unzip them. The Fairbanks coil has at least 1/2 inch of good fat spark. I would feel very comfortable putting this mag in service. I had a video of it running in the vice but strangely the camera would not record the spark without the spark cutting in and out even when the mag was producing smooth clean spark. I was using the small 20MFD capacitor someone had earlier installed but could have easily installed either the original flat can type, the later green round with two leads or the International Mag condenser but I did not have clamps for the round ones. the metal clamps for the round condensers work perfectly on the international round condensers.

"I was using the small 20MFD capacitor"

IMHO, you are "off" by decimal point or two on the value of the capacitor.

 

[mEl]

Worked up a mag today with a Fairbanks coil because of the discussion previously for the coil to sit flat. The mag parts where the old coil pressed in had to be cut off and filed flat to have a place for the FM coil to sit, I drill and tapped the mag for screws to hold the coil down and made little clips for on the screws to increase clamping area. used a small 22 MFD condenser because that is what I had. Put a new contact on a set of Case points I had there, installed and gapped, 1/2-5/8 nice fat blue spark. A lot of work but Fairbanks coils will always be available, let me know what you think!

 

[CasevsDeere]

Worked up a mag today with a Fairbanks coil because of the discussion previously for the coil to sit flat. The mag parts where the old coil pressed in had to be cut off and filed flat to have a place for the FM coil to sit, I drill and tapped the mag for screws to hold the coil down and made little clips for on the screws to increase clamping area. used a small 22 MFD condenser because that is what I had. Put a new contact on a set of Case points I had there, installed and gapped, 1/2-5/8 nice fat blue spark. A lot of work but Fairbanks coils will always be available, let me know what you think!

Was that a 4JMA or a Model 41?

 

[mEl]

CaseYtmag that a 4JMA or a Model 41?CVD, I believe it is the earlier one, the later the coils are held in by set screws. Maybe some one can clear that up for me.

 

[CasevsDeere]

CaseYtmag that a 4JMA or a Model 41?CVD, I believe it is the earlier one, the later the coils are held in by set screws. Maybe some one can clear that up for me.

removable top is the 4J. Got one that was said to be dead for parts but would be interested in doing what you have done to this one if the coil is actually toast. You can build a magnet charger pretty simple to "recharge" them if the magnets are weak. I prefer a mag 2:1 over a distributor.

 

[teddy52food]

CaseYtmag that a 4JMA or a Model 41?CVD, I believe it is the earlier one, the later the coils are held in by set screws. Maybe some one can clear that up for me.

Looks good. As of now I am out of those FM coils. It is a good feeling when you try something differant & it works good, isn't it? Seems like I do a lot of that out of nessesity.

 

[mEl]

Looks good. As of now I am out of those FM coils. It is a good feeling when you try something differant & it works good, isn't it? Seems like I do a lot of that out of nessesity.

I enjoy it much, I think outside the box and I’m considering trying to find a solid state trigger to fire a mag, they make them for chainsaws and such and have them for Briggs and others that have external points. The 41 is the one that you can clamp the F M coil in the standard way, with set screws. I like mags also but for max performance the mags do not give enough advance in the impulse, a DC with good fuel likes a lot of advance by my dyno testing.

 

[teddy52food]

I enjoy it much, I think outside the box and I’m considering trying to find a solid state trigger to fire a mag, they make them for chainsaws and such and have them for Briggs and others that have external points. The 41 is the one that you can clamp the F M coil in the standard way, with set screws. I like mags also but for max performance the mags do not give enough advance in the impulse, a DC with good fuel likes a lot of advance by my dyno testing.

I wonder if the magnet rotor would overcome the small trigger magnet? What is in a magnetic field is matter in motion. Smallest particle of matter moving at C and spinning at C. Thus E=MC2. It cannot be shielded as it penetrates everything. Maybe a copper plate would absorb enough, maybe not? All you can do is try it & see what may happen.

 

[mEl]

The modules used in chainsaws have to be triggered by voltage level somehow as they just screw fast to the engine body and have a single wire attached via a slide on terminal. The points and condenser are eliminated. I have a module for the old cast iron Briggs that I will experiment with. Since you seem to care what I'm doing I will keep you posted. As I stated in an earlier post I do have some new old stock Case mag parts, condensers, impulse parts, a couple new rotors and miscellaneous hardware parts. I finished the mag after lunch and tested it with the cap on, excellent spark on all holes. I am going to remove the Delco Distributor now on my 53 and install this mag for originality, at least the right hand side of the engine will feel original but I doubt I will give up my Marvel on the other side, but there is a page in the DC parts book with the Marvel carb and parts shown so I will not feel bad. OH and by the way, testing the mag set off the warning indicator in my pacemaker, the hospital did a remote read of my device and found voltage spikes on the leads to my heart which set off a feature for sensing irregularities and shut down the auto Defib feature, so I didn't get a shock. She said I should not be doing such things with high voltage, I told her that's what I do, we left it at that! If I'm going to go out at least it will be doing the things I enjoy!

 

[CasevsDeere]

The modules used in chainsaws have to be triggered by voltage level somehow as they just screw fast to the engine body and have a single wire attached via a slide on terminal. The points and condenser are eliminated. I have a module for the old cast iron Briggs that I will experiment with. Since you seem to care what I'm doing I will keep you posted. As I stated in an earlier post I do have some new old stock Case mag parts, condensers, impulse parts, a couple new rotors and miscellaneous hardware parts. I finished the mag after lunch and tested it with the cap on, excellent spark on all holes. I am going to remove the Delco Distributor now on my 53 and install this mag for originality, at least the right hand side of the engine will feel original but I doubt I will give up my Marvel on the other side, but there is a page in the DC parts book with the Marvel carb and parts shown so I will not feel bad. OH and by the way, testing the mag set off the warning indicator in my pacemaker, the hospital did a remote read of my device and found voltage spikes on the leads to my heart which set off a feature for sensing irregularities and shut down the auto Defib feature, so I didn't get a shock. She said I should not be doing such things with high voltage, I told her that's what I do, we left it at that! If I'm going to go out at least it will be doing the things I enjoy!

I would think that using a module on one of these would be fairly straight forward. The module should just sense the voltage signal from the mag, then dwell, then break the primary circuit, just like the points would just without the moving parts.

 

[mEl]

My thoughts exactly, I have a Fairbanks shell and some odd parts that I can stick together for test purposes, The only thing I do not know is how many volts it takes to trigger the module to open the primary side so the collapse of the primary magnetic field to induce current into the secondary windings so high tension spark can be produced. the main problem when trying this is that you would almost need a scope to see the maximum voltage.

 

[teddy52food]

The modules used in chainsaws have to be triggered by voltage level somehow as they just screw fast to the engine body and have a single wire attached via a slide on terminal. The points and condenser are eliminated. I have a module for the old cast iron Briggs that I will experiment with. Since you seem to care what I'm doing I will keep you posted. As I stated in an earlier post I do have some new old stock Case mag parts, condensers, impulse parts, a couple new rotors and miscellaneous hardware parts. I finished the mag after lunch and tested it with the cap on, excellent spark on all holes. I am going to remove the Delco Distributor now on my 53 and install this mag for originality, at least the right hand side of the engine will feel original but I doubt I will give up my Marvel on the other side, but there is a page in the DC parts book with the Marvel carb and parts shown so I will not feel bad. OH and by the way, testing the mag set off the warning indicator in my pacemaker, the hospital did a remote read of my device and found voltage spikes on the leads to my heart which set off a feature for sensing irregularities and shut down the auto Defib feature, so I didn't get a shock. She said I should not be doing such things with high voltage, I told her that's what I do, we left it at that! If I'm going to go out at least it will be doing the things I enjoy!

I may be interested in those parts if you care to part with them. On a chainsaw the magnet in the flywheel triggers the pickup coil as it gets close. But what will do that in a mag? Maybe mount it next to the core??

 

[mEl]

Teddy, the module has a Zener Diode which closes at a specific voltage level and has two transistors a couple resistors and a capacitor, if you are computer-oriented look up ATOM ignition modules and if you hit the right page it shows how to make one. Looking at their info it looks as if they have been discontinued for many years. I understand where you are coming from on the magnetic triggering but this works by sensing primary voltage and cutting off and opening the primary circuit so is not dependent on a trigger.

 

[teddy52food]

Thanks for the info. I am 81 & still learning! I wonder how that would work on a Newman motor?

 

[mEl]

Thanks for the info. I am 81 & still learning! I wonder how that would work on a Newman motor?

Teddy, dug through my stuff and found a module someone gave me years ago, slappped a parts mag to test together, surprise!!!