Nuts For Horse Drawn Wagon

I'm rebuilding my old 7' by 12' hay wagon. I use 1/4' GALVANIZED bolts. There is LOTS of movement/vibration with a wagon. The lock washers often do not hold the nut. I can buy stainless steel, but they are expensive and don't fit well onto the galvanized bolts. I cannot find GALVANIZED nylon insert/stop nuts. I've searched Amazon. Any ideas? Thanks, kelly
 
Galvanized bolts need Galvanized nuts. Galvanized nuts are slightly larger in the threads to allow for the galvanizing inside the band on the bolts. Regular but will be right and may seize on galvanized bolts and regular bolts will be loose in ga!vanished nuts. I expect you are not finding galvanized nylon locknuts as the nylon doesn't play well with a hot dip in zinc. How about using the regular galvanized nuts with a drop of blue thread locker?
 
cannot find GALVANIZED nylon insert/stop nuts.

Can't imagine you will as the hot dip galvanizing process would melt the nylon.
You might be able to find upset thread lock nuts that are HDG.

Look at McMaster-Carr for nuts. They have some serrated flange lock nuts that are zinc flake coated. But they might not fit well due to allowances for HDG.

You might hit the area where the nut will end up being with a center punch to the bolt threads. Creating an upset thread to lock the nut.

Or use these:
 
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I'm rebuilding my old 7' by 12' hay wagon. I use 1/4' GALVANIZED bolts. There is LOTS of movement/vibration with a wagon. The lock washers often do not hold the nut. I can buy stainless steel, but they are expensive and don't fit well onto the galvanized bolts. I cannot find GALVANIZED nylon insert/stop nuts. I've searched Amazon. Any ideas? Thanks, kelly
Take a chisel and mash the threads on bolt. Not the end thread of course so you can start nut.
 
AHA! Thanks Jim.ME, you always seem to come up with help for me. I think the thread locker is the answer. I appreciate the ideas of chisels on threads and center punch but those just don't seem to be easy. Thanks tho to all! kelly
 
In the past I have put 1/4" nuts in a vice or press to distort the nut. The nut will go on hard like a lock nut and comes off equally as hard.
 
AHA! Thanks Jim.ME, you always seem to come up with help for me. I think the thread locker is the answer. I appreciate the ideas of chisels on threads and center punch but those just don't seem to be easy. Thanks tho to all! kelly
I use a dab of silicone gasket maker to keep non-critical stuff like that from shaking apart.

It's tough enough to resist letting go and letting stuff shake apart, but offers literally NO resistance to moving the parts with a wrench, if further tightening is needed "down the road", or when dis-assembly is needed,
 
Ok, you found a source for metric galvanized nylon locknuts in Australia. I don't see any 1/4" (or other imperial size) offerings which is what he asked for. Have you found available to him a source for those in the US or Canada? I did not say there could not be any, thank you for pointing out the error of my wording, next time I will be clearer on that. In fact, the link below is a place in Oregon that shows 1/4-20 galvanized nylon locknuts for $6.55 each. I stand by my statement that I don't think he is finding them as the hot dip and nylon aren't a good pairing. If it was an easy process, it would seem they would be readily available in stores here. Like most things it can be done. However, is it practical for his purpose? Is a bottle of thread locker and common off the shelf galvanized nuts available to him (or one of the several other suggestions made here) a better answer to his problem than getting metric nuts from Australia? :unsure:

Galvanized nylon lock nuts
 
Ok, you found a source for metric galvanized nylon locknuts in Australia. I don't see any 1/4" (or other imperial size) offerings which is what he asked for. Have you found available to him a source for those in the US or Canada? I did not say there could not be any, thank you for pointing out the error of my wording, next time I will be clearer on that. In fact, the link below is a place in Oregon that shows 1/4-20 galvanized nylon locknuts for $6.55 each. I stand by my statement that I don't think he is finding them as the hot dip and nylon aren't a good pairing. If it was an easy process, it would seem they would be readily available in stores here. Like most things it can be done. However, is it practical for his purpose? Is a bottle of thread locker and common off the shelf galvanized nuts available to him (or one of the several other suggestions made here) a better answer to his problem than getting metric nuts from Australia? :unsure:

Galvanized nylon lock nuts

What about Lowes.

3 for $2.98

 
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Sorry, just because it is a zinc finish it is not the galvanized type nuts he needs to work with galvanized bolts. Yellow zinc coating is not the same as galvanized. It is the same coating as the bright finish zinc plated nuts, with a coloring added and is a bit better in harsh environments. Commonly the color found on grade 8 hardware the threads do not have the clearances to work correctly with galvanized finish hardware. My understanding of the bolts he posted as "GALVANIZED" means he is using the dull gray finish bolts found at most hardware stores. The finish on those is called hot dipped galvanized.

A finishes and plating reference chart
 
AHA! Thanks Jim.ME, you always seem to come up with help for me. I think the thread locker is the answer. I appreciate the ideas of chisels on threads and center punch but those just don't seem to be easy. Thanks tho to all! kelly
After thinking about this over coffee this morning, you might want to look at one of the small fasteners, low strength thread lockers (Loctite and Permatex purple grade). They should hold and would break free easier than the blue grade, if wood shrinkage required tightening. Wore out's silicone suggestion has merit as well.
 
Cross threading is nature's lock nut.

Alternatively, get the bolt tight, then cut the bolt off about 1 thread beyond the nut, and peen it over like a rivet. You can still get it apart if you need to, and the nut won't come loose, except when the wood dries and shrinks.
 
Cross threading is nature's lock nut.

Alternatively, get the bolt tight, then cut the bolt off about 1 thread beyond the nut, and peen it over like a rivet. You can still get it apart if you need to, and the nut won't come loose, except when the wood dries and shrinks.
The cut and peened end will rust unless touched up with some cold galvanize coating or such.
 
The Top-Lock nuts I liked earlier are HDG and are a lock nut.
I do not disagree. He asked primarily about nylon insert stop nuts, as I read it, I may be wrong on that. The top lock nuts are lock nuts but can be more difficult to deal with where carriage bolts are used in wood, which I am guessing he is using, especially if they need to be turned at a later date.
 
I do not disagree. He asked primarily about nylon insert stop nuts, as I read it, I may be wrong on that. The top lock nuts are lock nuts but can be more difficult to deal with where carriage bolts are used in wood, which I am guessing he is using, especially if they need to be turned at a later date.
Yes, and I agree with maybe too aggressive. Especially if the wagon is stored outside. Then the hole under the head rots and the bolt turns in the hole.
This washer might be a good idea:
 

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