Stuck 3 point top link adjustment

KennyH

New User
Good morning. Does anyone have any magic to loosen this part of the top link? I've tried at and acetone mixed, low heat from a propane torch, higher heat with an acetylene torch, melted bees wax onto the threads that are exposed and the ones that are exposed internally. The biggest pipe wrench i have and 1 foot pipe on the end of it. Hasn't moved yet.... Tia Kenny.
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I thought you said you acquired correct 3 point parts for the 3010. That is a 2 cylinder top link which as stated before will likely be the wrong length to work properly on a 3010.

As far as getting that to move, more heat and a bigger wrench.
 
You are not the first nor will you be the last with this problem! Are you using a rosebud torch tip? You need to get it super hot. Some people will throw them into a woodstove for a while! If that doesn't work, try throwing it into a bucket of oil for a few days. Drain oil will do.
 
I thought you said you acquired correct 3 point parts for the 3010. That is a 2 cylinder top link which as stated before will likely be the wrong length to work properly on a 3010.

As far as getting that to move, more heat and a bigger wrench.
Well I'm hoping to make this one work. If not I'll sell it to get the.correct one. Oh, I didn't get a top link as the guy i bought the other parts from wasn't selling any.
 
Is this for a 3010, 4020? It's my son in laws (it's also stuck on the hook end).
 

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A long time ago dad and I put new blades on the disc. We needed to adjust the tongue to level it ,and the screw was stuck. Heat,hammer ,magic oil etc. I asked dad if he had tried brake fluid ,and he asked who told me to use that. I told him he did! He dropped me at church and picked me up an hour later, and he showed me the screw was as loose as the day it was made.
 
Well I'm hoping to make this one work. If not I'll sell it to get the.correct one. Oh, I didn't get a top link as the guy i bought the other parts from wasn't selling any.
I've had good luck using a wood fire. Using firewood or scrap lumber, build a reasonably good sized fire and throw it in the middle. Let it stay in for 10 or 20 minutes and remove and throw in a tub of water. Bang on it with a bfh and it should come loose. If not, rinse and repeat....it will get loose soon!
hths
 
You are not the first nor will you be the last with this problem! Are you using a rosebud torch tip? You need to get it super hot. Some people will throw them into a woodstove for a while! If that doesn't work, try throwing it into a bucket of oil for a few days. Drain oil will do.
Some folks swear by dropping such parts in a bucket of water, water rusted it stuck and water and time will often break such things loose.
 
Some folks swear by dropping such parts in a bucket of water, water rusted it stuck and water and time will often break such things loose.
I have heard the same thing about immersing them in water. The theory I heard is that fine dirt settles into the threads and locks them up. Soaking moisture into the dirt supposedly frees them. Not sure what will happen now that it has been heated to a relatively high temperature. One thing about it, you’re not out much by trying. A couple weeks is probably a good starting point.
 
Is this for a 3010, 4020? It's my son in laws (it's also stuck on the hook end).
Is this for a 3010, 4020? It's my son in laws (it's also stuck on the hook end).
Center link for 3010 should have a 3/4 hole for attaching pin where it mounts to tractor. 4020 has 7/8 hole for attaching pin. I couldn't locate those casting # in JD parts catalogs that I researched. I agree put centerlink in a bonfire then after fire burns out & it cools attempt to rotate parts.
 
The biggest pipe wrench i have and 1 foot pipe on the end
Unless your “big pipe wrench” has a 2 foot handle on it you should be using 3 or 4 foot pipe on it. Total leverage should be at least 3 foot. If you don’t have a vise mounted good enough to hold it against that kind of force you will likely never get it loose. Unless you’re doing this on the ground or floor with a big bar through the end to keep it from turning. May have to park a vehicle or tractor tire on the bar to hold it down.
 
Unless your “big pipe wrench” has a 2 foot handle on it you should be using 3 or 4 foot pipe on it. Total leverage should be at least 3 foot. If you don’t have a vise mounted good enough to hold it against that kind of force you will likely never get it loose. Unless you’re doing this on the ground or floor with a big bar through the end to keep it from turning. May have to park a vehicle or tractor tire on the bar to hold it down.
Yep, time and time again it has been proven that there is no substitute for leverage.
 
I see a jar of ant-seize on the bench. While that is a good idea, it should have been done the LAST time it was moved. An ounce of prevention...

At least you will be ahead of the game the next time it needs adjustment. I have a 36" aluminum pipe wrench hanging on my hydraulic press for just such instances, and access to a 60" in a pinch. As stated above, the leverage in conjunction with the heat should set you free.
 
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