Pole shed tips

[redtom]

Mine is 40 x 64. Why go 60 when you can go 64 with the same number of poles? Increments of 8ft for poles makes 6 poles on end and 9 down the sides for 64ft. 60ft still means 9 poles... seven at 8ft spaces and another pole set 4ft to make 60ft. I went 14 high for big equipment. I really wanted 16 but didn't have the cash at the time. 14 gave me enough for 8 ft high shop with a loft. You have stoop up there but it is usable. After seeing today's treated lumber I will never put a wooden pole in the ground again. I would use those concrete posts you set and put a pole on top. If I did it over I would stick build. Makes it easier to finish inside. I've never seen the wall 2x4 set between the pole before. I have 1ft over hang and gutters also. Lots of opinions out there.this is a treated porch post from my house i put in 28 years ago. I had to jack up porch pull them all and pour concrete posts.

 

[Bruce from Can.]

I built a 40’x60’ pole barn in 1990. I dug the holes 5’ deep, and poured one foot of concrete into the bottom of each hole. This gives you a good base, and it’s easy to aline poles when they are sitting on the flat smooth level surface of the concrete into the bottom of the holes. I didn’t level the ground but we built the building true and square, the west wall was 12’ high and the east wall was 14’. This did allow for natural drainage within the building.
2x6 strapping on the walls on 4’ centers, top plate was 2”x10”. Walls had diagonal braces and as you can see the 6x6 pressure treated posts also had 2x6 angel braces that fastened into the top plate. Trusses were 4/12 pitch on 4’ centers. Roof strapping was 2x4 on 18” center. Diagonal 12’ 2x4 braces were put in side the trusses to add stability. Roof was sheeted with galvalum, 28 gauge. Walls got 30 gauge coloured steel. This building is still standing 34 years later, and is still straight and true . I hired one man, my 68 year old WW2 infantry Veteran neighbor to help, he was the carpenter brains, and my brothers would come help set trusses and strap roof, and fastened down roof sheeting. Total cost of this building in 1990 was $10,000.00 including the labour for my neighbor with the knowledge. I sold this farm to one of my brothers in 2004, and he has it as an equipment storage building.

 

[john in la]

No one can tell you how to build a pole barn without knowing your area soil type and holding capacity.
With the weight of the building and soil type the size of the weight bearing concrete plug in the bottom of the post hole can be figured.
Once the concrete plug is installed you put the post in the hole and fill with the soil you took out the hole.
A post hole filled with gravel in hard clay becomes a pond so do not do that.

Next we need to know your area wind and snow load to figure your purlin size based on post spacing.
I have seen post spacing from 8 to 16 feet.
So obviously you can not use purlin sized for 8 foot spaced post on 16 foot spaced post especially if your trusses are 16 feet apart.

So bottom line getting advise here does you no good.
As suggested by others call your county building permit office and get their advise.

 

[Not db4600]

I’m building 40x60x12 high pole shed.
Wondering a few things.
For strapping on the walls I got quoted 2x6x16’ wall strapping.
Will 2x4’s work for wall strapping or stick with the 2x6?

Also looking for how you set your poles. Just tamp with gravel or mix in some concrete?

It doesn’t seem anyone has asked about layout spacing. The old standard was 2x4 on 24” center. There are many builders doing different. This is not bad. Some are going 2x6 on 32” or 36” centers. Some use laminated post others used milled posts. They all work.

I do like 2x6 corner bracing and knee braces post to rafters.

All things for consideration to weigh against cost.

 

[jwal10]

I never build pole, I pour footer and 2' above ground (floor) level stem wall. Treated sill and 2"x6" studs 16" apart, so double plate top and bottom. Trusses 2' apart, 2' overhang. Blocking in studs at 8' and 12', if 16' walls. 4' and 8' if shorter. 2' metal siding put on horizontal, screwed directly to studs, 2' sheet of white plastic matched at top, it seems to last longer than clear. I like 4' same color as trim, rest body color. Easy to insulate walls and ceiling. I then use 5/8" plywood 8' high, 1/2" 4' above that, on the inside. I started using 2' wide 4V roofing tin, then high rib. Livestock barns get at least 4' of 3/4" plywood inside. If I built pole barn, I would fasten concrete deck blocks with brackets to bottom end of 2"x6" or 8" treated, built up, shortest 2' above ground (floor) level, others 4' and 6' above that one. Back fill holes with 3/4" open crushed for drainage in holes. Crushed rock all around building at least 2', sloped away. IF I ever used concrete, sloped away from post 4" above ground level poured against outside treated skirt board or a concrete floor....James

 

[hellothere123]

I’m using power poles. 4’ on centre. Looked into using 2x4 but it’s only $400 difference to go with 2x6. So I’ll use 2x6 for strapping.
I’ll slope the area for runoff away from the shed.
Going to sink the poles 6’ deep and just use gravel.
It’s an exciting project so it’s interesting to hear all the different ways to go about it. Even if I don’t use all the ideas.

 

[C. Amick]

I’m building 40x60x12 high pole shed.
Wondering a few things.
For strapping on the walls I got quoted 2x6x16’ wall strapping.
Will 2x4’s work for wall strapping or stick with the 2x6?

Also looking for how you set your poles. Just tamp with gravel or mix in some concrete?

I had a 40x60x12 built a year ago. They used 2x6 strapping. I believe they poured dry ready mix in the bottom of the holes to help keep the posts from settling. I have 10x10 doors. There aren't any gutters on the building and the soil along the wall on the inside of the building gets wet when it rains. I don't know if gutters would help. I think a lot of the rain is blown against the side of the building and runs down.

 

[hellothere123]

I’m looking at renting a zoom boom so I can basically assemble the trusses and strapping and tin on the ground. Then use the zoom boom to lift it all in place.
Wondering if anyone has done it this way and if it’s the way to go or not.

 

[redtom]

I’m looking at renting a zoom boom so I can basically assemble the trusses and strapping and tin on the ground. Then use the zoom boom to lift it all in place.
Wondering if anyone has done it this way and if it’s the way to go or not.

So, you're going to build the whole roof assembly as a unit and lift it up and set it on the walls? That's different.

I made a boom with a piece of scrap channel iron and put it in the bucket of the loader on my farm tractor. It did 90% of the lifting of each truss but I still had a few guys to walk each truss down .

 

[Rich'sToys]

When we built ours, I had them put in scissor trusses to get a little extra headroom in the center.
Also, the ridge cap is a sky light.

 

[showcrop]

I recommend you hire the job done, Last farmer who tried to build a pole barn fell and broth both legs.
As for how to build the barn, consult your building inspector.
If you don't have an inspector ask different contractors in your area what they recommend,
My inspector required my poles to be 6x6 and 54 inches below grade. He measured each hole
Each area of the country has different codes.
It took an Amish crew of 7 two days to build my 30x40x14 pole barn.
They have the right equipment to get the job done.
My contractor put concrete donuts under my poles.
Wood is not perfect and they had to bend the poles to get them perfectly aligned.
No concrete around the poles. The best thing is water to set the poles.
I got a good rain after the building was finished and the water settled the dirt around the poles.
After construction, I had a 6 inch floor put down and it supported the pole on 3 sides.
The poles aren't going anywhere

In some municipalities they are insistent that they have a building inspector, NOT a building instructor.

 

[TerryfromSWIowa]

I’m using power poles. 4’ on centre. Looked into using 2x4 but it’s only $400 difference to go with 2x6. So I’ll use 2x6 for strapping.
I’ll slope the area for runoff away from the shed.
Going to sink the poles 6’ deep and just use gravel.
It’s an exciting project so it’s interesting to hear all the different ways to go about it. Even if I don’t use all the ideas.

Lots of shimming on power poles to get walls plumb.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Or, if you are like me and on a very very tight budget, put gutters and positive drainage away on no overhang. My barns were built in 86 and 02 with no issues so far. Both mine were backfilled with concrete. My neighbors new barn, the poles were set on cement discs and back filled with existing material. If I was doing it, I would have ordered some crushed limestone for backfill.View attachment 104494

We get heavy snow and the gutters would get torn off the first time the snow slides.

 

[Blackhole49]

We get heavy snow and the gutters would get torn off the first time the snow slides.

I definitely don't get the snow you do, but in 40 years (31 with shingles and 9 with steel) I've never had snow take gutters off.

 

[bc]

I'd call that being set ON concrete. That's to prevent frost heaving, even though the posts are 4' in the ground. IF you backfill the hole with concrete around the pole, the pole rots off in the concrete and it's impossible to replace.

When Morton built the first pole barn here they brought in a ready mix truck and poured into each hole. The company that built the second building dumped bags of dry Sakrete down each hole and tamped it level. Both buildings are still standing with no signs of rot on the poles.

One thing I can NOT recommend, is no overhang. Get at least a minimum overhang to get the rain water away from the building so you're not rotting out side doors and the skirt boards.

I use cardboard tubes set in the ground with rebar inside with the post attachment connected to the rebar so it will never pull out. Have open hole below the tube. Easy to get level. Last deck supports done were 3' deep and past frost depth and then just cut the tube off in 1 foot pieces supported by 2x4s. Looks the same and saves on tubes.

In our clay soil, for a fence post or something I backfill a hole with sand. It moves in and out with the clay during freeze thaw and expansion and contraction when wet or dry. Mound up or add sand when contracted and level drops. Water absorbs away without rotting post. Also buy a gallon of roof or foundation coat and paint each post to ground level. Fill all cracks and the bottom well.

 

[johnnmr]

Not sure what your storage goals are but 12 foot is kinda short for new construction. If you ever want a garage door those need 2 feet of head room above the doorway. There's other styles overhead doors but they get complicated and expensive in a hurry. Our 50 year old shop is 12' to the bottom of the trusses, it's a PITA to remember to fold down the combine bin extensions. To meet our current needs in 2025, I'd like a 14' tall door or more, if you're forward thinking I'd go 16' minimum. Doesn't answer your question directly but I'd say it's important to consider.

 

[paul]

Best is a concrete in the ground, with a strong joint and wood above ground. That costs more and this sounds like a budget build.

A little concrete around the bottom of the pole, some metal ladder deal for the concrete to hold on to, is a good idea. Required here I believe, good idea in any case.

2x4 vs 2x6 will depend on your pole spacing and wood quality. It’s really really hard to get good quality 2x4s, a lot of wind load on those weak poor quality lumber yard 2x4s. Ugh. If you would buy high quality 2x4s they would work fine, but I bet a mid quality 2x6 ends up cheaper.

Your building, make it as flimsy as you want.

Paul

 

[caterpillar guy]

Last building we built was in the 80's and we just set the pole on the holes and backfilled with the dirt from the holes. No cement under or around them. Some were only about 4 foot and some wound up being close to 6-8 feet depending on the amount of fill the building took. Then set the poles about 16 foot with 2x12 Oak and Ash Plates for the rafters to set on. rafters were just a 2x6 Ash or Oak this was 62x62 with 3 alleys through it for freestalls and a mow above it so is 14or 15 foot eaves. Plates had rafters set at 3 foot and a homemade truss on the top in center of 2x6 set across 20 foot. Has been there since the early 80's loaded with round hay right now from the floor to 3 deep in the middle till the roof then less. We put some girts on flat 2x4 and some got put in vertical thus wind protection and also vertical stability of the girts holding the siding. Siding is old steel bill board material. Both big sheds are mad this way only the 40x100 has 80 feet of truss on 5 foot center at 12 foot to the bottom of the plates and the other 20 feet has just rafters of 2x6 with a plate in the middle and reach from eave to peak in 20foot or so long each. Intent was to be able to dump fertilizer in there and load it out with tractor to spread at the time. Wound up with heifer calve on it before we got the rest of the building up since we poured the floor first. As for plumb we just level them as best with power poles and nail it together back then no screws in use by anybody. We also put 5/8 bolts through the poles at plate splices and lap a 6or8 foot plank about the same width as the plates on he inside and a steel plate on the outside to ensure the plates don't come down if the nails break. The steel plate makes it easier to put track up for doors if wanted on it. Then on south side we nailed on about 2 feet for a long overhang at the eaves to help protect cattle from the water off the roof. Never set poles in only the dirt holes. Some of the old poles are now just starting to become a problem where the cement was up around them and open to the weather or at alley openings. For braces we cut a notch about 20 inches below the plate so a plank the width of the pole fits between the plates going to the stubs and sets in the notch this holds the shift endways and then braces from up by the plats down to the bottom close to the ground on each end corner. Like I said they have been built starting in the late 60's to the mid/early 80's with no problems now. All lumber was rough cut from sawmill on logs we hauled in to saw and brought back to build with. that is the reason for the Oak and Elm and Ash lumber was cheap from the woods.

 

[redtom]

 

[bc]

View attachment 104643

Never been a fan of slab on grade. Don't know if they used any sand, gravel, or compaction under the slab. Be cracked and out of level around here in KS after a winter or two. Hope they don't scrimp on everything else to put in expensive posts.