Pole shed tips

[hellothere123]

I’m building 40x60x12 high pole shed.
Wondering a few things.
For strapping on the walls I got quoted 2x6x16’ wall strapping.
Will 2x4’s work for wall strapping or stick with the 2x6?

Also looking for how you set your poles. Just tamp with gravel or mix in some concrete?

 

[Steve in VA]

I’m building 40x60x12 high pole shed.
Wondering a few things.
For strapping on the walls I got quoted 2x6x16’ wall strapping.
Will 2x4’s work for wall strapping or stick with the 2x6?

Also looking for how you set your poles. Just tamp with gravel or mix in some concrete?

Speaking for myself, I used 2x4 since the metal provides most of the structural stability. I set my posts with concrete. Years on everything is fine.
But that's just me.

 

[wh]

Around here in north alabama see them use both. Some go with 2x6 and same number use 2x4 s. Appears that everyone turns either one on its side and fastens between the post Instead of securing them to outside of post. Use 2x4 and maybe add couple extra and use one vertically secured to the strapping between the post. Then again the extra few might offset the savings.

 

[showcrop]

I have seen many posts here about concrete around posts accelerating decay. The key is to have good drainage around the building and clean gravel around the posts so that any moisture runs right away.

 

[jon f mn]

Around here they are required to set the post in concrete. Some use a store bought pad, some pour some in each hole and let it set. For mine they poured a 12" thick pad in each hole. Then just filled with the soil they dug. Mine has 2x6 lumber

 

[moresmoke]

2x4 vs 2x6 depends on the wind load the building will be exposed to. The steel provides the vertical strength, the purlins provide lateral strength.

The poles should sit on a concrete footing, either precast or poured in place. If you place concrete around the pole depends on soil type. In well drained soil I would use gravel or sand or what came out of the hole. In clay soil I would use concrete around the pole as clay is near impossible to tamp back in. Don’t use gravel or sand to back fill in clay as it just creates a porous pocket that holds water.

Don‘t forget to put cross pins or anti uplift blocks on the bottom of the poles.

 

[cjunrau]

I’m building 40x60x12 high pole shed.
Wondering a few things.
For strapping on the walls I got quoted 2x6x16’ wall strapping.
Will 2x4’s work for wall strapping or stick with the 2x6?

Also looking for how you set your poles. Just tamp with gravel or mix in some concrete?

I would use 2X4 as I have never seen 2X6 used here. poles don't get cemented in here. treated lumber till above ground. Usually 3 or 4 2X6 or 2X8 and splice in regular above ground.

 

[560Dennis]

Different soil and freeze depth for your area . I say do ask locall people what recommendations Best practices.
Make sure the landscaping is at least a foot above grade . Seen barns that are not ,and they freeze, heave up can’t move doors to get in from ice . Livestock in ice From flooding .
Check for snow load follow recommendation’s if not they will collapse , don’t want redoing .
i just prefer concrete peers and lag down post supported , don’t like submerge post seen them heaved From poor planning.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Around here they are required to set the post in concrete. Some use a store bought pad, some pour some in each hole and let it set. For mine they poured a 12" thick pad in each hole. Then just filled with the soil they dug. Mine has 2x6 lumber

I'd call that being set ON concrete. That's to prevent frost heaving, even though the posts are 4' in the ground. IF you backfill the hole with concrete around the pole, the pole rots off in the concrete and it's impossible to replace.

When Morton built the first pole barn here they brought in a ready mix truck and poured into each hole. The company that built the second building dumped bags of dry Sakrete down each hole and tamped it level. Both buildings are still standing with no signs of rot on the poles.

One thing I can NOT recommend, is no overhang. Get at least a minimum overhang to get the rain water away from the building so you're not rotting out side doors and the skirt boards.

 

[hellothere123]

Around here in north alabama see them use both. Some go with 2x6 and same number use 2x4 s. Appears that everyone turns either one on its side and fastens between the post Instead of securing them to outside of post. Use 2x4 and maybe add couple extra and use one vertically secured to the strapping between the post. Then again the extra few might offset the savings.

Interesting comments so far. I haven’t heard of strapping this way before. Inbet

 

[hellothere123]

Interesting comments. Thanks for the ideas.
I’m also looking into renting a crane. Sone have suggested to do the truss tin and strapping on the ground then lift with a crane.
Also going to use bobcat to remove black soil and slope it properly. I’ll put crushed rock in and let it settle with the weight of tractor etc for a few years before putting in concrete

 

[SDMike]

I’m building 40x60x12 high pole shed.
Wondering a few things.
For strapping on the walls I got quoted 2x6x16’ wall strapping.
Will 2x4’s work for wall strapping or stick with the 2x6?

Also looking for how you set your poles. Just tamp with gravel or mix in some concrete?

Before you do anything, check with your local (city or county) building inspector for what is required where you live. For example, I was required to drill a 32" diameter x 54 deep" hole for each 6x6 pole. Then required to put 12" of concrete in the bottom of each hole. PITA. My shed is 58'x63'.
Best of luck.
Mike

 

[cjunrau]

Interesting comments. Thanks for the ideas.
I’m also looking into renting a crane. Sone have suggested to do the truss tin and strapping on the ground then lift with a crane.
Also going to use bobcat to remove black soil and slope it properly. I’ll put crushed rock in and let it settle with the weight of tractor etc for a few years before putting in concrete

Most people would tell you to go 16 high or you can't get a semi in it. value is much higher when you sell the property if it is taller. You may be in an area where that is not an issue.

 

[cjunrau]

Before you do anything, check with your local (city or county) building inspector for what is required where you live. For example, I was required to drill a 32" diameter x 54 deep" hole for each 6x6 pole. Then required to put 12" of concrete in the bottom of each hole. PITA. My shed is 58'x63'.
Best of luck.
Mike

I agree that some areas the rules are a pita. here they can get away now with screw in anchors, and set the posts on top of them. Called posttech SCREW PILES I think.

 

[Mark-Ia]

backfill the holes with crushed rock and go with 16' sidewalls.

 

[NY 986]

If in snow country I would go with the 2 X 6 versus 2 X 4. You do not want sidewalls moving with a lot of snow on the roof.

 

[DoubleR]

I’m building 40x60x12 high pole shed.
Wondering a few things.
For strapping on the walls I got quoted 2x6x16’ wall strapping.
Will 2x4’s work for wall strapping or stick with the 2x6?

Also looking for how you set your poles. Just tamp with gravel or mix in some concrete?

I built one in 1977 and one in 1987, the last one had 12 foot sidewalls the first was only 8 ft sides. I used 2x4s every 2 foot then the steel siding on both. I've never seen anyone around here use 2x6s. On the poles I poured about a foot of cement in the bottom and filled in with dirt after the poles were set. Both barns are still standing and look good and met code after inspections.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

I’m building 40x60x12 high pole shed.
Wondering a few things.
For strapping on the walls I got quoted 2x6x16’ wall strapping.
Will 2x4’s work for wall strapping or stick with the 2x6?

Also looking for how you set your poles. Just tamp with gravel or mix in some concrete?

I recommend you hire the job done, Last farmer who tried to build a pole barn fell and broth both legs.
As for how to build the barn, consult your building inspector.
If you don't have an inspector ask different contractors in your area what they recommend,
My inspector required my poles to be 6x6 and 54 inches below grade. He measured each hole
Each area of the country has different codes.
It took an Amish crew of 7 two days to build my 30x40x14 pole barn.
They have the right equipment to get the job done.
My contractor put concrete donuts under my poles.
Wood is not perfect and they had to bend the poles to get them perfectly aligned.
No concrete around the poles. The best thing is water to set the poles.
I got a good rain after the building was finished and the water settled the dirt around the poles.
After construction, I had a 6 inch floor put down and it supported the pole on 3 sides.
The poles aren't going anywhere

 

[Steve in IL]

Oh no! You are going to get a lot of opinions. Much of the “best answers” will come from local folks that have built recently. A few (perhaps unsolicited) comments on pole barns (again, opinions will vary)—-

1. If you can, go 14’ or even 16’ eves. Height is usually cheap, and opens up a lot of options
2. I like 8’ centers trusses. No need for header boards, as trusses fit on top of posts.
3. Use clear panels on top (1-2’) of each side wall. Lets in a lot of natural light, and is not prone to future leaks the way that clear roof panels are.
4. I used the wall purlins to help build wall shelving (see photo)

Good luck!

 

[Blackhole49]

I'd call that being set ON concrete. That's to prevent frost heaving, even though the posts are 4' in the ground. IF you backfill the hole with concrete around the pole, the pole rots off in the concrete and it's impossible to replace.

When Morton built the first pole barn here they brought in a ready mix truck and poured into each hole. The company that built the second building dumped bags of dry Sakrete down each hole and tamped it level. Both buildings are still standing with no signs of rot on the poles.

One thing I can NOT recommend, is no overhang. Get at least a minimum overhang to get the rain water away from the building so you're not rotting out side doors and the skirt boards.

Or, if you are like me and on a very very tight budget, put gutters and positive drainage away on no overhang. My barns were built in 86 and 02 with no issues so far. Both mine were backfilled with concrete. My neighbors new barn, the poles were set on cement discs and back filled with existing material. If I was doing it, I would have ordered some crushed limestone for backfill.