Farmall Super C electrical issues

Super_C

Member
Hi all I have a Farmall Super C and its got some problems. I dont know how to sturdy up the dash tree ive tried to tighten the bolt but it didn't do anything. Also I'm guessing the battery is bad but after seeing it was at a full 12 volts the starter wouldn't engage unless I put the jump pack on it I do know that the alternator is bad and I have one on the way but I cant figure out what is wrong with this weak starting issue. any help would be great and id love to hear stories about everybody else's tractor. (PICTURES ARE ALWAYS ENCOURAGED).
 
Hi all I have a Farmall Super C and its got some problems. I dont know how to sturdy up the dash tree ive tried to tighten the bolt but it didn't do anything. Also I'm guessing the battery is bad but after seeing it was at a full 12 volts the starter wouldn't engage unless I put the jump pack on it I do know that the alternator is bad and I have one on the way but I cant figure out what is wrong with this weak starting issue. any help would be great and id love to hear stories about everybody else's tractor. (PICTURES ARE ALWAYS ENCOURAGED).
Stop guessing. Take your battery and alternator to any auto parts store and have them test your alternator and battery for Free.
20 years ago I bought a new lifetime alternator from Auto Zone. They replaced it with no hassle.
 
I have taken the alternator and they said it was JUNK but my father said that the battery was an AGM battery I don't know what that means do you have any idea
 
AGM is a type of battery, stands for Absorbed Glass Mat. For you, it just means "more expensive." Your tractor will not start any better on an AGM battery vs. any other type, and is a waste of money on an old tractor.

"A full 12 volts" as in 12.0 volts or lower, means the battery is almost dead. A fully charged "12 volt" battery is 12.6 to 12.7 Volts.

Buy a new battery, preferably a $70 Walmart Value, and install a new alternator.
 
Save your money. Buy a 340 amp lawn mower battery.
My battery measures 12.6 volts.
I got tired of the larger battery shearing off the starter drive on my Farmall C.
So, I use 10g wire, not battery cables.
I couldn't buy a 12v starter for a my 1950 Farmall C.
Try using a used lawnmower battery before spending more money on a car battery.
I only buy sealed lawnmower batteries.
20220131_110440.jpg
 
Buy a new battery, preferably a $70 Walmart Value
Hello Super, welcome to YT! Unless you meant to say it I don’t believe you have tested the battery. The battery needs charged and tested. If it is proven bad only then would I suggest you change it. On the steering wheel support take the bolts out one at a time and clean out the holes use a pointed pick or small screwdriver to dig out any crud and make sure someone has not put to long of bolts in it. Wire brush the threads on the bolt and maybe run a thread tap down in the thread holes if you have one. Put a bit of lube on the threads and screw them back in and see if it tightens up.
 
So this should work just as well as a big battery and take the charge off the alternator and be fine?
I'm new to this stuff being 13 and really only working on IH cubs.
 
Last time I looked there was only one bolt holding the dash tree down and I used a volt meter on the battery and it came out to 12.58 volts
 
Maybe I should have specified this dash tower is loose all the way down to the box with the ignition knob and the wiring
 
Last time I looked there was only one bolt holding the dash tree down and I used a volt meter on the battery and it came out to 12.58 volts
Okay, that is a good indication that the battery is mostly charged. It should have plenty of power to start the tractor. A Super C does not crank over very hard.

Let's try and tackle one problem at a time. Trying to juggle three separate problems makes the conversation confusing. The tractor does not need the alternator to run. It can operate off the battery for a good long time, so let's get the battery issue sorted first.

The next thing to tackle are your battery cables and the connections at both ends. The connections need to be clean, solid and secure. The cable needs to be in good condition. If the copper is green or black, replace the cables.
 
Maybe I should have specified this dash tower is loose all the way down to the box with the ignition knob and the wiring
Are you talking about the steering post or the sheet metal box at the bottom that holds the on-off switch, light switch, and gauges?

There should be four bolts holding the steering post to the top of the box.

The box should have at least two bolts holding it to the frame of the tractor.

Look and see if the box is actually moving around or of the box itself is bending. After 70 years the boxes can become weakened from use and rust. There are no new replacements available, so you would either need to live with it, or find a good used replacement somewhere.
 
so yesterday i took the ground cable off cut some of the ends off and stripped it to the copper then put it back on and cleaned starter connections and it would fire up fine with the jump pack on but otherwise the battery didn't have enough power to spin the starter with enough torque to make the armature fly out into the flywheel it would spin just not quick enough so I know I have electricity but not enough quick power to make the starter gear to engage into the flywheel.
 
I can check the box next Tuesday when I see the tractor next and I'll look, my father is a fabricator so we can probably weld in a new piece that is thicker. Not to brag but for 14 I'm a pretty good welder myself lol.
 
also when I try to crank the tractor over it drops to about 3 volts and when I let off the start ring it comes back to about 10 volts. I also forgot to mention that the ground cable to the block of the motor is only held together by about 4 strands of copper inside so that probably doesn't help at all.
 
On my C's the ground cable attaches to the tower. So, the ground path for the battery and switches are through the tower. Not sure if Super C is that way or not. If so, try running the ground directly to the starter mounting hardware. This will eliminate a possible loss of ground through the loose tower. Dennis
 
Ok I thought about doing this but I asked my grandfather about it (he has a bunch of knowledge and got me into old cars trucks and tractors) but anyways he said it had been there as long as he owned the tractor and that I should probably leave it alone but knowing experts suggest this seems like a good reason to relocate the ground. I don't thing this ground spot is factory also it seems really off I have done a lot of research in IH and this doesn't seem like something they would do from the factory. Thanks Denis for the suggestion.
 
also when I try to crank the tractor over it drops to about 3 volts and when I let off the start ring it comes back to about 10 volts. I also forgot to mention that the ground cable to the block of the motor is only held together by about 4 strands of copper inside so that probably doesn't help at all.
You posted while I was typing I guess. You need to repair the ground. Good luck to you and have fun. Dennis
 
ok thanks I figured it wasn't good do you suggest that I mount it to the tower over the starter? I figured the starter would be the best place but then again I'm a novice at these things on bigger tractors.
 
Ok I thought about doing this but I asked my grandfather about it (he has a bunch of knowledge and got me into old cars trucks and tractors) but anyways he said it had been there as long as he owned the tractor and that I should probably leave it alone but knowing experts suggest this seems like a good reason to relocate the ground. I don't thing this ground spot is factory also it seems really off I have done a lot of research in IH and this doesn't seem like something they would do from the factory. Thanks Denis for the suggestion.
Originally the ground went to the tower but that is only good if the tower is secured with clean and tight threads on the hardware. Actually going direct to the starter mount bolt for starting purposes is best but you still need a good ground at the tower for the light switch to work properly. My opinion anyway. Glad to see you involved. Dennis
 
yes when I pulled the tractor out of its resting place from the past 10 years, there were different lights on it I've been told we still have the original 6 volt light around somewhere but the new lights are grounded directly to the negative terminal on the battery I don't know where the ignition knob is grounded but it still seems to fire up and shut off in the correct positions. My guess is the tower is loose so the PO of the tractor before my faimly's ownership decided to relocate the ground to an easy to reach spot on the tractor. I really appreciate your knowledge and helping me out.
 
Yesterday's Tractor Forums

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top