Trailer 4-lug wheels -- guesses needed

Bear with me patiently, please. Cleaning out my dead in-laws' property. There's a small (snowmobile-size with fold-up ramp) trailer in the yard. It has really wide tires on 4-lug rims, probably 12-inch. Despite rotted wood I think it has a strong frame and single axle with multi-leaf springs. They were going to scrap it, but I think it's salvageable for rebuilding. Unfortunately, I didn't have a chance to examine it closely. (Had to haul lots of other stuff in my own trailer 150 miles at dark.) My question for your advice or guesses is this:

Is it likely that most small trailers with 12-inch, 4-lug rims might have a similar lug-bolt pattern? I ask because I don 't know if the tires would hold air, and I don't want to make the 150-mile trip to find I need different tires to tow it. I have access to 4-lug tires on my son's trailer I could use temporarily. I don 't have anyone at the in-laws' site to try airing or measuring anything. So I seek your experience in dealing with 4-lug wheels on small trailers. Guesses are welcome. (Does any of this make sense? Yes, I know pilot hole could be a consideration also. And, yes, if the trailer were next door, I'd be OK, but it's three hours away, so.... Thanks for any help you can offer.
 
Most seem to be the same lug spacing. Seems 4 lug lawn tractor wheels are the same too, from my experience, but a million different back spacings. Most of the little fat tires are 20.5x8x10"....James

 
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Yep 9 to 1 odds bolt pattern is the same so take the loaner tires and make the 150 mile trip to collect it. Ooorrr just take the spares with you next time you go "and hope they fit". If they fit you have a winner,if not just scrap it.
 
@rossow (mn)

From etrailer online, they offer these four lug trailer rims. Not that they only sell the 4 on 4 because they are likely the universal B.C. for four lug trailer rims. The other four hole rim is likely for low-boy implement type trailers.
The other screen shot shows you which rim dia. is most popular.
1743363247588.png
1743363273701.png



I would take your son's tires because there is a chance that the trailer has golf cart rims and tires.
Which are very wide tires but not for highway speeds nor D.O.T. approved. They also are 4 on 4 pattern.
 
Bear with me patiently, please. Cleaning out my dead in-laws' property. There's a small (snowmobile-size with fold-up ramp) trailer in the yard. It has really wide tires on 4-lug rims, probably 12-inch. Despite rotted wood I think it has a strong frame and single axle with multi-leaf springs. They were going to scrap it, but I think it's salvageable for rebuilding. Unfortunately, I didn't have a chance to examine it closely. (Had to haul lots of other stuff in my own trailer 150 miles at dark.) My question for your advice or guesses is this:

Is it likely that most small trailers with 12-inch, 4-lug rims might have a similar lug-bolt pattern? I ask because I don 't know if the tires would hold air, and I don't want to make the 150-mile trip to find I need different tires to tow it. I have access to 4-lug tires on my son's trailer I could use temporarily. I don 't have anyone at the in-laws' site to try airing or measuring anything. So I seek your experience in dealing with 4-lug wheels on small trailers. Guesses are welcome. (Does any of this make sense? Yes, I know pilot hole could be a consideration also. And, yes, if the trailer were next door, I'd be OK, but it's three hours away, so.... Thanks for any help you can offer.
As you are not sure your tires/rims would fit I would take your trailer having figured out how to load it and secure it,and take the time to get it loaded onto your trailer. Then no worries about bearings or fit of bolt pattern.
 
Menards shows 4 hole wheels and tires

4.80/4.00-8 4-Hole White Rim Trailer Tire and Wheel Assembly​

Model Number: DM408B-4M Menards ® SKU: 2641519
Everyday Low Price$49.99
11% REBATE*Good Through$5.50
PRICEAFTERREBATE*$44.49
each


Martin Wheel Loadstar 5.70-8 4-Hole White Rim Trailer Tire and Wheel

I think the rims are similar. Possible the tires are wider.

I'm going to guess any trailer without brakes are 3000 pound max load rating.
Look at the rating on your old tire for a better Idea of the load rating.
 
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Take your trailer, or your son's trailer, load it and haul it home. Eliminates the tire issues with it and also any bearing or other issues, like lights. If width of the axle is an issue, a couple people should be able to flip it on its back on the trailer you take to get it.
 
I don't want to make the 150-mile trip to find I need different tires to tow it.
Not to be rude but no one knows for certain what tires/rims that trailer needs; you saw it and you don't know. Taking a trailer (with a spare), you know, and hauling the "dead" trailer home takes the risk of guessing wrong on tires it needs, bad bearings, no lights, or other issues you may find wrong with it, out of the picture. Put it on your trailer tie it down and be on the way home. You can work on it at home later. That is the best way to meet your requirement above. Let us know what you decide to do.
 
Update with thank you to all who offered suggestions. The story: I retrieved the trailer Saturday. I was surprised that, after sitting outside unused for several years, the tires looked unexpectedly good, had no soap-test leaks, and the lights all worked perfectly with my truck wiring. The trailer made an uneventful 140-mile trip from Iowa to Minnesota. It turns out it is a factory-made heavy-duty "Yacht Club" trailer that needs new wood but otherwise seems in great condition -- far too good to be scrapped, as had been the family's plan. I need to check the wheel bearings and double-check the tires, but the only challenge should be replacing the rotting wooden sides and questionable plywood floor. I may have to add steel framing members once the floor is removed so I can use treated 2x lumber instead of plywood, and I probably will add open steel rail-and-stile sides to replace the bad wood. Again, thanks to all for comments.

(I think this makes my 10th "roadable" trailer ranging from a teeny 40x42 mini to a '49 Studebaker box to two tandem-axle car haulers. Am I a bit obsessed? Perhaps deranged? I just love trailers.)
 
Update with thank you to all who offered suggestions. The story: I retrieved the trailer Saturday. I was surprised that, after sitting outside unused for several years, the tires looked unexpectedly good, had no soap-test leaks, and the lights all worked perfectly with my truck wiring. The trailer made an uneventful 140-mile trip from Iowa to Minnesota. It turns out it is a factory-made heavy-duty "Yacht Club" trailer that needs new wood but otherwise seems in great condition -- far too good to be scrapped, as had been the family's plan. I need to check the wheel bearings and double-check the tires, but the only challenge should be replacing the rotting wooden sides and questionable plywood floor. I may have to add steel framing members once the floor is removed so I can use treated 2x lumber instead of plywood, and I probably will add open steel rail-and-stile sides to replace the bad wood. Again, thanks to all for comments.

(I think this makes my 10th "roadable" trailer ranging from a teeny 40x42 mini to a '49 Studebaker box to two tandem-axle car haulers. Am I a bit obsessed? Perhaps deranged? I just love trailers.)
What did the bolt pattern turn out to be?
 
What did the bolt pattern turn out to be?
Ironically, it seems to be a standard 5-lug trailer pattern as far as I can tell without taking it off to be sure. Trailer had been so surrounded by weeds that I had been told wheels were 4-lug. Once I had someone check for measurements, I then was told it was 5-lug; I took my boat-trailer tire along as a spare, which, thankfully, I didn't need. Happy ending so far (except, to be safe, I bought another spare to mount on a bare 5-lug rim I have; mounting small trailer tires with stiff sidewalls is much less than a fun experience -- trip to a tire shop is probably in order).
 
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