Pole Barn Gable End Framing

[purplewg]

Well, after six months I finally have a roof on my metal truss pole barn. First crew abandoned me after sitting the posts. Numerous calls and texts went unanswered. I found another crew building one near me and I went and asked if they would finish mine. They did after I purchased the rest of the needed
2x6 purlins and metal for the roof.
I finished the side that most of my rain comes from but want to close in the front gable end. I was reading where they say NOT to connect your gable end
framing to the truss. They said it should be connected to the purlins and not the truss. Not sure I understand that but don't want to do it wrong. I was wondering if anyone knows how to properly do this. I have searched the web and can't find any good info.
I plan to enclose the gable end from top to ground and have two sliding doors to help keep prying eyes out. lololol
Any advice is appreciated.
Tom

 

[paul]

I’m not qualified to answer your question.

Are you going to end up with one wall and one endwall enclosed, or eventually 3 sides enclosed, or what?

Here that structure would be a sail in the winds.

If you enclose 3 sides it becomes a parachute and blows out the back wall or back roof panels. Would need some fencing to relieve the parachute effect.

Have not been around those metal trusses so my views might be wrong for that type of construction. That will be the problems with all of us giving you advice - we don’t know your wind loads, snow loads, and what the different pieces of your building have been designed for.

Paul

 

[Janicholson]

I agree. Further, the end structures provide shear load bracing for the truss structure. Fastening to the perlins is like using only 2 out of 6 lug nuts. Jim

 

[NDIHC]

That almost looks like a strong gust of wind from the open side would make it fold up like a wallet and leave a roof laying on the ground.

 

[Not db4600]

I agree. Further, the end structures provide shear load bracing for the truss structure. Fastening to the perlins is like using only 2 out of 6 lug nuts. Jim

Agreed.
There are considerations to connection points on a metal bar joist or truss usually relative to the “panel points” (where the top or bottom chord meet the webbing)
How you frame the walls will determine how you connect to the truss. L clips, angle iron clips and bolts are going to be your friend.

 

[tomturkey]

good luck, with those post and bar joist rafter system set in a couple feet your options are few. Good luck my friend but I think you will loose a couple feet of floor space to put an end wall with sliders. gobble

 

[Scott 730]

I agree. Further, the end structures provide shear load bracing for the truss structure. Fastening to the perlins is like using only 2 out of 6 lug nuts. Jim

That whole roof system looks sketchy to me. No visible diagonal bracing in the trusses or purlins means that the roof steel acting as a diaphragm is the only thing keeping those trusses from tipping over. My opinion only. YMMV.

There does appear to be some lumber lateral bracing on the bottom chords of the trusses.

There is also no diagonal bracing visible in the wall system. Puff The Magic Dragon could likely blow that whole thing down.

 

[purplewg]

I will try to clarify some things I hope. Trusses are engineered for 140MPH winds.
Posts are 8x8's sunk 4 ft in the ground with rebar X's drilled through the bottom of each post. 320 pounds of concrete at the bottom of each post.
There is 2x6 lateral bracing on the bottom chords of the trusses.
I am going to add additional bracing from the gable framing up to the trusses. See attached pic.
I probably will only do a half wall on the other gable end as it butt's up to my cow pen. One side will remain open.
I plan to put diagonal bracing inside between each post.
Barn is located in FL and is 40x48.
I tore down the old barn my dad and I built in 1965 in the same spot. For 20 years I kept saying the next hurricane will take it down. It never did. lol

 

[Richard G.]

Well, after six months I finally have a roof on my metal truss pole barn. First crew abandoned me after sitting the posts. Numerous calls and texts went unanswered. I found another crew building one near me and I went and asked if they would finish mine. They did after I purchased the rest of the needed
2x6 purlins and metal for the roof.
I finished the side that most of my rain comes from but want to close in the front gable end. I was reading where they say NOT to connect your gable end
framing to the truss. They said it should be connected to the purlins and not the truss. Not sure I understand that but don't want to do it wrong. I was wondering if anyone knows how to properly do this. I have searched the web and can't find any good info.
I plan to enclose the gable end from top to ground and have two sliding doors to help keep prying eyes out. lololol
Any advice is appreciated.
Tom

I could not sleep at night with equipment stored in that.
I am no expert by any means, but that looks awful flimsy for the winds we get here in NW SC.

 

[Scott 730]

I will try to clarify some things I hope. Trusses are engineered for 140MPH winds.
Posts are 8x8's sunk 4 ft in the ground with rebar X's drilled through the bottom of each post. 320 pounds of concrete at the bottom of each post.
There is 2x6 lateral bracing on the bottom chords of the trusses.
I am going to add additional bracing from the gable framing up to the trusses. See attached pic.
I probably will only do a half wall on the other gable end as it butt's up to my cow pen. One side will remain open.
I plan to put diagonal bracing inside between each post.
Barn is located in FL and is 40x48.
I tore down the old barn my dad and I built in 1965 in the same spot. For 20 years I kept saying the next hurricane will take it down. It never did. lol

The building in this picture has X braces between trusses that I don't see in your first 2 pictures.

 

[NDIHC]

I will try to clarify some things I hope. Trusses are engineered for 140MPH winds.
Posts are 8x8's sunk 4 ft in the ground with rebar X's drilled through the bottom of each post. 320 pounds of concrete at the bottom of each post.
There is 2x6 lateral bracing on the bottom chords of the trusses.
I am going to add additional bracing from the gable framing up to the trusses. See attached pic.
I probably will only do a half wall on the other gable end as it butt's up to my cow pen. One side will remain open.
I plan to put diagonal bracing inside between each post.
Barn is located in FL and is 40x48.
I tore down the old barn my dad and I built in 1965 in the same spot. For 20 years I kept saying the next hurricane will take it down. It never did. lol

Is this a different building? More purlins on the walls on this one and nothing really looks to be the same as the first pics.

 

[purplewg]

Is this a different building? More purlins on the walls on this one and nothing really looks to be the same as the first pics.

Yes, I was just trying to show how I plan to brace the gable end.

 

[Not db4600]

good luck, with those post and bar joist rafter system set in a couple feet your options are few. Good luck my friend but I think you will loose a couple feet of floor space to put an end wall with sliders. gobble

Might we assume this is a gable soffit? Wall plane ca still live in the plane of the poles.

 

[will-max dairy]

So... are you buying discrete parts, like rafters, poles, purlins and such... and designing a building out of them on the fly?

I ask, because the trusses may be designed to handle 140mph winds... but their connections to the poles may not... if you came up with your own connection method. (this may be fine... I'm just picking on one aspect of the design)

If the entire building isn't built from a kit of parts designed to go together to meet their specs... connected together according to an planned design...then what guarantees that any of the individual parts will live up to their specs?

Anyway...

I'm not going to tell you what to do... but I'm going to do two things.

1. Say that a building is a system. The truss may be able to take 140mph wind and maintain its shape; but if you find it in pristine condition... one county over, because it detached from the rest of the building... doesn't do much good.

2. I'm assuming that the wind load on the truss that its rated for would be blowing from right to left... or left to right in your pictures. The truss rating (I don't think) doesn't say anything about how much wind it can withstand, while trying to hold ... essentially a sail... (the end of your barn) against the wind.

Bonus... I guess I'm doing three things...here is a video of a local roof collapse from snow loading. Yeah... I know it's snow... not wind...

But watch the second take of the video in slow motion. The trusses were fine with the snow... but the building had a crappy connection between the gable end and the trusses... calamity ensued.

Without knowing how strong your gable end itself is... does it have poles? How strong is the header? Is there any other bracing from the gable header to the truss system?... I'm not sure anybody can say how to meet your design goals by connection to the trusses alone...

The building is a system...and it's only as strong as its weakest link...

UPDATED: Barneveld Fire House Collapses; No Injuries Reported

Another building has fallen victim to heavy snow.

www.wktv.com

 

[NDIHC]

Yes, I was just trying to show how I plan to brace the gable end.

I see

 

[Vito]

Doesn't sound complicated to me. Not sure how they set the gable end trusses but they should have offset the gable end truss for you to be able to frame up to the purlins.

Vito

 

[will-max dairy]

So... are you buying discrete parts, like rafters, poles, purlins and such... and designing a building out of them on the fly?

I ask, because the trusses may be designed to handle 140mph winds... but their connections to the poles may not... if you came up with your own connection method. (this may be fine... I'm just picking on one aspect of the design)

If the entire building isn't built from a kit of parts designed to go together to meet their specs... connected together according to an planned design...then what guarantees that any of the individual parts will live up to their specs?

Anyway...

I'm not going to tell you what to do... but I'm going to do two things.

1. Say that a building is a system. The truss may be able to take 140mph wind and maintain its shape; but if you find it in pristine condition... one county over, because it detached from the rest of the building... doesn't do much good.

2. I'm assuming that the wind load on the truss that its rated for would be blowing from right to left... or left to right in your pictures. The truss rating (I don't think) doesn't say anything about how much wind it can withstand, while trying to hold ... essentially a sail... (the end of your barn) against the wind.

Bonus... I guess I'm doing three things...here is a video of a local roof collapse from snow loading. Yeah... I know it's snow... not wind...

But watch the second take of the video in slow motion. The trusses were fine with the snow... but the building had a crappy connection between the gable end and the trusses... calamity ensued.

Without knowing how strong your gable end itself is... does it have poles? How strong is the header? Is there any other bracing from the gable header to the truss system?... I'm not sure anybody can say how to meet your design goals by connection to the trusses alone...

The building is a system...and it's only as strong as its weakest link...

UPDATED: Barneveld Fire House Collapses; No Injuries Reported

Another building has fallen victim to heavy snow.

www.wktv.com

I do see some kind of gable braces in your picture?

But without knowing how they connect, where they connect to... I'm not sure what to say... other than it's a good idea and better than nothing.

 

[kencombs]

Aside from everything else, the truss maker can and should provide the info you need. There are lots of similar systems around used for chicken houses without a lot of issue, except for snow loads so it shouldn't be guaranteed to fall down.

 

[flying belgian]

Well, after six months I finally have a roof on my metal truss pole barn. First crew abandoned me after sitting the posts. Numerous calls and texts went unanswered. I found another crew building one near me and I went and asked if they would finish mine. They did after I purchased the rest of the needed
2x6 purlins and metal for the roof.
I finished the side that most of my rain comes from but want to close in the front gable end. I was reading where they say NOT to connect your gable end
framing to the truss. They said it should be connected to the purlins and not the truss. Not sure I understand that but don't want to do it wrong. I was wondering if anyone knows how to properly do this. I have searched the web and can't find any good info.
I plan to enclose the gable end from top to ground and have two sliding doors to help keep prying eyes out. lololol
Any advice is appreciated.
Tom

You might be able to save it if you run some knee braces from every rafter down to every post. Then run some cable X in the walls.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

I think you're going to have to set at least two poles on the gable ends, one on each side of the door opening. On a building that size you can't just have a floating curtain wall hanging from the purlins.