PS cylinders, 801 series

[pomester]

I've got a badly leaking original cylinder on an 801. Chrome is gone on part of the rod. 1/2" rods.

The only real option is to replace the cylinder, correct? New seal will not hold on the worn rod and the cylinder is not rebuildable, correct?

Cylinder on the other side looks to be good/not leaking and rod chrome intact.

Looking at the options, there seems to be a big price disparity between vendors with prices ranging from $90 to over $500 for an aftermarket cylinder. Anybody know if they all come from the same overseas factory? Will one original cylinder and one aftermarket play nice with each other on the same tractor (assuming same size rods)? Originally there were apparently left hand and right cylinders, now it's 'one cylinder fits either side'. Is this a plumbing issue with the lines at the cylinder fittings?

I love to hear of experiences with this situation. Thanks
David

 

[TractorDad3]

Watching, thanks for posting
I have 3 of 4 that need attention, 1 on a working tractor that leaks, two rusted with 80% of the chrome gone that don’t leak on a stuck 4000

 

[pomester]

Watching, thanks for posting
I have 3 of 4 that need attention, 1 on a working tractor that leaks, two rusted with 80% of the chrome gone that don’t leak on a stuck 4000

I guess no one else has ever had any leaky power steering cylinders, just you and me.

Near all the aftermarket sellers use the same picture for their cylinders which suggests all are out of the same overseas factory. Any reason not to purchase the cheapest one?

 

[tractorford]

yea know i got one of them cheap o kits and boogered out the seals on my power steering cylinders last year, and the rods are pretty bad mind you--- and lo and behold they havent leaked a drip from either side, if they ever do leak id slap whatever replacement set i could find within my budget

frankly my dear- if they didnt get 'fixed-- no doubt about it- id just buy those hundred dollar cylinder sets if i were needing to pay attention to them again, id figure something made in the 1950s here would be able to be re-created by most exotic places these days in this century

 

[ErnieD]

I am told the cylinders can be cut apart on a lathe and rewelded. I have no experience. This was from a MF dealer. I had a pitted spot on the chrome rod. Cleaned with very fine emery paper, alcohol and filled with JB Weld. Smoothed with 2000 grit emery paper has held up.

 

[TractorDad3]

I guess no one else has ever had any leaky power steering cylinders, just you and me.

Near all the aftermarket sellers use the same picture for their cylinders which suggests all are out of the same overseas factory. Any reason not to purchase the cheapest one?

Haha something tells me I doubt that it’s just you and me
I suppose biting the bullet pulling them and taking them to the closest hydraulic shop is the right move, but I am interested to see if anyone has in fact used the aftermarket ones to great long term success

 

[pomester]

Haha something tells me I doubt that it’s just you and me
I suppose biting the bullet pulling them and taking them to the closest hydraulic shop is the right move, but I am interested to see if anyone has in fact used the aftermarket ones to great long term success

I ordered the cheapest cylinder reseal kit I could find today $12.84 delivered). I'm gonna see if new seals will give me some hours while I work on sorting the rest of the tractor out. I pulled the PS pump today, it's the early model with the integrated reservoir that is kinda an orphan. The seal of the reservoir to the pump had a slow drip, I'll either fix it or make it worse. Gasket is no longer serviced. I have the same pump on my 981 and I've had it apart to replace the filter and if I recall correctly the seal is a large O-ring which I should be able to source. (picture from 2023)

I think I'll go make a post on my transmission adventure of the evening.

 

[pomester]

I've got a badly leaking original cylinder on an 801. Chrome is gone on part of the rod. 1/2" rods.

The only real option is to replace the cylinder, correct? New seal will not hold on the worn rod and the cylinder is not rebuildable, correct?

Cylinder on the other side looks to be good/not leaking and rod chrome intact.

Looking at the options, there seems to be a big price disparity between vendors with prices ranging from $90 to over $500 for an aftermarket cylinder. Anybody know if they all come from the same overseas factory? Will one original cylinder and one aftermarket play nice with each other on the same tractor (assuming same size rods)? Originally there were apparently left hand and right cylinders, now it's 'one cylinder fits either side'. Is this a plumbing issue with the lines at the cylinder fittings?

I love to hear of experiences with this situation. Thanks
David

The seal kit for the cylinder arrived today. Looking at the cylinder, there's a clamp at the end of the rod. Is it possible just to loosen the clamp and turn the rod out of the end so I don't have to remove the rod end from the drag link?

 

[TractorDad3]

Watching your progress closely now, I have the same cylinders. Unfortunately one of my rod ends looks like it was welded to the clamp.
Thank you very much for posting this

 

[tractorford]

I remember I left mine attached at the ends and held them up with some rigging... only detached the front portion --wow yer chrome looks brand new compared to mine heh

The seal kit for the cylinder arrived today. Looking at the cylinder, there's a clamp at the end of the rod. Is it possible just to loosen the clamp and turn the rod out of the end so I don't have to remove the rod end from the drag link?
View attachment 115733

 

[pomester]

I remember I left mine attached at the ends and held them up with some rigging... only detached the front portion --wow yer chrome looks brand new compared to mine heh

Look at that spot where the rod is exiting the cylinder and see the oval rust area.

 

[pomester]

The seal kit for the cylinder arrived today. Looking at the cylinder, there's a clamp at the end of the rod. Is it possible just to loosen the clamp and turn the rod out of the end so I don't have to remove the rod end from the drag link?
View attachment 115733

The answer is yes, you can loosen the clamp and unscrew the rod from the tie end. The clamp is attached to the end somehow and does not come all the way off. It takes a skinny 7/16" to get it started tho.

Here's what came out. I did not get the picture series I thought I did, camera or operator malfunction I guess.
The piece to the right came out last and fought a bit. It's a tough rubber/plastic. I reached in with a sharp tool and kept working it until finally... the actual seal is second from the right, rubber and the inside is beveled with the tight to the inside of the cylinder. Retainer, also beveled, and snap ring. The seal kit has a couple of extra seals, but the ones for this application looked right on and fit well. No picture of them on the bench.

New backer and seal in position.

Retainer and snap ring. A bit fussy to get the snap ring locked in.

Here's where the chrome is missing. I wire brushed it very well, degreased, and filled the pits with JB. Tomorrow I'll sand it with 600 grit and hope the assembly will give me some hours while I try to get the rest of the tractor sorted out.

From a distance the tractor looks pretty good, up close it becomes obvious that it set outside a lot.

 

[pomester]

I ordered the cheapest cylinder reseal kit I could find today $12.84 delivered). I'm gonna see if new seals will give me some hours while I work on sorting the rest of the tractor out. I pulled the PS pump today, it's the early model with the integrated reservoir that is kinda an orphan. The seal of the reservoir to the pump had a slow drip, I'll either fix it or make it worse. Gasket is no longer serviced. I have the same pump on my 981 and I've had it apart to replace the filter and if I recall correctly the seal is a large O-ring which I should be able to source. (picture from 2023) View attachment 115087
I think I'll go make a post on my transmission adventure of the evening.

Worked in the shop for a bit this evening. Sanded the JB weld on the rod, screwed it back into the tie end and tightened the clamp. Put the worn area to the top, not sure that's a good idea but probably won't make any difference.

Then moved onto the pump. The NOS filter came today along with the large square profiled O-ring that seals the canister to the pump. Old original (probably) filter next to the new one. I'd say it's time.

Filter installed.

The canister is sealed to the pump with a large O-ring. O-ring is #AS568-250 square cross section O-ring. Bought it from 'The O-ring Store' - minimum order of 5 @ $1.61 each. No longer serviced from CNH. While I was at it I bought O-rings for the piston hydraulic pump to manifold, since the last rebuild kit I purchased contained round cross section O-rings instead of square. The two different O-rings are #s AS568-214 and 215. Catch there was the minimum order was 45 rings. One was $.07/each, the other was $.27/each. $23 total for O-rings and $10 shipping. Dunno. I got 'em. If anyone wants a set or two of the pump O-rings PM me. If you'll send me a stamped, self-addressed envelope I'll donate a set or two to your cause.

I oiled up the big O-ring and stretched it into position. It wants to twist and I make sure it's seated properly all the way around. I had previously wire brushed the seating surface on the canister.

I forgot to index the canister to the pump. The pressure fitting comes off the top pretty much straight up so I oriented the fill for the canister with it. Likely be close enough. It takes a block of wood and a mallet to encourage the canister onto the pump and then it is retained by a V grooved retaining clamp.