Price check for tractor machine shop work

I'm just wondering what people have experienced. I know different parts of the country will be different. The first thing I ran into was there are not as many shops around anymore. With auto engines lasting so much longer, I understand that. Then looking at reviews of ones that are, I read things like, " Seems like they only want to work on hot rods or race engines." So assuming you can find a shop, what did you pay for work? Maybe you even do it yourself.
Should probably say if gas or diesel and how many cylinders.

How about a complete valve job. Maybe say what you had done, hardened inserts etc.
Grind a crank. Just one or a few, or all the journals, etc.

I got a price, gas 4cyl, to hot tank, magnaflux, and inspect my block and head. $150 for the block and $140 for the head. That's with me disassembling.
 
My son owns an engine machine shop. I honestly can't tell you what he gets for any of those jobs. I can tell you that he's about two years behind and won't take any new customers unless you have a $50,000 race engine. I had to have the crank out of my 1600 welded where the thrust was worn last summer though, and sent it to the shop where he sends them. Welding it, then regrinding that main journal and grinding the rod journals .010, it was $450. He said they grind V8 cranks for him for $350. I don't know if there's any discount between businesses involved in that or not.
 
Dread you hit the nail on the head. Not as many shops and not as much of it being done. Prices has had to go up like everything else. I do a lot of my own stuff so cant tell you a price. Two things: there is a trend toward buying a part (like camshaft if it needs replacing) and just putting it in not taking to a shop. Next if you need this work done and have a shop that will do it (good work and good service) I would not fight with them on price.
 
I'm just wondering what people have experienced. I know different parts of the country will be different. The first thing I ran into was there are not as many shops around anymore. With auto engines lasting so much longer, I understand that. Then looking at reviews of ones that are, I read things like, " Seems like they only want to work on hot rods or race engines." So assuming you can find a shop, what did you pay for work? Maybe you even do it yourself.
Should probably say if gas or diesel and how many cylinders.

How about a complete valve job. Maybe say what you had done, hardened inserts etc.
Grind a crank. Just one or a few, or all the journals, etc.

I got a price, gas 4cyl, to hot tank, magnaflux, and inspect my block and head. $150 for the block and $140 for the head. That's with me disassembling.
If that is for 2 to 2 1/2 hours of labor plus shop supplies that sounds fair or even low.
 
Machine shops here are dying. Several private guys that are older and piddle with it. Just takes a little to get your stuff. Not sure the price. Here I've been told they grind a crank or deck a block, then when the customer comes they fuss at the bill and won't pay. You can't run a shop on no-pays. Napa had a good shop everything went to but it closed.
 
Machine shops here are dying. Several private guys that are older and piddle with it. Just takes a little to get your stuff. Not sure the price. Here I've been told they grind a crank or deck a block, then when the customer comes they fuss at the bill and won't pay. You can't run a shop on no-pays. Napa had a good shop everything went to but it closed.
Yes quite a few years ago Napa (and others) closed up machine shops around me.
 
I asked about machine shops at my local Napa and they couldn’t help me with recommending a shop. They are mostly older guys and it turned into a conversation about who used to be in business but is either retired or dead now.
 
I asked about machine shops at my local Napa and they couldn’t help me with recommending a shop. They are mostly older guys and it turned into a conversation about who used to be in business but is either retired or dead now.
Just do some looking there are a few "race shops" and they tend to be expensive and don't like working on old tractors.
 
I just took it to a place today and it seems like a good shop from their reviews. Small two man shop, the old machinist was even missing some fingers.
That is good hope it goes well. What is hard or these shops or any business is the one off customer you never see again. Verses a garage bringing stuff in every week.
 
I got my crankshaft back and will give specifics, but first on this June 6th just let me say "Thank God for the Greatest Generation."

I brought it to Nasco Automotive Machine, Inc. in Saco Maine on this Monday morning and got a call on Thursday morning it was ready.
Just a recap, I bought a Super 55 with a seized engine. I dropped the oil pan and could see instantly that the #3 rod bearing had been very hot. It was a very light brown color and was bone dry whereas everything else I could see was very black and oily. The rod bearing on the rod side was semi welded to the rod. The crankshaft had already been ground .010" under and Nasco was able to clean it up with another .010" off. So here are the charges:
Inspect crankshaft: $27
Magnaflux crank: $30
Machine #3 rod journal
and clean crank: $190
Shop supplies $13

Total: $260

I asked what the charges would have been if I had the whole crank ground and he said about $200 more.
So I'm very happy with the work and the price. It's a small shop with I think just 2 guys working and I like supporting small shops if their work is good. I'm about an hour and 20 minutes from them but I would definitely use them again.


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I got my crankshaft back and will give specifics, but first on this June 6th just let me say "Thank God for the Greatest Generation."

I brought it to Nasco Automotive Machine, Inc. in Saco Maine on this Monday morning and got a call on Thursday morning it was ready.
Just a recap, I bought a Super 55 with a seized engine. I dropped the oil pan and could see instantly that the #3 rod bearing had been very hot. It was a very light brown color and was bone dry whereas everything else I could see was very black and oily. The rod bearing on the rod side was semi welded to the rod. The crankshaft had already been ground .010" under and Nasco was able to clean it up with another .010" off. So here are the charges:
Inspect crankshaft: $27
Magnaflux crank: $30
Machine #3 rod journal
and clean crank: $190
Shop supplies $13

Total: $260

I asked what the charges would have been if I had the whole crank ground and he said about $200 more.
So I'm very happy with the work and the price. It's a small shop with I think just 2 guys working and I like supporting small shops if their work is good. I'm about an hour and 20 minutes from them but I would definitely use them again.


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Cheap enough! And you got them to do it in under six months.
 
Yes in todays world as to price and turn around time. Only thing i would have done different would ground all 4 rods the same and put in all new bearings. But that is just me.
 
I got my crankshaft back and will give specifics, but first on this June 6th just let me say "Thank God for the Greatest Generation."

I brought it to Nasco Automotive Machine, Inc. in Saco Maine on this Monday morning and got a call on Thursday morning it was ready.
Just a recap, I bought a Super 55 with a seized engine. I dropped the oil pan and could see instantly that the #3 rod bearing had been very hot. It was a very light brown color and was bone dry whereas everything else I could see was very black and oily. The rod bearing on the rod side was semi welded to the rod. The crankshaft had already been ground .010" under and Nasco was able to clean it up with another .010" off. So here are the charges:
Inspect crankshaft: $27
Magnaflux crank: $30
Machine #3 rod journal
and clean crank: $190
Shop supplies $13

Total: $260

I asked what the charges would have been if I had the whole crank ground and he said about $200 more.
So I'm very happy with the work and the price. It's a small shop with I think just 2 guys working and I like supporting small shops if their work is good. I'm about an hour and 20 minutes from them but I would definitely use them again.


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Maine you must be in New Hampshire or Vermont?
 
Do not use a questionable rod. It can lead to another failure. At least have it checked to see if it is useable.
I am with Jim on this one and usually a new rod is cheap. It gets scarier when the rod has been in a accident like spun bearing
 
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