JD 336 needle adjustment

[Northvale PA]

Asking for opinions, my main 336 baler was not tying on one side. Long story but I replaced a part of the twine disk holder. I also adjusted both needles. We baled 400 bales a couple weeks ago no missed ties. But I started baling 2 days ago and both needles had gone out of adjustment the same distance. Specifically the gap between the twine disk to underside of the needles had opened up from about 1/16 inch to nearly 3/16 inch and the same side was missing again. I readjusted the distance back to 1/16 and all worked immediately. Question is how would they get out of adjustment between use? Temperature change? I’m wondering if there is something going on with the needle lift frame itself. As in the pivot points wearing or something. Thanks.

 

[showcrop]

Are you surte that once you got them adjusted before that you tightened them and measured again? IIRC they would move as you tighten them.

 

[Roger in Iowa]

Asking for opinions, my main 336 baler was not tying on one side. Long story but I replaced a part of the twine disk holder. I also adjusted both needles. We baled 400 bales a couple weeks ago no missed ties. But I started baling 2 days ago and both needles had gone out of adjustment the same distance. Specifically the gap between the twine disk to underside of the needles had opened up from about 1/16 inch to nearly 3/16 inch and the same side was missing again. I readjusted the distance back to 1/16 and all worked immediately. Question is how would they get out of adjustment between use? Temperature change? I’m wondering if there is something going on with the needle lift frame itself. As in the pivot points wearing or something. Thanks.

The crop you are baling may be springy causing it to interfere with the needles as they are coming up for the tying cycle. Make the hay dogs are working and their springs are making them work. Those springs can fail from rusting or hay dogs no longer pivot from rust. Haydogs act as check valves and hold hay toward the rear of balecase every stroke of plungerhead.
Can add additional hay dogs top and bottom of balecase.

 

[Roger in Iowa]

Asking for opinions, my main 336 baler was not tying on one side. Long story but I replaced a part of the twine disk holder. I also adjusted both needles. We baled 400 bales a couple weeks ago no missed ties. But I started baling 2 days ago and both needles had gone out of adjustment the same distance. Specifically the gap between the twine disk to underside of the needles had opened up from about 1/16 inch to nearly 3/16 inch and the same side was missing again. I readjusted the distance back to 1/16 and all worked immediately. Question is how would they get out of adjustment between use? Temperature change? I’m wondering if there is something going on with the needle lift frame itself. As in the pivot points wearing or something. Thanks.

Early 336 balers did not have plungerhead extensions. Pieces of angle iron bolted to surface of plungerhead to push hay further down the balecase. You can add or make them. But earlier comments are most significant about haydogs.

 

[Northvale PA]

Are you surte that once you got them adjusted before that you tightened them and measured again? IIRC they would move as you tighten them.

Yes, very tight. Then a week later baled 400 bales of alfalfa. No misses.

 

[Northvale PA]

The crop you are baling may be springy causing it to interfere with the needles as they are coming up for the tying cycle. Make the hay dogs are working and their springs are making them work. Those springs can fail from rusting or hay dogs no longer pivot from rust. Haydogs act as check valves and hold hay toward the rear of balecase every stroke of plungerhead.
Can add additional hay dogs top and bottom of balecase.

Hay dogs working fine. Baling alfalfa so pretty tight material.

 

[Northvale PA]

Early 336 balers did not have plungerhead extensions. Pieces of angle iron bolted to surface of plungerhead to push hay further down the balecase. You can add or make them. But earlier comments are most significant about haydogs.

No, mine does not have bale case extensions. I’ve owned the Baler about 20 years. Needles have never got out of adjustment. I’m thinking it’s the needle lift frame itself. I assume there are bushings in the pivot points and maybe something has worn too much. Thanks

 

[Roger in Iowa]

No, mine does not have bale case extensions. I’ve owned the Baler about 20 years. Needles have never got out of adjustment. I’m thinking it’s the needle lift frame itself. I assume there are bushings in the pivot points and maybe something has worn too

No, mine does not have bale case extensions. I’ve owned the Baler about 20 years. Needles have never got out of adjustment. I’m thinking it’s the needle lift frame itself. I assume there are bushings in the pivot points and maybe something has worn too much. Thanks

PLUNGERHEAD EXTENSIONS not balecase.
Yes there could be other issues.

 

[Northvale PA]

PLUNGERHEAD EXTENSIONS not balecase.
Yes there could be other issues.

Correct. My bad. Thanks.

 

[Roger in Iowa]

Correct. My bad. Thanks.

Your 336 could be over 50 years old. First some years did not have plungerhead extensions. They do make a difference. Just bolt on if still available.

 

[flying belgian]

I'm thinking you might be on to something with wear. Can you grab the needle arm frame and jiggle it around? See if there is slop or play on ssomething. Try and move every linkage point. 0

 

[Tx Jim]

It's possible bearing on LH side of needle lift shaft is severely worn allowing needle shaft to drop while needles are being raised during tying cycle.