"Sharpening" Screwdrivers

I "sharpen" my screwdrivers when the ends get worn. I always try to keep a nice straight end with the thickness and the taper the same as original.
Goose's funny post shows the shape a lot of screwdrivers wind up in after somebody has actually sharpened them.
I have brought many garage sale screwdrivers back to life with a little proper "sharpening".
 
I "sharpen" my screwdrivers when the ends get worn. I always try to keep a nice straight end with the thickness and the taper the same as original.
Goose's funny post shows the shape a lot of screwdrivers wind up in after somebody has actually sharpened them.
I have brought many garage sale screwdrivers back to life with a little proper "sharpening".
I have a small, thin flathead screwdriver with a notch filed into the end of it. I use it on drum brake springs on very small import cars (Kia Spectra, Mitsubishi Mirage, etc) the drum brake springs on these are too short for my old brake spring pliers... so I just catch the end of the spring in the notch of this screwdriver and push it into its slot... (I guess this is more "shaping" than "sharpening"... but I have a few screwdrivers that have been purpose-shaped over the years)
 
I have a small, thin flathead screwdriver with a notch filed into the end of it. I use it on drum brake springs on very small import cars (Kia Spectra, Mitsubishi Mirage, etc) the drum brake springs on these are too short for my old brake spring pliers... so I just catch the end of the spring in the notch of this screwdriver and push it into its slot... (I guess this is more "shaping" than "sharpening"... but I have a few screwdrivers that have been purpose-shaped over the years)
My two "purpose built" are heated and bent into a small hook on the end. And I think I have one that is sawed and split into a "v" but its purpose escapes me now. steve
 
I've been scratching my head a while, and I think it was to bridge over a screw head that had a center protrusion. But that was like 40-50 years ago: the screwdriver is still here, but not the memory. Maybe from a firearm assembly? steve


One of my rifles has a threaded nut insert holding a screw that I think that runs through the forend. That nut insert (whatever it's called) has an H type pattern (as I learned it) that would use a screwdriver as you describe. I can't recall the gun offhand.
 
My two "purpose built" are heated and bent into a small hook on the end. And I think I have one that is sawed and split into a "v" but its purpose escapes me now. steve
Car stereos in the 70s used a special tool like that for removal from the dash. This was to combat theft. It wasn’t too effective, they just ripped the plastic dash apart. I made one out of an old screw driver and a piece of scrap metal tubing.
 
When I was gunsmithing properly grinding screwdrivers was a skill that had to be learned. One doesnt bugger screw heads on customer weapons! Actually I ground hex bits because the number needed is many and if one was messed up grinding it got pitched with no tears. During a slow time I built a jig using a die grinder and a rotating 5C collet holder. Then I had perfect hollow ground bits every time.
 
Even"Primitive Pete" knew how to dress a screwdriver. I guess it is a vanishing skill, like driving a non-synchronized transmission, and cursive writing.
 
Tend to toss them out for hex head bolts and use the bigger ones for pry bars.Though over the last 50 or so years I have tended to get prybars for things and leave the screw drives alone. I hate those Phillips and torx head the worst with a passion. Torx always seem to break off just about the time the screw is about to turn. Then I go grind the end down flat again and try it over. The idiot that came up with some of these concoctions should have been hung or worse.
 
I throw them away mostly, along with any screws I find. Straight into the scrap bucket.

Bigger ones get used for prybars, etc.
Maybe you ought to save a few.....most of us on here (well, maybe not anymore) spend at least some time working on old stuff that was made long before square, torx and yes, even phillips.
And....if you want to "restore" anything you probably don't want to replace all those slotted screws with a newer style fastener that just looks, well, outa place.
That's why I keep a few flat bladed screwdrivers in prime condition.
But hey....that's just the opinion of an ol' fart!!
It's a free country....we can all do just whatever makes us happy.
It seems there are a few people who sometimes post just for the "shock value".
 
I dress up mine with a file rather than the grinder.
Yeah... especially anything small, a grinder can easily "blue" them and take the temper out.

For small tools, chisels, knives, etc, where I want to make sure I keep the temper and hardness, ... I use, typically either a file, old fashioned whetstone... or the Tormek; which is a benchtop, slow rotating, water-cooled grinder.
 
I have a couple of screwdrivers sharpened to a knife point for tacking when welding.

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Use the screwdriver as a wedge to hold the dimension you want, then place the tack. The tack will then hold the dimension as it's finish welded. The tack will keep the gap from closing. You can work to pretty tight tolerances using this method.

Either remove the wedges before welding, which I do most of the time.............or leave them in if you're doing stitch welds.
 
I hand worn ones to the tool guy or counter person and get a new one.

Anyone who has trouble with slotted or Phillips screws needs to pick up a set of Snap-On screwdrivers at a pawn shop or auction. With their vapor-blasted tips, and anti-camout ribs on the Phillips, you won't be able to stand using a lesser screwdriver again.
 
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