Ford 3600 leaking power steering fitting

[clarky000]

Hi there from Australia Go easy on me I'm a total novice!

Ive recently picked up a Ford 3600 from a local farmer that purchased it off the Australian Army (hence the colour). When I got it I noticed that the fitting below the power steering pump was leaking quite a bit. I finally had a go at it by simply unscrewing the fitting and then putting it back together. On doing so it seemed to be worse than when I started (murphy's law)...

Initally it was leaking from where the yellow line is in the last picture. After putting it back together it seemed to be leaking from where the red line in the picture is. Check the attached pics if you are sure what I mean!

I'm wondering if the fitting might be missing a washer or seal or something? Or should that fitting and the thread be enough to simply seal up 100% on it's own?

Should I be looking to replace the line? I'm just concerned that the part it screws into is part of the issue and relacing the line wont resolve the issue.

Any advice you guys can offer would be greatly appreciated! Pics attached of the troublesome part!

 

[Jim.ME]

Welcome to the forums.

In the picture of the sealing surface of the O-ring Boss fitting appears to be bad it should be replaced. It is likely the sealing surface of the tube is compromised as well so the line should be replaced. This is a metal to metal sealing arrangement, not sealant is used.

That milky colored fluid indicates a fluid flush/change is due.

 

[sotxbill]

Hi there from Australia Go easy on me I'm a total novice!

Ive recently picked up a Ford 3600 from a local farmer that purchased it off the Australian Army (hence the colour). When I got it I noticed that the fitting below the power steering pump was leaking quite a bit. I finally had a go at it by simply unscrewing the fitting and then putting it back together. On doing so it seemed to be worse than when I started (murphy's law)...

Initally it was leaking from where the yellow line is in the last picture. After putting it back together it seemed to be leaking from where the red line in the picture is. Check the attached pics if you are sure what I mean!

I'm wondering if the fitting might be missing a washer or seal or something? Or should that fitting and the thread be enough to simply seal up 100% on it's own?

Should I be looking to replace the line? I'm just concerned that the part it screws into is part of the issue and relacing the line wont resolve the issue.

Any advice you guys can offer would be greatly appreciated! Pics attached of the troublesome part!

I usually find a micro crack in the flare every time this has happened in the past. Sometimes they are almost impossible to see.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Welcome to the forums.

In the picture of the sealing surface of the O-ring Boss fitting appears to be bad it should be replaced. It is likely the sealing surface of the tube is compromised as well so the line should be replaced. This is a metal to metal sealing arrangement, not sealant is used.

That milky colored fluid indicates a fluid flush/change is due.

Flaring big tubes like that have always been an issue. One of my wants is a Flair lapping tool that would end some of the pain. Alignment is an issue also. When I run into an issue like this I hut down a steel fitting to use as a seating tool on the flair.

 

[Keith Williams]

I usually find a micro crack in the flare every time this has happened in the past. Sometimes they are almost impossible to see.

Run a fingernail around the flare, I bet it catches. The crack will open up when tightened down. Also check the fitting and the nut.
If you are lucky, you may be able to cut a small section off and redo the flare.
HTH
Keith

 

[Bern]

Hi there from Australia Go easy on me I'm a total novice!

Ive recently picked up a Ford 3600 from a local farmer that purchased it off the Australian Army (hence the colour). When I got it I noticed that the fitting below the power steering pump was leaking quite a bit. I finally had a go at it by simply unscrewing the fitting and then putting it back together. On doing so it seemed to be worse than when I started (murphy's law)...

Initally it was leaking from where the yellow line is in the last picture. After putting it back together it seemed to be leaking from where the red line in the picture is. Check the attached pics if you are sure what I mean!

I'm wondering if the fitting might be missing a washer or seal or something? Or should that fitting and the thread be enough to simply seal up 100% on it's own?

Should I be looking to replace the line? I'm just concerned that the part it screws into is part of the issue and relacing the line wont resolve the issue.

Any advice you guys can offer would be greatly appreciated! Pics attached of the troublesome part!

That brass elbow fitting is worn out, it should not have that step on the 45 degree sealing surface.

 

[sotxbill]

If you replace the elbow, buy it aftermarket from a hydraulic shop.. Its not worth the $145 that a dealer charged me once upon a time.

 

[Hobo,NC]

That brass elbow fitting is worn out, it should not have that step on the 45 degree sealing surface.

This is a moot point they go make flair seals I have never used one I just ran across them while looking at AC repair parts. I have had issues with leaking at that fitting its difficult to tighten that nut up. On the last one I worked on my last resort was a impact gun. I guess years of use with the nut not goodintight" wore the fitting out.

 

[Ultradog MN]

That brass elbow fitting is worn out, it should not have that step on the 45 degree sealing surface.

I agree with Bern.
And what wears them out is vibration - from not having the lines secured. There should be a device that ties the 2 lines together where the #11A points to in the diagram. I always make sure my steering lines are clamped down somewhere between the pump and steering column. Second photo shows a typical contrivance I make out of whatever junk I happen to have laying around for securing them.

 

[Bern]

I agree with Bern.
And what wears them out is vibration - from not having the lines secured. There should be a device that ties the 2 lines together where the #11A points to in the diagram. I always make sure my steering lines are clamped down somewhere between the pump and steering column. Second photo shows a typical contrivance I make out of whatever junk I happen to have laying around for securing them.

That's a much more robust setup than the factory used, which was a plastic clamp that was all too easy to strip the threads.

 

[Bern]

If you replace the elbow, buy it aftermarket from a hydraulic shop.. Its not worth the $145 that a dealer charged me once upon a time.

I refuse to buy even a radiator cap from CNH anymore, their prices are that obscene.

 

[TheOldHokie]

That brass elbow fitting is worn out, it should not have that step on the 45 degree sealing surface.

45 or 37 degree flare? I wouod expect 37. My first thought was thats a "universal" fitting meant to work with both.

TOH

 

[Bern]

45 or 37 degree flare? I wouod expect 37. My first thought was thats a "universal" fitting meant to work with both.

TOH

That's a 45, it's brass.

 

[TheOldHokie]

That's a 45, it's brass.

Good point.

Dan

 

[clarky000]

OK great. Have removed the pipe and plan to get a new one made up at my local Enzed - they fixed me up on another one previously.

I have a question about the brass elbow joint. Ive had a play trying to unscrew it but there isn't enough room to remove it without hitting the engine block. I also can't unscrew the nut direcly above it as that tightens into the elbow joint. I feel like this is a stupid question and Im missing something obvious but how do I get the elbow joint off?

 

[TheOldHokie]

OK great. Have removed the pipe and plan to get a new one made up at my local Enzed - they fixed me up on another one previously.

I have a question about the brass elbow joint. Ive had a play trying to unscrew it but there isn't enough room to remove it without hitting the engine block. I also can't unscrew the nut direcly above it as that tightens into the elbow joint. I feel like this is a stupid question and Im missing something obvious but how do I get the elbow joint off?

The nut is a jam nut and it comes off with the elbow. The elbow is screwed in and clocked at the desired angle and the jam nut is tightened to lock it at that angle. The nut also compresses the rubber oring on the elbow and makes the joint pressure tight. If the nut is not fully tightened the elbow will leak where it screws into the port.

For the elbow to come out there must be enough clearance to unscrew it.

TOH

 

[Sean in PA]

OK great. Have removed the pipe and plan to get a new one made up at my local Enzed - they fixed me up on another one previously.

I have a question about the brass elbow joint. Ive had a play trying to unscrew it but there isn't enough room to remove it without hitting the engine block. I also can't unscrew the nut direcly above it as that tightens into the elbow joint. I feel like this is a stupid question and Im missing something obvious but how do I get the elbow joint off?

If it hits the engine block, then you will need to remove the bolts holding the pump body to the block and remove the pump from the engine to let the elbow turn. I would remove the other line connected at the rear of the reservoir before doing that.

 

[Ultradog MN]

If it hits the engine block, then you will need to remove the bolts holding the pump body to the block and remove the pump from the engine to let the elbow turn. I would remove the other line connected at the rear of the reservoir before doing that.

Agree. It's just 2 bolts to pull the pump - after the lines are off. He might not even have to pull it completely. Just loosen it. Don't remember now.

 

[Bern]

Agree. It's just 2 bolts to pull the pump - after the lines are off. He might not even have to pull it completely. Just loosen it. Don't remember now.

Yep, just rotate the pump slightly.

 

[Sean in PA]

Yep, just rotate the pump slightly.

Yeah, it can't move toward the rear of the tractor when it is loosened. It has to come out toward the side first due to the way it interfaces with the drive gear.