Advice for a Hesston 5530

[Rob in WV]

Hello to all

Looking for some wisdom on this baler. Its a new to me, and is my second round baler. My forst was a 1734 massey.
Used on a small piece of land and my first cutting was 31 rolls, so not very big.

The baler seems to be hard to start the roll. Once it does, it does a good job and eats the hay easily. It will pull the the hay in without any issues but it pulls up to where it should start spinning and then sit there. If i try to pull more hay in, the tines will start clanging. I have opened the rear multiple times and have been able to get it spinning but a few times have tossed it out and started over. The previous owner said it did well for him but hadnt used in a couple of seasons.
This baler is a manual tie, and when i pull the arm to tie, there isn’t much pressure on it like the 1734 massey had. I would pull it to about halfway and let go and it kind of snapped and cut the twine. The 5530 seems like there is no “snap” and it passively cuts the twine. Although, I do know that i need to sharpen the knife.
I like this baler, as it seems simple, and no more than i bale it should continue to give service for me for years. I am a pretty novice wrench on machinery but willing to scrape some hide and twist a few wrenches. I spent my life working on people so the scapes on the hide I am able to fix. I am not sure if I really have an issue or just a sharp learning curve.

Your feedback on this little baler is much appreciated.

Thank you.

 

[Rob in WV]

I am surprised that no one has replied to this thread. Reasonable question, I thought. Seems there are several folks on here who seem to be familiar with this baler. If i can figure out how to delete this thread, i will remove it. Guess can figure it out on my own.

 

[caterpillar guy]

Well I have been using New Idea balers foe the last 30or more years and they will start a bale well if you start in the middle then work to the sides and so on. Not familiar with those balers like the set up on a Deere baler . Dad had a Deere baler I believe it was a 530 or something like that and it was hell to use and worse if the hay got to dry or was to damp. The thing I don't like about the 484 NI is the way they set the door up it will let bales hang in the baler .So if they don't dump out right away they will start to mess up the string on the one side. This is a more of a problem if the bale is a bit bigger. they are a soft center bale ,with a fixed chamber baler. Dad Ih or the same thing in a NI number it will dump anything out when you open the door on it. Your Hesston my be similar to some of the IH or NI balers since they were a bunch of them uilt in the same plant just different color scheme on them.

 

[Rob in WV]

Well I have been using New Idea balers foe the last 30or more years and they will start a bale well if you start in the middle then work to the sides and so on. Not familiar with those balers like the set up on a Deere baler . Dad had a Deere baler I believe it was a 530 or something like that and it was hell to use and worse if the hay got to dry or was to damp. The thing I don't like about the 484 NI is the way they set the door up it will let bales hang in the baler .So if they don't dump out right away they will start to mess up the string on the one side. This is a more of a problem if the bale is a bit bigger. they are a soft center bale ,with a fixed chamber baler. Dad Ih or the same thing in a NI number it will dump anything out when you open the door on it. Your Hesston my be similar to some of the IH or NI balers since they were a bunch of them uilt in the same plant just different color scheme on them.

Thank you for the reply. The 1734 Massey that I owned was a good little baler and started the roll quickly. It is the newer version of this model I believe.
I start slow and pull a little in at the start and it pulls it up in the belts but doesnt begin to spin very easily. Will continue to take hay until it clogs without spinning. I understand what you mean about the hay being too dry or too damp. I am about to try a second cutting. I found a rear roller bearing that was bad and just replaced both on the roller. Hopefully “round 2” will be better. My belts seem fine so I do t think its a belt issue. Probably the operator.

 

[caterpillar guy]

They all have their quirks just some are harder to live with. That open throat design will let hay in well if in the middle till you get the bale to roll. then it doesn't matter .You just keep pouring hay into it as fast as the pickup will take it and when you reach a certain tension it will beep at you and then tie and dump. They are a bit slower then the new balers of today but we got along with it. If hay is to dry it will also be a bit of an issue to tie. Y&ou can feed the string in manually if need though.

 

[DanielW]

I can't offer much experience directly related to the 5530. I've worked on a 530 (pretty much the same baler), but admittedly not a whole lot. But I can definitely say: Your experiences with hard-starting and the symptoms arising thereof are not unique to those Hesstons. Most manufacturers have had models with the same problems and symptoms. It's common practice on Vermeers, Deeres, and NH's to weld some 1/4" keystock across the starter roll to help give more positive grip and start the hay rolling better.

Before you consider that, however: It sounds like your belts aren't turning when there's no hay in it. While a lot of balers get like that after several years of use and a lot of them operate just fine like that, it's really not ideal, and often results in exactly the same problems you describe. A few models aren't meant to have the belts turning when empty, but the 530 and 5530 are supposed to have the belts rolling when empty. When the belts aren't turning, your starter roll and tines are tying to do more, by jamming enough hay against the belts to load them up enough to start them moving, and also start a core rolling. If the belts and starter rolls don't adequately start the core rolling, your tines will be mashing themselves into that static wad of hay that's being built up and start clanging/bending. I strongly suggest taking off your belts and having them re-laced to the same length - which will probably be about an inch or two shorter. Stock length is 364", but they can tolerate a couple inches undersize (as long as they're all the same). Doing so will likely make all the belts roll when empty and help a heck of a lot with your roll starting. The 530 also had MRT belts. When that rough top of the belt surface gets worn slick after several years, it's much harder to start a roll. If yours are really worn/slick, it may be time for new belts.

One of the times I worked on a 530 was for just that reason: The belts had been stretched far too much. There are two pins that are supposed to be used to lock the tailgate partially open and keep tension off the belts when the baler's stored for the year. If they're not on, the belts will stretch too much, because there's a lot of static tension on them when empty with the tailgate fully closed.

 

[GarryinNC]

Hello to all

Looking for some wisdom on this baler. Its a new to me, and is my second round baler. My forst was a 1734 massey.
Used on a small piece of land and my first cutting was 31 rolls, so not very big.

The baler seems to be hard to start the roll. Once it does, it does a good job and eats the hay easily. It will pull the the hay in without any issues but it pulls up to where it should start spinning and then sit there. If i try to pull more hay in, the tines will start clanging. I have opened the rear multiple times and have been able to get it spinning but a few times have tossed it out and started over. The previous owner said it did well for him but hadnt used in a couple of seasons.
This baler is a manual tie, and when i pull the arm to tie, there isn’t much pressure on it like the 1734 massey had. I would pull it to about halfway and let go and it kind of snapped and cut the twine. The 5530 seems like there is no “snap” and it passively cuts the twine. Although, I do know that i need to sharpen the knife.
I like this baler, as it seems simple, and no more than i bale it should continue to give service for me for years. I am a pretty novice wrench on machinery but willing to scrape some hide and twist a few wrenches. I spent my life working on people so the scapes on the hide I am able to fix. I am not sure if I really have an issue or just a sharp learning curve.

Your feedback on this little baler is much appreciated.

Thank you.

Daniel W has it right. I have a 5530 and a 530 and maintain a few of them for other folks. The belts really need that Rough Top not to be worn down too much.

 

[Rob in WV]

Thank you for the replies on this issue.
I will consider adding the 1/4 inch key stock. As far as belts go, will pay particular attention when I bale tomorrow or Friday to see that they are turning. I am 99% sure they are turning but cant say 100%. The rough edges still pretty good shape and there is some adjustment on the rear roller on the back upper roller to take up some slack, although, they seem pretty snug.
This baler has set for a couple of years before i got it. Working my way through it as I go. Just replaced bearings on lower roller on the hatch. One was seized, so hoping to get my second cutting up without incident.
i am considering each reply carefully and appreciate the input I like the simplicity of the baler and dont bale a lot of hay and kinda figured it would last a while longer

 

[Rob in WV]

Here are pics of the belts.

 

[DanielW]

Here are pics of the belts.

Those belts look great. As long as they haven't stretched too much and are spinning decently when empty, I'd say your problem must be elsewhere. The keystock idea might be worth trying (or even a few ugly & heavy weld beads across the starter roll). And make sure everything's set up as per the manual. Older Vermeers got a really bad rap for being hard to start hay. But it was because 90% of people adjusted the pickup height and/or windguard incorrectly and had the wrong gap between their starter roll and tines. When set up correctly, they started the roll just dandy.

I don't know the 530/5530 well enough to know what the adjustments are, but it's worth getting a manual and looking at. On the Vermeers, you can also advance the tine pickup cam to have them stay up longer and play more of a part in helping get the core rolling.

Your bad bearing might have even been part of the problem: If it was causing one roll to turn stiffly, maybe the belts were slipping a little (even if not completely).

Not sure if you have a manual - if you Google, "5530 baler operator manual PDF" you'll find one on the website 'Scribd' that you can read for free (though you have to create an account if you want to download it).

Troubleshooting section for hard-to-start rolls. Doesn't really say anything you don't already know:

 

[Rob in WV]

Those belts look great. As long as they haven't stretched too much and are spinning decently when empty, I'd say your problem must be elsewhere. The keystock idea might be worth trying (or even a few ugly & heavy weld beads across the starter roll). And make sure everything's set up as per the manual. Older Vermeers got a really bad rap for being hard to start hay. But it was because 90% of people adjusted the pickup height and/or windguard incorrectly and had the wrong gap between their starter roll and tines. When set up correctly, they started the roll just dandy.

I don't know the 530/5530 well enough to know what the adjustments are, but it's worth getting a manual and looking at. On the Vermeers, you can also advance the tine pickup cam to have them stay up longer and play more of a part in helping get the core rolling.

Your bad bearing might have even been part of the problem: If it was causing one roll to turn stiffly, maybe the belts were slipping a little (even if not completely).

Not sure if you have a manual - if you Google, "5530 baler operator manual PDF" you'll find one on the website 'Scribd' that you can read for free (though you have to create an account if you want to download it).

Troubleshooting section for hard-to-start rolls. Doesn't really say anything you don't already know:
View attachment 126664

Thank you. I got the manual and have had my nose in it several times. My brother has rolled for 40 yrs and he gave me the on the belt condition and tension. I feel like a lot of my problems could be “operator” related. That was why I asked for advice. Thanks again!

 

[Rob in WV]

OK. Finished the second cutting. Maybe 15 rolls. So the trick seems to be taking three to four small bites into the windrow and letting it collect slowly and then it took right along. Appreciate every reply to this thread. Maybe someone else will find some help from it as well.

 

[GarryinNC]

Hello to all

Looking for some wisdom on this baler. Its a new to me, and is my second round baler. My forst was a 1734 massey.
Used on a small piece of land and my first cutting was 31 rolls, so not very big.

The baler seems to be hard to start the roll. Once it does, it does a good job and eats the hay easily. It will pull the the hay in without any issues but it pulls up to where it should start spinning and then sit there. If i try to pull more hay in, the tines will start clanging. I have opened the rear multiple times and have been able to get it spinning but a few times have tossed it out and started over. The previous owner said it did well for him but hadnt used in a couple of seasons.
This baler is a manual tie, and when i pull the arm to tie, there isn’t much pressure on it like the 1734 massey had. I would pull it to about halfway and let go and it kind of snapped and cut the twine. The 5530 seems like there is no “snap” and it passively cuts the twine. Although, I do know that i need to sharpen the knife.
I like this baler, as it seems simple, and no more than i bale it should continue to give service for me for years. I am a pretty novice wrench on machinery but willing to scrape some hide and twist a few wrenches. I spent my life working on people so the scapes on the hide I am able to fix. I am not sure if I really have an issue or just a sharp learning curve.

Your feedback on this little baler is much appreciated.

Thank you.

Also, try starting the roll at reduced RPM, not at full 540 PTO speed. Once it gets to feeding and the roll spinning, I increase to around full PTO speed. What type of grass are you rolling? I run the tractor(Kubota 4030) in low range 3rd or 4th gear, depending how heavy the windrow is. Usually rake two together in the spring, two or more for second cutting.

 

[Rob in WV]

I kinda doubt anyone involved will still see this on their forum from 2025, HOWEVER, I am responding a year later just in case someone has a similar issue with their Hesston/Case/Massey baler of the same series and are looking for help.

The original post was about starting a roll with the 5530 new to me Hesston rounder.

The information that was offered in the above comments were all solid and helpful comments.

I had further issues including a broken belt during first cutting this year. This baler seems solid, so I bit the bullet and replaced the belts. That was an immediate improvement. This thing eats hay like a beast now. I am a firm believer in putting in place the pins that relieve the baler belt tension.

I plan on replacing the chains next an eventually replacing/repairing the other things that need attention. Its not a Vermeer or a JD...but its paid for and makes a decent roll. With the price of the newer equipment....I plan to keep on wrenchin' on the Old Iron. Just curious, but if anyone knows the lengths of the chain and the pitch,...its appreciated.

I have also pasted a DIY for your gathering wheels. I dont plan to donate any body parts to pay for gathering wheels, but, I did replace my baler tires this year and took the old ones and cut out these very cheap replacements. I suggest mounting them with the interior part of the tire facing the bale chamber. The bolts, when tightened, help shape the wheels to push hay toward the pickup. Takes about an hour and a good sharp razor knife to cut out your own set. Suggest being really careful as the razor does not distinguish your fingers or hands from the tires

Thanks again to everyone that commented.

 

[Rob in WV]

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