Shop heat

[NoDakInMN]

Look, if you want cheap up front, go with the torpedo heater. It will heat the shop up fairly quickly on those evenings you want to work in there. Downside is that the diesel or kerosene is expensive as a fuel source, it gives off a bit of an oder and they are loud. Ignore what the people are saying about them plugging up or melting down running on diesel. If they are rated for that, you are fine as long as you use clean fuel.

It is possible you could convert a propane one to natural gas, but you will need a kit specifically for the unit. The kit will have the correctly sized orifice and the proper spring for the gas valve. You will also need a gas pressure gauge rated in inches of water column to adjust for the proper pressure. This is not a situation where you can just wing it and hope for the best. Natural gas operates at about 1/3 the pressure propane does and both pressures are a fraction of a psi, so you need to do it right.

But the best option, in my professional opinion (I've been a HVAC guy for 40 + years so as they say, I know a thing or two because I've seen a thing or two) is the radiant tube heater or a hanging convection heater like a Modine Hot Dawg. Both come ready to go on natural gas and are not condensing furnaces so you don't have to worry about a condensate drain freezing up or emptying a pail of water if the shop doesn't have any plumbing. Of the two, I would prefer the radiant tube because that heats the floor, the bench, your tools and what you are working on directly instead of heating the air which then heats those things as the convection heater does. I would make certain that the tube heater has a low voltage control system as some are designed for line voltage control. This important because of what I'm going to suggest next, that you incorporate a programmable thermostat that allows you to bring the heat on for an hour or two before you want to work in there, which will have things nice and warm by when you do.

Whatever you decide, I would also recommend keeping the shop heated to at least 40 degrees, it's better for the structure and everything you keep in there.

 

[joeysmith]

Look, if you want cheap up front, go with the torpedo heater. It will heat the shop up fairly quickly on those evenings you want to work in there. Downside is that the diesel or kerosene is expensive as a fuel source, it gives off a bit of an oder and they are loud. Ignore what the people are saying about them plugging up or melting down running on diesel. If they are rated for that, you are fine as long as you use clean fuel.

It is possible you could convert a propane one to natural gas, but you will need a kit specifically for the unit. The kit will have the correctly sized orifice and the proper spring for the gas valve. You will also need a gas pressure gauge rated in inches of water column to adjust for the proper pressure. This is not a situation where you can just wing it and hope for the best. Natural gas operates at about 1/3 the pressure propane does and both pressures are a fraction of a psi, so you need to do it right.

But the best option, in my professional opinion (I've been a HVAC guy for 40 + years so as they say, I know a thing or two because I've seen a thing or two) is the radiant tube heater or a hanging convection heater like a Modine Hot Dawg. Both come ready to go on natural gas and are not condensing furnaces so you don't have to worry about a condensate drain freezing up or emptying a pail of water if the shop doesn't have any plumbing. Of the two, I would prefer the radiant tube because that heats the floor, the bench, your tools and what you are working on directly instead of heating the air which then heats those things as the convection heater does. I would make certain that the tube heater has a low voltage control system as some are designed for line voltage control. This important because of what I'm going to suggest next, that you incorporate a programmable thermostat that allows you to bring the heat on for an hour or two before you want to work in there, which will have things nice and warm by when you do.

Whatever you decide, I would also recommend keeping the shop heated to at least 40 degrees, it's better for the structure and everything you keep in there.

Only thing I'd add is double check the minimum clearances before ordering a tube heater
Take into account anything that might get parked under it

 

[RedMF40]

Look, if you want cheap up front, go with the torpedo heater. It will heat the shop up fairly quickly on those evenings you want to work in there. Downside is that the diesel or kerosene is expensive as a fuel source, it gives off a bit of an oder and they are loud. Ignore what the people are saying about them plugging up or melting down running on diesel. If they are rated for that, you are fine as long as you use clean fuel.

It is possible you could convert a propane one to natural gas, but you will need a kit specifically for the unit. The kit will have the correctly sized orifice and the proper spring for the gas valve. You will also need a gas pressure gauge rated in inches of water column to adjust for the proper pressure. This is not a situation where you can just wing it and hope for the best. Natural gas operates at about 1/3 the pressure propane does and both pressures are a fraction of a psi, so you need to do it right.

But the best option, in my professional opinion (I've been a HVAC guy for 40 + years so as they say, I know a thing or two because I've seen a thing or two) is the radiant tube heater or a hanging convection heater like a Modine Hot Dawg. Both come ready to go on natural gas and are not condensing furnaces so you don't have to worry about a condensate drain freezing up or emptying a pail of water if the shop doesn't have any plumbing. Of the two, I would prefer the radiant tube because that heats the floor, the bench, your tools and what you are working on directly instead of heating the air which then heats those things as the convection heater does. I would make certain that the tube heater has a low voltage control system as some are designed for line voltage control. This important because of what I'm going to suggest next, that you incorporate a programmable thermostat that allows you to bring the heat on for an hour or two before you want to work in there, which will have things nice and warm by when you do.

Whatever you decide, I would also recommend keeping the shop heated to at least 40 degrees, it's better for the structure and everything you keep in there.

Can the Modine Hot Dawg be converted to propane? I have the same situation as the OP.

 

[showcrop]

Unvented gas heaters also put a Lot of moisture in a shop.
Learned that with the high efficiency furnace I put in. In addition to the steam that is exhausted out the PVC pipe to the outside they have a drain on them.
I ran that drain into a 5 gallon pail in the closet of my little shop office - which I always keep above freezing. If I am running the furnace regularly I have to empty the pail often. Like every other day. That's a lot of moisture that will condense on cold tools and machines and cause rust.

I had kept a humidity meter in my shop for awhile to keep track of it. It was elevated but compared to most of the year still low, and since I keep it at 55 and when not there and rarely higher than 65, I never get any condensation, and it is much easier on my skin and sinuses.

 

[RedMF40]

Can the Modine Hot Dawg be converted to propane? I have the same situation as the OP.

I checked their website, looks like all the information I need. The prices don't look too horrible bad.

 

[circus]

Can the Modine Hot Dawg be converted to propane? I have the same situation as the OP.

If you have natural gas available, like the OP, converting to propane would likely double your fuel cost.
To the m16ty.
If you just want radiant heat for a couple hours without heating the whole place, check out a cheap radiant kerosene heater.
Kerosene is expensive but there's no smell after warmup, silent, a gallon lasts 12 hours and the heater still works if the power go's out. Saved me during a week of subzero weather waiting for parts to fix my furnace.

 

[Russ from MN]

Natural gas! This is similar to what I have, I think mine is only 35,000 btu, heats my little shop just fine! I installed it myself, and it's been running fine for 16 years. They can be bought at big box stores or online.

Mr. Heater F260550 Big Maxx MHU50NG Natural Gas Unit Heater,Black​

https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F260550-MHU50NG-Natural/dp/B00LWW7V7K/ref=asc_df_B00LWW7V7K?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80470559180566&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=43436&hvtargid=pla-4584070137948864&th=1

 

[Brown David]

Look, if you want cheap up front, go with the torpedo heater. It will heat the shop up fairly quickly on those evenings you want to work in there. Downside is that the diesel or kerosene is expensive as a fuel source, it gives off a bit of an oder and they are loud. Ignore what the people are saying about them plugging up or melting down running on diesel. If they are rated for that, you are fine as long as you use clean fuel.

It is possible you could convert a propane one to natural gas, but you will need a kit specifically for the unit. The kit will have the correctly sized orifice and the proper spring for the gas valve. You will also need a gas pressure gauge rated in inches of water column to adjust for the proper pressure. This is not a situation where you can just wing it and hope for the best. Natural gas operates at about 1/3 the pressure propane does and both pressures are a fraction of a psi, so you need to do it right.

But the best option, in my professional opinion (I've been a HVAC guy for 40 + years so as they say, I know a thing or two because I've seen a thing or two) is the radiant tube heater or a hanging convection heater like a Modine Hot Dawg. Both come ready to go on natural gas and are not condensing furnaces so you don't have to worry about a condensate drain freezing up or emptying a pail of water if the shop doesn't have any plumbing. Of the two, I would prefer the radiant tube because that heats the floor, the bench, your tools and what you are working on directly instead of heating the air which then heats those things as the convection heater does. I would make certain that the tube heater has a low voltage control system as some are designed for line voltage control. This important because of what I'm going to suggest next, that you incorporate a programmable thermostat that allows you to bring the heat on for an hour or two before you want to work in there, which will have things nice and warm by when you do.

Whatever you decide, I would also recommend keeping the shop heated to at least 40 degrees, it's better for the structure and everything you keep in there.

I know very little about the things you spoke of there, all my heating is done with wood.

However, if I were to ask advice on those topics, you sure sound like a guy I should talk to.

Great post, one of the best I've seen here.

 

[Russ from MN]

If you have natural gas available, like the OP, converting to propane would likely double your fuel cost.
To the m16ty.
If you just want radiant heat for a couple hours without heating the whole place, check out a cheap radiant kerosene heater.
Kerosene is expensive but there's no smell after warmup, silent, a gallon lasts 12 hours and the heater still works if the power go's out. Saved me during a week of subzero weather waiting for parts to fix my furnace.
View attachment 136674

I think kerosene would be a very expensive way to heat, unless you can buy it in bulk, I just saw 5-gallon cans in TSC for $60! Electric would be much cheaper and no smell.

 

[circus]

I think kerosene would be a very expensive way to heat, unless you can buy it in bulk, I just saw 5-gallon cans in TSC for $60! Electric would be much cheaper and no smell.

Fleet Farm sells kerosene from a auto service (gasoline) pump for $5 a gallon, 35% cheaper than electricity. It's fail safe, if electricity go's out you still have heat.

 

[Eman85]

I've had kerosene heaters and torpedo heaters, I'd rather be cold then deal with them. Don't know what work you do in your shop but if you use any flammables like gas or thinners flame heaters on the floor are not good. Everyone is careful until and accident happens. I know of 2 people that spilled gas while working with kerosene heaters for heat. 1 was very lucky that someone else was there and knew where the extinguisher was so damage was minimal. One was alone and lost the vehicle and the garage along with getting burns.

 

[circus]

I've had kerosene heaters and torpedo heaters, I'd rather be cold then deal with them.

My heat comes from gas furnaces and solar but when all else fails, no matter what, the kerosene heater works. Think Texas back in 2021. That said, I haven't used it in three years.
You have to be careful with any space heater.

 

[ss55]

If you have natural gas available, like the OP, converting to propane would likely double your fuel cost.
To the m16ty.
If you just want radiant heat for a couple hours without heating the whole place, check out a cheap radiant kerosene heater.
Kerosene is expensive but there's no smell after warmup, silent, a gallon lasts 12 hours and the heater still works if the power go's out. Saved me during a week of subzero weather waiting for parts to fix my furnace.
View attachment 136674

We dealt with a kerosene heater during a five day power outage after an ice storm, the house stank of kerosene fumes for weeks afterward.

 

[RedMF40]

If you have natural gas available, like the OP, converting to propane would likely double your fuel cost.
To the m16ty.
If you just want radiant heat for a couple hours without heating the whole place, check out a cheap radiant kerosene heater.
Kerosene is expensive but there's no smell after warmup, silent, a gallon lasts 12 hours and the heater still works if the power go's out. Saved me during a week of subzero weather waiting for parts to fix my furnace.
View attachment 136674

No natural gas here which is a crying shame because a main transmission line is out in the road. They don’t run individual house services off that line.

 

[circus]

We dealt with a kerosene heater during a five day power outage after an ice storm, the house stank of kerosene fumes for weeks afterward.

I found the radiant heaters don't need constant adjustments like the convection ones. The fuel level, under the wick, stays constant as the fuel is consumed. For no smell ignite outside and occasionally service the wick.
Bet your glad you had it.

 

[Bill in Colo]

Next door neighbor is large hay producer, he has used a waste oil heater for past 30 years with little trouble. He is very careful of what goes into the waste oil storage tank.

 

[Ray,IN]

Some folks need to look-up and read the definition of radiant heat and infrared heat.
I have a 150K kerosene torpedo heater in my garage. I don't need to heat the entire 43,000 cu/ft of my garage, just where I'm working. Diesel fuel has a a bad odor and aggravates my COPD, I only burn kerosene.

 

[cjunrau]

Next door neighbor is large hay producer, he has used a waste oil heater for past 30 years with little trouble. He is very careful of what goes into the waste oil storage tank.

Would you happen to know what type of waste oil furnace he has?

 

[Hobo,NC]

I live way out in the country, but right off a main thru road. Which is why I have natural gas available.

I already use NG at my house the best thing I ever did was run NG to my shop. The gas company installed a high demand meter on my house so I pay just one meter fee. About 10/12 years ago it cost me around 1K to properly run NG to my shop it cut my shop heat cost in haft.

 

[Keith True]

I bought a new Clean Burn waste oil furnace in 1986.I'm still using it.I used to make a lot of oil.Works great,keep after it just a little,watch the oil,and it will last.The new ones are all computer/chip controlled,and while they work nice,I would never be able to fix them.Biggest thing with them is that they can not be just used at will.They have a pre-heater in them,and that has to be kept on at all times.For a cold start you can run the pre-heater for about an hour first.But,the oil supply has to be maintained at about 50 degrees at all times.If you're not prepared to heat 24/7 then a waste oil furnace is not for you.It burns # 2 just fine,but it is piggy on that.Those furnaces were intended to dispose of oil,not conserve it.