Jacobsen GT10 Right Angle Drive failure

BillET

Member
After installing a new drive belt and adjusting the clutch I discovered the small 90° drive under the shifter was no longer providing much output. In creeper I got it and the trailer full of leaves back to my shed so I work on it. The little unit is about 3.5 " on a side. My first question is how to disconnect it from the flex coupler that is connected to a short drive shaft to the engine's flex coupler? After I get it out I will search for a usable replacement. I got this tractor back in '78 when it had an exhaust blockage at my Mom's Tupperware warehouse. They bought a new one and she gave me this old one. I have a 2 acre lot and only use it to pull my cart and trailer to move stuff like leaves, mulch and firewood. This the first problem I have had since '87 so it has been a great little tractor. With chains on it I can pull full loads of firewood up my steep back yard grade which a smaller lawn mower couldn't handle. Greatly appreciate any info on how to remove this drive unit and replace it.
 
Is it likely I can find a replacement for this right angle drives unit for this old 10hp Jacobsen or should I just give up and dump it?
 
I would check search for , used lawn tractor parts. GT10 was offered under various names if my searching is correct. Ford White Jacobsen plus more. I think it is a keeper. Good luck.
 
I would check search for , used lawn tractor parts. GT10 was offered under various names if my searching is correct. Ford White Jacobsen plus more. I think it is a keeper. Good luck.
Thanks for the replies. I'm now searching for that right angle drives. I heated up the drive to flex joint until the rubber flex started to smoke with no luck. I Will disconnect the flex and try again when it warms up a bit.
 
Thanks for the info reference
It was good to see the reference to the right angle drive and diagram. It must be connected to the flex coupling via a key way since there is no sign of any set sscrews.Until separated the two parts are trapped between the cubes of the frame. 😒
Greatly appreciate the advice and info you guys have provided. I will update as I have more success.🙂
 
Thanks for the info reference
It was good to see the reference to the right angle drive and diagram. It must be connected to the flex coupling via a key way since there is no sign of any set sscrews.Until separated the two parts are trapped between the cubes of the frame. 😒
Greatly appreciate the advice and info you guys have provided. I will update as I have more success.🙂
I have several of the Ford tube-frame tractors; all are hydro machines but I do have two LGT-100 parts tractors, one of which my Dad bought new in 1972.
So, I have the Right-Angle drives from both of those tractors plus another that I picked up at a swap meet.
In addition, I have a Right-Angle drive from a single-stage snow blower which appears to be the same unit.
None have any serious gear back lash.
If you're interested, I would pick out the best of the lot and ship it to you for 30 bucks which should cover
any shipping costs with a little left over to cover my time for packing it up.
I'm 84 now and it is unlikely (read never gonna happen) that I will ever do anything with all these Ford parts.
BTW, these Jake made tractors are extremely durable and almost bullet proof.
I have a 1972 LGT-125 which is the 12HP Hydro model that I bought 40 years ago for $75 and I have used it for bulldozing and plowing snow every year since then. I also have a sickle bar mower that gets used pretty regular in the Summer time most years.
That is a very handy little accessory. It mows up to 90 deg vert and 45 deg below grade which works very well for mowing banks.
The machine has been pretty much trouble free all those years but I do maintain it pretty well.
It ain't purdy but it is one of the most useful pieces of equipment I have ever owned.

Plowing Snow Little Ford 1-29-24.JPG
 

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I did a little research and found the Ford part number;.
They call it a Gear Assembly, Right Angle and list the Part # as: TEC-794072.
I assume that number coincides with Tecumseh's number.
BTW, even though as I recall, the Snowblower box appeared, without close examination, to be the same, it has a different part # (7941004).
 
BillET, Does your tractor drive in other gears? If it does then the right angle drive is not the problem. I would suggest tightening the belt a little more. I had a similar problem with my tube frame Oliver when I got it trying to climb a steep hill and the belt slipped in creeper or 1st gear. I shifted to 2nd and it made the climb. I hope this helps.
 
I have several of the Ford tube-frame tractors; all are hydro machines but I do have two LGT-100 parts tractors, one of which my Dad bought new in 1972.
So, I have the Right-Angle drives from both of those tractors plus another that I picked up at a swap meet.
In addition, I have a Right-Angle drive from a single-stage snow blower which appears to be the same unit.
None have any serious gear back lash.
If you're interested, I would pick out the best of the lot and ship it to you for 30 bucks which should cover
any shipping costs with a little left over to cover my time for packing it up.
I'm 84 now and it is unlikely (read never gonna happen) that I will ever do anything with all these Ford parts.
BTW, these Jake made tractors are extremely durable and almost bullet proof.
I have a 1972 LGT-125 which is the 12HP Hydro model that I bought 40 years ago for $75 and I have used it for bulldozing and plowing snow every year since then. I also have a sickle bar mower that gets used pretty regular in the Summer time most years.
That is a very handy little accessory. It mows up to 90 deg vert and 45 deg below grade which works very well for mowing banks.
The machine has been pretty much trouble free all those years but I do maintain it pretty well.
It ain't purdy but it is one of the most useful pieces of equipment I have ever owned.

View attachment 136691
Brian
Boy, I sure do appreciate the offer for a working right angle drives. Just let me know how to pay you via check or PayPal. I'm taking the flex point apart in hopes of tapping the right angle's shaft out. I will turn 84 next week so I'm trying to get this GT10 working again rather than buying a used 500 or 700 series John Deere. Other than changing oil and hitting the front grease fillings it has been care free. But I only use it to pull a cart or trailer I use to buy local yards of mulch.
 
Just went on the computer now so I'll go out to the barn tomorrow to round up those gear boxes.
I'll probably send you a direct message then.
Brian
I'm wondering if you have really diagnosed your problem....If you can pull your trailer in low gear but not a higher gear it would seem the gears may not be at fault but rather a sheared pin or key which is allowing slippage.


Ford LGT Snow Blower Gear Box.jpg
Ford LGT-100 Right Angle Gearbox.jpg
ppage.
In any event, I did find the right angle gearboxes and my offer still stands.

The gearbox from the snowblower is the same EXCEPT the output shaft is 3/4" instead of 7/8" as in the tractor gearboxes.

Both gearboxes have zero gear backlash which leads me to believe they are built from good materials.

I took a couple of good pictures....what are my chances of posting them?

Well, Son of a Gun!!
 
BillET, Does your tractor drive in other gears? If it does then the right angle drive is not the problem. I would suggest tightening the belt a little more. I had a similar problem with my tube frame Oliver when I got it trying to climb a steep hill and the belt slipped in creeper or 1st gear. I shifted to 2nd and it made the climb. I hope this helps.
When I realized I wasn't moving as expected after letting out the clutch pedal in second gear I looked down at the right angle drive. I still had the cover off from replacing the drive belt. I could see the input shaft turning from the flex coupler but there was no turning of the side pulley wheel. I put the shifter into the first creeper gear and got enough torque out to get the rig over to my 16 by 24 foot shed before the snow started. I have since uncoupled and emptied the trailed with the 2 yards of leaves. Monday or Tuesday I will see if I can move the tractor into the shed to make it more comfortable to work on. I have heat in my shed. The reverse gear is a bit high and I have a bit of grade to get it up into the shed but the warmth will be worth it. Will beat working on the ground outside. It will be a nice little project to get that drive out and replace it. This tractor meets all my " prime mover" requirements so I really want to get this drive line working as before. Thanks to all or your continued support.
 
I'm wondering if you have really diagnosed your problem....If you can pull your trailer in low gear but not a higher gear it would seem the gears may not be at fault but rather a sheared pin or key which is allowing slippage.


View attachment 137226View attachment 137228ppage.
In any event, I did find the right angle gearboxes and my offer still stands.

The gearbox from the snowblower is the same EXCEPT the output shaft is 3/4" instead of 7/8" as in the tractor gearboxes.

Both gearboxes have zero gear backlash which leads me to believe they are built from good materials.

I took a couple of good pictures....what are my chances of posting them?

Well, Son of a Gun!!

I'm wondering if you have really diagnosed your problem....If you can pull your trailer in low gear but not a higher gear it would seem the gears may not be at fault but rather a sheared pin or key which is allowing slippage.


View attachment 137226View attachment 137228ppage.
In any event, I did find the right angle gearboxes and my offer still stands.

The gearbox from the snowblower is the same EXCEPT the output shaft is 3/4" instead of 7/8" as in the tractor gearboxes.

Both gearboxes have zero gear backlash which leads me to believe they are built from good materials.

I took a couple of good pictures....what are my chances of posting them?

Well, Son of a Gun!!
It looks like the white one is the one I need. Mine must be connected to the flex coupler with a Woodruff key but it isn’t coming apart easy. As I said above I will try to get the tractor into the shed and take apart the coupler to try to tap the shaft out of the coupler if there is a hole to get a drift pin into. I'll send a photo next time.
 
It looks like the white one is the one I need. Mine must be connected to the flex coupler with a Woodruff key but it isn’t coming apart easy. As I said above I will try to get the tractor into the shed and take apart the coupler to try to tap the shaft out of the coupler if there is a hole to get a drift pin into. I'll send a photo next time.
The white one is off a snowblower.....the blue one is off a Ford LGT-100.
Like I said, the output shaft on the blower box is 3/4" while the output shaft on the tractor box is 7/8". The input shafts on both are 7/8".
The blower output shaft used a pin to hold a universal joint on the output shaft, hence the hole you see in the picture.
Is one of the gears missing some of it's teeth?
It seems to me that if the gears failed, the tractor wouldn't move at all or if it did there would be a lot of racket coming from the gear box.
If the gears are good maybe one of the keys securing a gear has sheared?
I would just hate to see you expend all this effort if the gearbox is not really the problem.
The tractor box uses a woodruff key on each shaft but I don't think they are exactly the same size.
I don't recall if there was a set screw holding the driveshaft "rag joint" to the gear box input shaft but I assume so.
Since you apparently have the cover off the gearbox, it would be nice if you could send a picture of the gears.
 
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The white one is off a snowblower.....the blue one is off a Ford LGT-100.
Like I said, the output shaft on the blower box is 3/4" while the output shaft on the tractor box is 7/8". The input shafts on both are 7/8".
The blower output shaft used a pin to hold a universal joint on the output shaft, hence the hole you see in the picture.
Is one of the gears missing some of it's teeth?
It seems to me that if the gears failed, the tractor wouldn't move at all or if it did there would be a lot of racket coming from the gear box.
If the gears are good maybe one of the keys securing a gear has sheared?
I would just hate to see you expend all this effort if the gearbox is not really the problem.
The tractor box uses a woodruff key on each shaft but I don't think they are exactly the same size.
I don't recall if there was a set screw holding the driveshaft "rag joint" to the gear box input shaft but I assume so.
Since you apparently have the cover off the gearbox, it would be nice if you could send a picture of the gears.
I have the tractor in my shed. I will send photos in the morning.
 
It looks like the white one is the one I need. Mine must be connected to the flex coupler with a Woodruff key but it isn’t coming apart easy. As I said above I will try to get the tractor into the shed and take apart the coupler to try to tap the shaft out of the coupler if there is a hole to get a drift pin into. I'll send a photo next time.
 
I have attached a couple photos I took the coupler apart and heated up the joint. I got it to move and can see the start of the groove for the key. After a lot of failures trying to get that flex coupler off I have removed the drive shaft so I can get a punch centered on the end of the angle drivers input shaft. A few taps and no success. I will restart this the first week of January. We have a road trip for my sister-on--law's 80th birthday on Friday in Georgia after Christmas here in Maryland .Attached I hope are a photo of the tractor and a top view of the angle drives. You are correct it is not that white one you showed above but the other one. I will update this thread the first week of January after I have hopefully removed the flex joint half from the angle drives.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all, Bill
 
I have attached a couple photos I took the coupler apart and heated up the joint. I got it to move and can see the start of the groove for the key. After a lot of failures trying to get that flex coupler off I have removed the drive shaft so I can get a punch centered on the end of the angle drivers input shaft. A few taps and no success. I will restart this the first week of January. We have a road trip for my sister-on--law's 80th birthday on Friday in Georgia after Christmas here in Maryland .Attached I hope are a photo of the tractor and a top view of the angle drives. You are correct it is not that white one you showed above but the other one. I will update this thread the first week of January after I have hopefully removed the flex joint half from the angle drives.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all, Bill
 
I have attached a couple photos I took the coupler apart and heated up the joint. I got it to move and can see the start of the groove for the key. After a lot of failures trying to get that flex coupler off I have removed the drive shaft so I can get a punch centered on the end of the angle drivers input shaft. A few taps and no success. I will restart this the first week of January. We have a road trip for my sister-on--law's 80th birthday on Friday in Georgia after Christmas here in Maryland .Attached I hope are a photo of the tractor and a top view of the angle drives. You are correct it is not that white one you showed above but the other one. I will update this thread the first week of January after I have hopefully removed the flex joint half from the angle drives.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all, Bill
There is a problem with picture posting at present, admin is working on it. No pictures in either of your last two posts (duplicates) here.

Try reducing the picture to a small size, that has worked in some cases..
 
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