Allis G engine rebuild.

[Rodney51Cub]

I am rebuilding a G for my cousin. Had it bored .060 over. It was already beyond limits at .030 over. Try to put pistons in from the bottom like the service manual said but there was not enough taper left to walk the rings in. Tried a ring compressor but could not keep it squared up to get the oil rings in. I ended up installing rods and pistons in, then pushing the pistons up out the top of the cylinder as far as the rod would let them. I then installed rings on the pistons, then the ring compressor and pushed the piston back in. Worked good. Hope this helps someone else when they rebuild a G.

 

[Duner Wi]

I have never work on AC G so please humor me. What prevents you from installing the piston, rings and rods from the top assembled ??

 

[JoeM(GA)]

Big end of rod is larger than the cylinder bore

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

Haven't done that on mine but I think you put the pistons in from the bottom without the rings then push them out the top and put the rings on.

 

[Duner Wi]

I assume rod caps separate at 9 and 3. Renault had a push rod engine circa 1960s that rods split approximately 1:30 and 7:30. You could install assemblies from the top. Toro used a version of this engine their Zero turns at one time.

 

[JoeM(GA)]

The extremely early N-62’s had an angled cap, still not sure if it would feed down the bore, I believe it would be close, but possible with them. Not real sure why Continental did that change.

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

I assume rod caps separate at 9 and 3. Renault had a push rod engine circa 1960s that rods split approximately 1:30 and 7:30. You could install assemblies from the top. Toro used a version of this engine their Zero turns at one time.

Some of the N63 rods split at 45 degrees.