Best all-around Jack?

[RedMF40]

I’m looking to carry one jack that’ll work for my truck and trailer. I’ve had some incidents where I called roadside assistance provided through my insurance, would rather be prepared to handle tire changes on my own if safe to do so. Thinking a heavy-duty bottle jack? Open to suggestions, thanks in advance.

(Recent pic is my 10-20 loaded up and ready for its new home).

 

[Jim.ME]

From your picture I don't see any reason you need a "heavy-duty bottle jack". A regular Harbor Freight type 12-ton jack will easily handle anything in your picture. You could get a low profile 12-ton as well if you want as well. I carry a regular profile 12-ton jack and a 6x6 ramp block. If needed the good trailer tire can be pulled or backed up onto the block reducing the jacking required. Having a good foot square 1/2" steel plate is helpful to use as a base under the jack. Carry a couple pieces of 2x6 and 4X6 good blocking as well. Your pickup should already have the manufacturer's jack to use on it, so the hydraulic jack(s) is/are a supplement to that. JMHO

It's not tied down with what I would use or the way I would do it, but I am just going to mention a couple things. You really should use softeners where the straps are through the wheels. Pretty easy for straps to get chaffed or cut with no softeners to protect them. Steel deck and steel wheels, I suggest some plywood or belting between them.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

The low profile jack Jim.ME suggests would do nicely if the budget is only one jack plus an cutting assortment of cribbing would do nicely couple 2x6 4x4 a 6x6 if you have some around couple of short lengths. Those little jacks are handy and have more travel than you think. You can always set it down and recrib and make sure everything is solid too this way.

 

[Ericp351]

Your Ford jack should have served. Did you try it? I,d use what I brought, then upgrade as reqd. Bum a cel phone and call if and only if needed. I like to keep the tow man free to help the chick's. If you want a bottle jack, recomnd a blackhawk or Dayton. Last time my 6x6 thought a tread, at 40kgross, my 12 ton Dayton handled it with aid of some cribbing. Failed tread now protects front bumper from scratches.

 

[Blackhole49]

While hoping I never need it, this jack has done everything I needed it to on vehicles and trailers the few times I needed it. It is light and easy to maneuver. I carry a couple of short 2x6s for gravel.

https://www.harborfreight.com/15-ton-low-profile-aluminum-racing-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-64545.html

 

[Jim.ME]

I should have posted this in my earlier post.

You should clarify what "a heavy-duty bottle jack" to you? To me it is going to be 20-ton to 30-ton capacity and larger.

From the looks of the trailer wheels, you have a 7000-pound class trailer. In theory a 4-ton (8000 pound) jack would lift the entire trailer and allowed load. You will only be lifting a section of the trailer or truck at any given time. A 12-ton bottle jack and a few pieces of blocking have easily handled any flats I have had on a 1-ton class dually and 21K gooseneck even loaded. The 12-ton regular and low-profile bottle jacks can be purchased for about $25 each when on sale. Those have reached the point of being throw-away items compared to the rebuildable brand names of years past.

I don't disagree with having a hydraulic jack on board (and think it is a good idea), but as posted above, your truck's factory jack should work. It can be used with a hydraulic jack as well lift with the hydraulic, hold with the truck jack if needed to reposition the hydraulic jack. Having a steel plate(s) and some appropriate blocking can be as important as the jack.

 

[Tgrasher]

In addition to the jack and blocking, a battery powered impact makes changing a tire so much easier. When I trailer a tractor I throw anything I might need in the bed of the truck. I'm a believer that if you bring it, you won't need it. I made a trip to get a tractor and had to change two flats along an interstate, cars and semi-trucks whizzing by like it was the Indianapolis 500. Said a lot of prayers that day.

 

[Texasmark]

From your picture I don't see any reason you need a "heavy-duty bottle jack". A regular Harbor Freight type 12-ton jack will easily handle anything in your picture. You could get a low profile 12-ton as well if you want as well. I carry a regular profile 12-ton jack and a 6x6 ramp block. If needed the good trailer tire can be pulled or backed up onto the block reducing the jacking required. Having a good foot square 1/2" steel plate is helpful to use as a base under the jack. Carry a couple pieces of 2x6 and 4X6 good blocking as well. Your pickup should already have the manufacturer's jack to use on it, so the hydraulic jack(s) is/are a supplement to that. JMHO

It's not tied down with what I would use or the way I would do it, but I am just going to mention a couple things. You really should use softeners where the straps are through the wheels. Pretty easy for straps to get chaffed or cut with no softeners to protect them. Steel deck and steel wheels, I suggest some plywood or belting between them.

I've used the jacks mentioned here for years jacking up my house (peir and beam) and they work great. What you need to include is some sort of expanded surface area if you are off the pavement on the shoulder of the road. A 2' square piece of 3/8" steel plate would work just fine, be sturdy enough and not a problem to store or manage.....I use one under my house jacks on bare dirt.

On which jack to purchase, the lower the tonnage the faster the jack will operate for a given physical size jack.

 

[Jim.ME]

I've used the jacks mentioned here for years jacking up my house (peir and beam) and they work great. What you need to include is some sort of expanded surface area if you are off the pavement on the shoulder of the road. A 2' square piece of 3/8" steel plate would work just fine, be sturdy enough and not a problem to store or manage.....I use one under my house jacks on bare dirt.

On which jack to purchase, the lower the tonnage the faster the jack will operate for a given physical size jack.

As I posted I use a square foot of 1/2" plate, which is more than 4 times the footprint of the jack base.

 

[RedMF40]

Thanks for the suggestions. By “heavy duty,” I just meant a jack that wouldn’t break if I used it more than once. The truck jack is the screw type that can be difficult but not impossible to position and get the crank handle into place. I thought a hydraulic bottle jack would be better for both truck and trailer.

In my area drivers routinely run off the road and hit disabled vehicles. I call roadside assistance if I can’t move to a safe area. Otherwise I’ll deal with it myself if I can get far enough away from traffic.

Good suggestion on protecting the ratchet straps from fraying. Tractor made it 100 miles, up hills and down, stayed put. I did have 1/2” plywood under the steel wheels. I carry a good amount of blocking to support a jack if needed and I have a piece of diamond plate I can cut down to size and carry it in the bed. Hopefully won’t need any of this as all tires both truck and trailer are fairly recent.

 

[DPittman]

I only know two, one of them ain’t worth the stamp to put on the envelope to ship him out of here. The other is my cousin, he’s good people.
There was my father in law. Been gone 30 years now and I still miss him.

 

[MeanGene1]

I used to take my floor jack when hauling stuff on trailers (one of my trailers is very similar to yours, it is a low deck for drag race cars) but I nowadays just take a Hi-Lift jack with a few blocks that will just hook under the trailer side, tongue, whatever. I recently drug home a JD 40-U with a loader on that car trailer, and the winch clutch started slipping when I was almost there. I was able to lay the Hi-Lift down sideways and give the winch a little boost, a few inches at a time, but it got done

 

[Jim.ME]

Thanks for the suggestions. By “heavy duty,” I just meant a jack that wouldn’t break if I used it more than once. The truck jack is the screw type that can be difficult but not impossible to position and get the crank handle into place. I thought a hydraulic bottle jack would be better for both truck and trailer.

In my area drivers routinely run off the road and hit disabled vehicles. I call roadside assistance if I can’t move to a safe area. Otherwise I’ll deal with it myself if I can get far enough away from traffic.

Good suggestion on protecting the ratchet straps from fraying. Tractor made it 100 miles, up hills and down, stayed put. I did have 1/2” plywood under the steel wheels. I carry a good amount of blocking to support a jack if needed and I have a piece of diamond plate I can cut down to size and carry it in the bed. Hopefully won’t need any of this as all tires both truck and trailer are fairly recent.

Your definition of "heavy duty" and mine are a good bit different.

I have several 12-ton HF jacks that have had repeated uses. I don't consider them heavy duty, just standard duty. The days of the Walker, Hein Werner, and other such quality brand jacks are gone. It is getting hard to find rebuild kits for them and often the kits cost as much as or more than the HF type jacks, when you do find them.

For a flat tire on a multiple axle trailer, depending on suspension travel, pulling or backing a good tire (on the adjacent axle) up on the ramp block eliminates or minimizes the need to do any jacking on the axle with the flat.

 

[ss55]

I’m looking to carry one jack that’ll work for my truck and trailer. I’ve had some incidents where I called roadside assistance provided through my insurance, would rather be prepared to handle tire changes on my own if safe to do so. Thinking a heavy-duty bottle jack? Open to suggestions, thanks in advance.

(Recent pic is my 10-20 loaded up and ready for its new home). View attachment 140207

The pickup probably already has a good heavy scissors jack as standard equipment. Digging it out of a fully packed cab can be the most difficult part of using one.

A scissors jack will get much lower than a bottle jack almost eliminating the need to dig a hole to get the jack under an axle, especially on frozen ground. A battery powered drill or impact can power a scissors jack with the right simple adapter. A short 2 X 12 makes a good base to support a jack on soft ground and is not too heavy to haul around.

Don't forget to block/chock another wheel or two for safety.

 

[Oregon Tractor Jack]

I bought a bottle jack that was rated for my loaded trailer weight with a little extra capacity. I made sure it would fit under the frame and the axles correctly. In addition I fabricated some jacking pads out of wood for soft ground. Tried it all out before I went on my first trip. All that stays in the trailer/trailers at all times.

OTJ

 

[Mule Meat]

... but I nowadays just take a Hi-Lift jack with a few blocks that will just hook under the trailer side, tongue, whatever.

Where do you place your Hi-Lift jack on a newer trucks built after bumper jacks went away? Walk up to any make or model of pickup truck on any lot and about the only place to use a Hi-Lift jack on one would be the fender wells..
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I prefer carrying a low profile floor jack and a piece of 3/4" plywood in case I'm on a gravel or dirt road.

 

[Tony in SD]

Back when I worked out of a triple axle toy hauler, I carried a pneumatic bottle jack and a piece of corugated cardboard to lay on while working.. In my case, I had a generator and an air compressor on board. Made changing tires easy especially operating the jack under the middle axle.

 

[rustred]

I’m looking to carry one jack that’ll work for my truck and trailer. I’ve had some incidents where I called roadside assistance provided through my insurance, would rather be prepared to handle tire changes on my own if safe to do so. Thinking a heavy-duty bottle jack? Open to suggestions, thanks in advance.

(Recent pic is my 10-20 loaded up and ready for its new home). View attachment 140207

and to answer your question i say the jackall is one of the best all around jacks. and with a load on a trailer you can jack on the frame and take most of the weight off then put a hyd. jack under the axle. always carry these two in my truck pulling a trailer. plus a couple short planks . been carrying a jackall all my life in the back of my trucks. i always travel prepared, including booster cables and tools.

 

[Phill Tibbetts]

I agree with Mule Meat. A floor jack will go much lower than a bottle jack. Take a plate for under the jack and piece of 2x6 and 4x4 for blocking if you need it. I don't even bother with POS jacks that come with vehicles today.

 

[RedMF40]

I only know two, one of them ain’t worth the stamp to put on the envelope to ship him out of here. The other is my cousin, he’s good people.
There was my father in law. Been gone 30 years now and I still miss him.

I had an Uncle Jack. I didn't know him well but I liked him. He and his family didn't come to visit often since they lived some distance away and we weren't really on their usual path. Whole life spent as a Detroit auto worker back in the day. Wish I'd gotten to know him better but I do keep in touch with my cousins (his kids).