Tranny fluid for a 2135

[MF2135tn]

Does UTF work for the old gal?
H/L shuttle shift
On the side of Tranny case #897-719-M2
TIA

 

[Jim.ME]

Does UTF work for the old gal?
H/L shuttle shift
On the side of Tranny case #897-719-M2
TIA

The casting # really doesn't have much of anything to do with the fluid it needs.

Your Operator's manual will have the lubricant specs you need.

I believe you need a UTHF meeting the Massey Ferguson M1129A spec. It should be listed somewhere on the container as meeting Massey Ferguson M1129A. Permatran and Permatran III supersede it and should be ok to use. (A UTHF meeting the John Deere JDM, J20C spec is generally acceptable as well.)

 

[MF2135tn]

Thanks Jim the TSC has their universal UTF that states both of the manufacturers numbers

 

[MF2135tn]

Hey Jim you’ve been real good at responding and I appreciate that.
Question sorry long read!
the previous owner had mentioned he couldn’t get the fill but loose and instead filled through the plate on top see picture.
So I wanted to fill and stupid me didn’t try the fill nut(which came off fairly easily!)
Anyway I fastened down the top plate put 4 gals of fluid in, at the full line. Went to start her up and got blasted with fluid from the top plate coming straight at my leg! I’m just glad I had stepped up into the cab or it would have been a face shot!
He had some grey sealant generously applied around it, and I compromised the seal obviously.
Question is this:
when I loosened the two bolts on the top plate I had to scrape the outside blobs of the previous gray sealant off. there is probably a gasket replacement for that high pressure area, if I know what to look for.
And what sealant is good for high pressure?
Thanks

 

[Jim.ME]

No sealant should be needed. There is a pipe (tube) that brings pressurized oil up there. On each end is an O-ring and washer (backup ring) the lower end fits in a bore in the hydraulic pump and the upper end fits in a bore in that small cover, If the O-rings and washers are good and, in the bores, it is sealed.

 

[MF2135tn]

No sealant should be needed. There is a pipe (tube) that brings pressurized oil up there. On each end is an O-ring and washer (backup ring) the lower end fits in a bore in the hydraulic pump and the upper end fits in a bore in that small cover, If the O-rings and washers are good and, in the bores, it is sealed.

View attachment 142881

So when I removes the bolts the plate only came up enough to spin the plate a quarter turn and I didn’t know if I should get it to come up anymore? so there’s a pipe that comes up internally? And to get the plate to come up further do I need to back out the Allen head screw #2 on the side?

 

[Jim.ME]

So when I removes the bolts the plate only came up enough to spin the plate a quarter turn and I didn’t know if I should get it to come up anymore? so there’s a pipe that comes up internally? And to get the plate to come up further do I need to back out the Allen head screw #2 on the side?

I believe that is a pipe plug not a set screw. That cover should lift of, maybe use some twisting action as well.

If the pipe comes out with it The pipe needs to be fit back down into place before installing the cover plate. The O-ring and back up washers statuesque on both ends. After getting the pipe back down in place it is advised to check flow through it before putting the cover back on. Do this by cranking the engine with bumping the starter. You do not want it to start so pull the coil wire on a gas or keep the fuel shut off on a diesel. If it puts oil up the tube, put the cover back on.

I suggest getting the correct O-rings and washers from the dealer.

 

[MF2135tn]

Thank you Jim
The diagram is helpful, is there a description of items in the picture to match the numbers. Don’t know if any MF dealers near me. May have to order online.

 

[Jim.ME]

The link below will take you to the AGCO parts website. Once the page has fully loaded, click on "Parts Book". After that loads type MF 2135 (type as I did) in the Search by Model box. It should show you "MF 2135 TRACTOR" as a result. Click on that and it should open the MF 2135 parts book for you. Read descriptions carefully as it covers several variations of the MF2135 tractor.

AGCO parts site.

You should find and acquire copies of the Operator's manual (MF publication # 690684M1) and the Service manual (MF publication # 1448806M1 or M92). You can Check out AGCOpubs for them. This site and many others will have them as well as used OEM ones and reprints on ebay.

AGCOpubs.com

 

[MF2135tn]

Is there a o ring for this recessed return ?

 

[Jim.ME]

Is there a o ring for this recessed return ?

If you checked the parts book, it does not show one. I would put one in there. Get one that fits in that recess, protrudes a bit and doesn't squat out (you don't want it to squeeze out and between the flat area of the cover and the plate (which could hold the plate up a bit). Getting the pipe O-rings and back up washers right are most important as the pipe has pressurized oil in it.

Edit to add: I found a cover plate here and that O-ring is the same as the O-rings on the standpipe. So you need 3O-rings and 2 backup washers to seal the pipe and the cover plate.

 

[MF2135tn]

If you checked the parts book, it does not show one. I would put one in there. Get one that fits in that recess, protrudes a bit and doesn't squat out (you don't want it to squeeze out and between the flat area of the cover and the plate (which could hold the plate up a bit). Getting the pipe O-rings and back up washers right are most important as the pipe has pressurized oil in it.

Edit to add: I found a cover plate here and that O-ring is the same as the O-rings on the standpipe. So you need 3O-rings and 2 backup washers to seal the pipe and the cover plate.

Thanks Jim I did get r done I found a slightly thinner o ring for the recessed opening and replacements for the pipe and slapped it together she’s holding no leaks TUGod.
No to remove the carb and replace with the new one I received. I hadn’t noticed before that the carb bolts upwards through the manifold downward extension. I can get to those two nuts.
The fun will be the cables and breather tube not much wiggle room!
Thanks for the hint to remove the cable from the generator. There was something about a spring or something to be aware of removing the cable though?

 

[Jim.ME]

I don't remember saying anything about a cable on the generator, or removing the carburetor.

 

[MF2135tn]

Sorry wrong person for that reply.
Jim I replaced the elbow screen on the carb. The old elbow was missing the screen!
That may be a contributing reason she starts and runs fine for 15-20 minutes then slowly dies unless you full choke it. Then it may rune for 3-5 and repeats dying.
It feels like starvation of gas?
Everything from tank to carb is suspect if I’m thinking right.

 

[Jim.ME]

The parts book does not show a screen in the elbow at the carburetor! Did you look at the parts book?

Have you removed the sediment bowl base and looked down in the opening where fuel enters from the tank? It is possible to get a built up down inside it around the shutoff valve which restricts fuel flow.

Have you done the regularly recommended fuel flow test? Pull the drain plug out of the carb bowl and catch the fuel that comes out in a pint, or larger, container. After the burst of fuel when the bowl first empties, time how long it takes to collect a pint in the container from the steady flow from the tank through the carb and out the drain.

 

[MF2135tn]

I removed tank, and carb.
New carb came with elbow with screen?
The glass filter bowl had no filter in it and the connection where the bowls base screws into tank had all kinds of sediment and wood chips!!

 

[Jim.ME]

I removed tank, and carb.
New carb came with elbow with screen?
The glass filter bowl had no filter in it and the connection where the bowls base screws into tank had all kinds of sediment and wood chips!!

As I expected, crap in the sediment bowl base. have you worked the valve in and out and blown back from the bawl side to be sure it is clear on the tank side of the valve. That bowl should clean up and be clear. You may need to do some scrubbing of it with carb cleaner or brake cleaner. Get a new screen for it and a gasket.

If you get all the crap, you are showing in your pictures out of the system the screen in the carb elbow will not be a problem. If stuff along the lines of what is in your pictures gets to the elbow screen, it can plug.