Starter issues.

[4020 tractor nut]

So I have discovered a nylon filter just in side the regulating valve where fuel enters. When the screen came out there was a spring and another small part. The part was sideways at the bottom of the screen. All parts were very dirty and gummed up. I don't know which way the small part goes. One end is longer than the other and both ends will fit into the screen. One end has three small rings on it. The other end is short and plain.
Any diagrams would be appreciated or advice would be appreciated.
By the way the filter come out easily with a large easy out.

 

[4020 tractor nut]

Parts are below. Part in question is to the left of the screen.
Screen is being held down by a pick.

 

[used red MN]

Parts are below. Part in question is to the left of the screen.
Screen is being held down by a pick.

Here is a link to the IJP breakdown for your tractor. Messicks Ford 3500 CAV IJP diagram You can view all the parts diagrams for your tractor from that link by selecting other Categories and Diagrams. It is a “modified” parts catalog for a larger dealer in PA named Messicks. The manufacturer Fiat/CNHI/New Holland also has a online parts catalog for your tractor which this dealers version is based on but it is having some technical problems this weekend.
In the event you determine the pump needs professional help I would suggest you contact YT member Dieseltech. He operates a pump repair business in Indiana. Due to him being known for doing very good work at very reasonable prices many on here ship IJPs to him for service.

 

[4020 tractor nut]

A 3500 should not have a starter button. It should have a start position on the key switch.

It did but would not turn over the starter consistently.

 

[used red MN]

It did but would not turn over the starter consistently.

Some guys get the ultimate creep out if something is changed from original on a tractor. To some degree it may be a safety concern due to the fact that your button likely doesn’t utilize the neutral safety switch. Many guys that have been around Fords all their lives take this to heart more than some like myself who grew up around Farmalls that many early models did not have neutral safety switches. I don’t condone changes from original, but accept that sometimes people do what works for them. Just elevate your level of respect for the machine and it’s danger considering how changes made may affect it’s safe operation.

 

[4020 tractor nut]

Some guys get the ultimate creep out if something is changed from original on a tractor. To some degree it may be a safety concern due to the fact that your button likely doesn’t utilize the neutral safety switch. Many guys that have been around Fords all their lives take this to heart more than some like myself who grew up around Farmalls that many early models did not have neutral safety switches. I don’t condone changes from original, but accept that sometimes people do what works for them. Just elevate your level of respect for the machine and it’s danger considering how changes made may affect it’s safe operation.

Hi
I appreciate your advice.
When I start this machine I'm in the seat and have all implements on the ground.
Thanks

 

[used red MN]

Hi
I appreciate your advice.
When I start this machine I'm in the seat and have all implements on the ground.
Thanks

Just an additional comment. Many times an old tractor setting around can be a playground for kids/grandkids etc. which may add to this concern. If this is a possible scenario disconnecting a battery cable can be a preventative measure prior to such opportunities.

 

[4020 tractor nut]

Here is a link to the IJP breakdown for your tractor. Messicks Ford 3500 CAV IJP diagram You can view all the parts diagrams for your tractor from that link by selecting other Categories and Diagrams. It is a “modified” parts catalog for a larger dealer in PA named Messicks. The manufacturer Fiat/CNHI/New Holland also has a online parts catalog for your tractor which this dealers version is based on but it is having some technical problems this weekend.
In the event you determine the pump needs professional help I would suggest you contact YT member Dieseltech. He operates a pump repair business in Indiana. Due to him being known for doing very good work at very reasonable prices many on here ship IJPs to him for service.

Hi,
The diagram helped and I found out that the longer end goes toward the spring. I tried reassembling and
the parts didn’t go back in place. I removed them with a small magnet and I pulled out more parts than I put in.
I cleaned those parts off and I think that I have to remove the end of the pump to get them back in correctly. I ran out of time and I will have work on next weekend. Meanwhile I’m going to watch some YouTube videos on CAV pumps.Thanks

 

[used red MN]

Meanwhile I’m going to watch some YouTube videos on CAV pumps.

The majority of the time on here in the case of when an injection pump meets up with the additional bravery that YouTube introduced as far as breaking one open quite often things go South.

 

[Destroked 450]

I’ve found that when cleaning the screen in the regulating valve assembly it is easier to remove it from the pump and assemble it laying on its side

There are four 5/16 bolts (part 3) holding the regulator housing onto the back of the pump, I normally reuse the square shouldered seal
Make sure spring 4 is in correctly, it will drop into the bore sideways
Slide part 5 and spring 10 into valve body 6 and slide the assembly into the housing
Install the screen then part 9 and 11 as shown
Gasket 7 will usually stay on the valve or in the housing, don’t mess with it !
Once assembled remove the 5/16 bleeder screw and crank the engine, once the air is bled out fuel should shoot out a foot or more while cranking the engine, if not you didn’t get something together properly or the pump vanes are bad

 

[4020 tractor nut]

I’ve found that when cleaning the screen in the regulating valve assembly it is easier to remove it from the pump and assemble it laying on its side
View attachment 147004

There are four 5/16 bolts (part 3) holding the regulator housing onto the back of the pump, I normally reuse the square shouldered seal
Make sure spring 4 is in correctly, it will drop into the bore sideways
Slide part 5 and spring 10 into valve body 6 and slide the assembly into the housing
Install the screen then part 9 and 11 as shown
Gasket 7 will usually stay on the valve or in the housing, don’t mess with it !
Once assembled remove the 5/16 bleeder screw and crank the engine, once the air is bled out fuel should shoot out a foot or more while cranking the engine, if not you didn’t get something together properly or the pump vanes are bad

Hi,
Thanks for this information. Have you taken the regulator housing off the pump while the pump is on the tractor?
I started doing that but it seemed like the regulator housing didn't want to come off easily.
Thanks!

 

[4020 tractor nut]

The majority of the time on here in the case of when an injection pump meets up with the additional bravery that YouTube introduced as far as breaking one open quite often things go South.

Hi,
I would have to agree. I'm watching the videos because I think my issue is minor. If I only have to remove the regulator housing and it is somewhat simple, Ok. Otherwise I'll have to see if I can find a qualified local shop to do the work.
Thanks.

 

[Sean in PA]

Get a quote from a local shop before they do any work. Some over charge by a lot. Then contact the member here with the handle Dieseltech to get a quote from him. Including the shipping to and from him, he is usually still less expensive and he does excellent work.

 

[a49deere]

Hi,
I would have to agree. I'm watching the videos because I think my issue is minor. If I only have to remove the regulator housing and it is somewhat simple, Ok. Otherwise I'll have to see if I can find a qualified local shop to do the work.
Thanks.

You have been advised who to send it too, (diesel tech) just do it, you won't regret it!!

 

[Destroked 450]

Hi,
Thanks for this information. Have you taken the regulator housing off the pump while the pump is on the tractor?
I started doing that but it seemed like the regulator housing didn't want to come off easily.
Thanks!

Just take out the four 5/16 screws, there’s a small roll pin that aligns with a notch in the transfer pump cam
Once the screws are out the housing should slide back about 1/4” and come off
I’ve gotten junk in the tanks of 2 tractors removing the regulator assembly with the pump on the tractor is how I clean the screens
I replaced the tank on the 5600 last year due to pin holes in the bottom of the tank so hopefully won’t have the issue with that tractor again. Cleaned the tank on the 4000 and using a algaecide in the fuel, hopefully that will help

 

[4020 tractor nut]

Just take out the four 5/16 screws, there’s a small roll pin that aligns with a notch in the transfer pump cam
Once the screws are out the housing should slide back about 1/4” and come off
I’ve gotten junk in the tanks of 2 tractors removing the regulator assembly with the pump on the tractor is how I clean the screens
I replaced the tank on the 5600 last year due to pin holes in the bottom of the tank so hopefully won’t have the issue with that tractor again. Cleaned the tank on the 4000 and using a algaecide in the fuel, hopefully that will help

Thanks ! I'll try again tomorrow. Have a good weekend!