I’m new to all this “tractoting” business

Hello, and thanks so much for welcoming me aboard.

I didn’t grow up around tractors, and I never had a tractor, but I just bought my first one this weekend. A 1986 Massey Ferguson 283 with a 236 front end loader.

The tractor came from a dealership that had it on consignment when the owner passed away… the kids were selling the equipment.

The front and loader is driven by a PTO powered pump and the tractor was mostly used for loader work. I noticed that the PTO stays spinning, even when I push the clutch all the way down… And it has a two Sage clutch. I’m not sure if the clutch is out of adjustment or if the clutch is fused the flywheel because they always used it as a front and loader and never took the PTO off. I did adjust the clutch pedal which was out of adjustment, but that didn’t change anything.

Any ideas, recommendations, or suggestions about how to figure out what the problem is and how to fix it? I am mechanically inclined, so I don’t have a problem doing any of the labor or diagnostics.

Thanks again!
 
Are you absolutely positive your tractor has a 2 stage clutch? That model was also available with Independent PTO, which means the clutch pedal has no connection to the PTO. Are you aware that the PTO lever is near your left heel as you sit on the tractor? Can you move that lever forward and back while the engine is running and the clutch pedal released without any grinding? If so, you have IPTO.
 
Oos
Are you absolutely positive your tractor has a 2 stage clutch? That model was also available with Independent PTO, which means the clutch pedal has no connection to the PTO. Are you aware that the PTO lever is near your left heel as you sit on the tractor? Can you move that lever forward and back while the engine is running and the clutch pedal released without any grinding? If so, you have IPTO.
I’m positive that it has a two-stage clutch. It grinds when trying to shift it with the clutch depressed or not depressed. I can engage and disengage it at low RPM, but if grinds good. when the engine is off, no problems at all putting it in to PTO as expected.
 
The main clutch must be properly adjusted first, then the 2nd stage. Jim should be along shortly, he's an expert.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
1. I have adjusted the clutch pedal into spec.
2. Now I’m wondering if I need to adjust the PTO clutch or is there something else to do?
3. If the PTO clutch is fused to the flywheel given that they ran that hydraulic pump off the PTO for the front end loader, what’s the next step?
 
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
1. I have adjusted the clutch pedal into spec.
2. Now I’m wondering if I need to adjust the PTO clutch or is there something else to do?
3. If the PTO clutch is fused to the flywheel given that they ran that hydraulic pump off the PTO for the front end loader, what’s the next step?
I'm not sure of myself enough to offer complete directions now, sorry. That was about my limit of the 2 clutches. I do remember the main clutch must be properly adjusted before the PTO clutch is adjusted. The PTO clutch has 3 bolts that must have the proper clearance.
Do you have the operators manual? It should have the procedure.
 
I'm not sure of myself enough to offer complete directions now, sorry. That was about my limit of the 2 clutches. I do remember the main clutch must be properly adjusted before the PTO clutch is adjusted. The PTO clutch has 3 bolts that must have the proper clearance.
Do you have the operators manual? It should have the procedure.
I have the operators manual, but I don’t have the service manual. I planned to buy that this week.
 
It could be stuck or it could be out of adjustment. Another thought is the previous owner did something to prevent it from releasing if they wanted it to stay running for the hydraulic pump.

I do not have a MF 283 service manual, however if it is like the dual stage clutch in a MF 245 and MF 255thru MF 275, the manual gives a setting of .080" for the PTO clutch. If it is not releasing, you can reduce that clearance to .070" or .065" to get it to release earlier in pedal travel. It is critical that the external linkage and travel is correct first.

The MF 283 Service Manual should have the info on making that adjustment for the PTO release but will only show the recommended setting.

Does the tractor stop traveling and let you shift gears when you push the pedal halfway (that would be the first stage disengaged)? If that part of the clutch operation is correct travel will stop.

I was going to find the MF part number for the service manual, but it appears AGCO has closed the AGCOpubs site, so it is going to take some research to how the "new" system to get manuals is going to work. A rainy-day project I expect.
 
It could be stuck or it could be out of adjustment. Another thought is the previous owner did something to prevent it from releasing if they wanted it to stay running for the hydraulic pump.

I do not have a MF 283 service manual, however if it is like the dual stage clutch in a MF 245 and MF 255thru MF 275, the manual gives a setting of .080" for the PTO clutch. If it is not releasing, you can reduce that clearance to .070" or .065" to get it to release earlier in pedal travel. It is critical that the external linkage and travel is correct first.

The MF 283 Service Manual should have the info on making that adjustment for the PTO release but will only show the recommended setting.

Does the tractor stop traveling and let you shift gears when you push the pedal halfway (that would be the first stage disengaged)? If that part of the clutch operation is correct travel will stop.

I was going to find the MF part number for the service manual, but it appears AGCO has closed the AGCOpubs site, so it is going to take some research to how the "new" system to get manuals is going to work. A rainy-day project I expect.
So I have a couple of questions:
1. My front end loader brackets over the bottom of the bell housing (picture included). Do I need to remove that bracket to inspect the clutch clearance?
2. It’s definitely possible that they did something to keep it running for the FEL, but when I take the PTO out of gear, that operates normally.
3. The external linkage has the 3/16 free play adjusted. Is there anything else to adjust?
4. I can’t feel the second stage in the clutch with a different pressure, but in the middle I am able to disengage the drive gears and shift into another, so that part of the clutch feels perfectly normal.
 

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1. Yes, you have to remove that loader crossmember piece that covers the inspection opening to access the internal clutch adjustments.
2. You say moving the lever will disengage the PTO so that is good.
3. As I said I don't have a service manual for the MF 283. I know the operator's and service manuals I do have a specific length for the rod between the pedal and the arm on the clutch throw out shaft to be checked before setting the free play. The length of that rod will also change the arm travel some, which if it is not enough will limit travel to disengage the clutch.
4. There may not be a lot of difference pressure needed to push the pedal as it hits the second stage and can be hard to feel on some.

If the rod length and pedal free travel are by the book, it sounds like you need to drop the crossmember piece that covers the inspection port and get a look at the clutch and PTO adjustment bolts.
 
1. Yes, you have to remove that loader crossmember piece that covers the inspection opening to access the internal clutch adjustments.
2. You say moving the lever will disengage the PTO so that is good.
3. As I said I don't have a service manual for the MF 283. I know the operator's and service manuals I do have a specific length for the rod between the pedal and the arm on the clutch throw out shaft to be checked before setting the free play. The length of that rod will also change the arm travel some, which if it is not enough will limit travel to disengage the clutch.
4. There may not be a lot of difference pressure needed to push the pedal as it hits the second stage and can be hard to feel on some.

If the rod length and pedal free travel are by the book, it sounds like you need to drop the crossmember piece that covers the inspection port and get a look at the clutch and PTO adjustment bolts.
Ah yes, the length of the rod would be critical to ensure it’s in adjustment also. Any idea who might have that measurement while I get my service manual ordered? It’s not in the operators manual.
 
Ah yes, the length of the rod would be critical to ensure it’s in adjustment also. Any idea who might have that measurement while I get my service manual ordered? It’s not in the operators manual.
It is like 11-5/8 inches on a MF255. However, I cannot say that is right for your MF283, I do not have that service manual.
 
Ah yes, the length of the rod would be critical to ensure it’s in adjustment also. Any idea who might have that measurement while I get my service manual ordered? It’s not in the operators manual.
It would make sense for someone who uses the tractor almost exclusively for loader work to adjust the pto clutch to not disengage so as not to inadvertently disengage it when pushing the clutch for shifting the transmission. Pushing the clutch only half way is a little tedious.
 
It would make sense for someone who uses the tractor almost exclusively for loader work to adjust the pto clutch to not disengage so as not to inadvertently disengage it when pushing the clutch for shifting the transmission. Pushing the clutch only half way is a little tedious.
Absolutely, that’s a really good observation and point. I didn’t even think about that.

I need to use it for loader work, but I also need to use it for mowing, post holes, and other fieldwork, so I’ll have to get it figured out.
 
Another follow up question. I’m very used to wrenching on cars and trucks, but tractors are a different beast. All the bolts are significantly bigger. What do you folks usually use? Impact guns? 1/2 inch drive with breaker bars?
 
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