Ford 3000? Ford 3600? Maybe both! Please advise the tractor green horn!

[JimmyG9146]

OK... I am new to tractors and need some help Identifiying what I have.I would appreciate some help here.Doing this for a good old friend. Tractors are outside my wheelhouse so I have some learning to do. Best I can tell this machine started off a gas motor and was married up with the diesel engine sometime in the past. Now I can't tell if the engine is a 3000 or 3600 front half.
I am hopping to correct the exhaust back to original. It seems that the correct grill for the front is D5NN8200C which I think is 3600.Can someone help me break the numbers on the bell housing and the engine number.
I will be doing several other repairs also
New Clutch
Exhaust as noted
New seat
A brush on paint help with new stickers and repaired tired old plastic parts
A few other pieces to keep it mowing as it been for years
I will post pics during this repair discussion. If there's something that would be helpful. Just ask and I will try to post it up so I can bring this old boy back to life as original as possible.
Thanks Jimmy

 

[Ultradog MN]

I believe the second line on the stamped numbers reads 0C31B
If so that would translate to 0=1970
C= March
31= day of the month
B= afternoon shift
So the tractor was born as a 3600
The rounded intake manifold, Motorola alternator, air filter cover in the nose all say it is a 3600 as does the half round hydraulic flow control handle. But it has the single 3 point lift handle like a 3000. Odd.
I think the A in the serial # (bottom line) says it was built in Antwerp Belgium which might explain the single lift handle as there were differences between US, and the UK and BG built tractors. Headlights in the grill also say UK or BG too.
Generally, a 3000 and a 3600 are almost identical and most parts are interchangeable.
They are great small tractors.

 

[Andy Wickiser]

OK... I am new to tractors and need some help Identifiying what I have.I would appreciate some help here.Doing this for a good old friend. Tractors are outside my wheelhouse so I have some learning to do. Best I can tell this machine started off a gas motor and was married up with the diesel engine sometime in the past. Now I can't tell if the engine is a 3000 or 3600 front half.
I am hopping to correct the exhaust back to original. It seems that the correct grill for the front is D5NN8200C which I think is 3600.Can someone help me break the numbers on the bell housing and the engine number.
I will be doing several other repairs also
New Clutch
Exhaust as noted
New seat
A brush on paint help with new stickers and repaired tired old plastic parts
A few other pieces to keep it mowing as it been for years
I will post pics during this repair discussion. If there's something that would be helpful. Just ask and I will try to post it up so I can bring this old boy back to life as original as possible.
Thanks Jimmy
View attachment 154583View attachment 154584View attachment 154585View attachment 154586View attachment 154587View attachment 154588View attachment 154589View attachment 154590

Model CN253C:

CN2: 3600, Narrow Chassis
5: Diesel Engine, Horizontal Exhaust
3: Live 540 PTO
C: 8X2 Speed manual transmission (4X1 + High/Low)

3600 is listed as years 1976- 1981 so I think Ultradog is a little off on the date -
0C31B:
0 : 1980
C: March
31: 31st of March
B: Day Shift

A378495 is the serial number, as Ultradog says A means made in Antwerp Belgium

D312836 I think is the engine serial number however an engine serial number starting with D usually means originally mated to a 4000-series tractor (meaning a bigger engine)

 

[Destroked 450]

My information shows model CN253C as a 3600 Narrow model, diesel engine with horizontal exhaust and 8 spd transmission
0C31B is a assembly date of March 31,1980 on day shift
A378495 is a Antwerp serial
There is not a lot of info on Antwerp or Basildon serial numbers but what numbers I have recorded this is appropriate for a 80 model

The engine is no original and of a later design
Ribbed block and right side dip stick are 80’s model or newer, D in the engine serial number indicates it could be a 201 for a 4610

 

[Ultradog MN]

My information shows model CN253C as a 3600 Narrow model, diesel engine with horizontal exhaust and 8 spd transmission
0C31B is a assembly date of March 31,1980 on day shift
A378495 is a Antwerp serial
There is not a lot of info on Antwerp or Basildon serial numbers but what numbers I have recorded this is appropriate for a 80 model

The engine is no original and of a later design
Ribbed block and right side dip stick are 80’s model or newer, D in the engine serial number indicates it could be a 201 for a 4610

Andy, Destroked,
Yes 1980 not 1970 = brain fart.
Destroked, I didn't even notice the ribbing on the block. What's you guys take on the single lift handle?
And looking closer, It says Lucas on the alternator.

 

[Destroked 450]

Andy, Destroked,
Yes 1980 not 1970 = brain fart.
Destroked, I didn't even notice the ribbing on the block. What's you guys take on the single lift handle?
And looking closer, It says Lucas on the alternator.

Being a narrow model that is the correct lever according to the parts book, it would have taken up less space than the dual lever setup on the standard model
The alternator is probably a European thing versus US
European models had Lucas alternators
US models had Motorola alternators
I change all of mine to Delco, simpler, cheaper.

 

[Ultradog MN]

I change all of mine to Delco, simpler, cheaper.

Agree.

 

[JimmyG9146]

That's great help! I just completely misread the entire code apparently. I thought it was a 70 model also.I am glad to know that its a 3600 with a newer motor for the future if need be.I hope you guys stay with me on this one because I am running into new territory on this project!
First thing I am waiting for is the clutch. Watched several videos and the recommendation was to tear it down and look. seems wise to me so that's what we did and it has been ordered so hopefully it will be here soon. Worked around it today and first cleaned out the bell housing to start and removed the shaft and bearing carrier and I believe there are bushings that will need to be replaced and would love for you guys to look and see what you think.The shaft may need replacement also. Don't know. Also how do you get those out!
Also have a pic from the rear. Might help in identification of the engine. I have a rear seal coming. Hope I got the right one!

I also got the flywheel back from my guy here. He took 10 off and it should be smooth without any shutter when I get to that point

This tractor will go straight back in service so I don't want to spend a bunch of time on dolling it up but just a couple days to brighten the paint up in the visible areas while Im waiting on parts I thought would be a good idea. Will look great from 30 feet! Going to order a new sticker too now that I know what Im working on.

 

[JimmyG9146]

Try to carefully smear some color on tomorrow

 

[Ultradog MN]

You will want to replace the front seals in the transmission while you have it apart. There are two of them. Drain the transmission first.
I would guess that 90% of us here consider replacing those seals are part of any clutch job.

 

[JimmyG9146]

Is there a tread on doing this job Ultradog? May have looked over it but didn't see the parts listed on the site.

 

[Ultradog MN]

Is there a tread on doing this job Ultradog? May have looked over it but didn't see the parts listed on the site.

You should get an I&T FO-41 manual if you don't have one. Available from our hosts here. Probably around $45? nowdays.
Worth every penny!!!
Replacing those front seals is not difficult.
Am reusing your photo here.
Drain transmission first.
Note the small flange with five bolts on the front of your transmission.
Remove that and pull the outer splined tube out. There are two seals. Big one and small one. Get the paper gasket too.
I always buy those from New Holland dealer. Good quality + exact fit.
Spring side of seals Always go to oil side.

This is Tractor Talk = more of a general board.
For future questions try the Ford Board.
Great bunch of very knowledgeable guys there with lots of experience with your specific tractor.

Ford

Dedicated to Ford tractors.

forums.yesterdaystractors.com

 

[used red MN]

Is there a tread on doing this job Ultradog? May have looked over it but didn't see the parts listed on the site.

Hello Jimmy, welcome to YT! Here is a link to the manufacturers parts catalog for that tractor. I am not a tried and true Ford guy like some of these guys, hopefully they will chime in if I mislead you. I chose the 3600 Ag narrow model per what was replied and what they call a “Dual range 8 speed transmission”. CNHI Ford 3600N trans diagram You can see by the linked page that the parts “keyed” 11 and 12 are the seals that are suggested to be replaced. They are shown as one priced around $16 and the other near $25. If you are viewing this on a PC it may be obvious that this allows you to view all the parts diagrams for that tractor. On a phone clicking “Table of Contents” will put you at the point where you select other Functional Groups and diagrams.

 

[Destroked 450]

I just did a clutch job on a 4630 that had oiled the clutch disc due to a leaking pto seal
Remove the 5 bolts in the nose cone and remove it along with the hollow pto drive gear, remove the rear inner snap ring to remove the gear
One seal is in the nose cone while the other is inside the gear
When reinstalling the nose cone and gear assembly make sure the weep hole in the nose cone is pointed down
Both seals are available on this site
Transmission seal # E59GE9. $7.00
PTO seal #957E727A. $5.00
I replace these seals with ever clutch job

 

[JimmyG9146]

Destroyed , used red MN and Ultradog Mn Thank you for responding! I really appreciate it!
I have (I hope) thanks to your help got the parts together for this site to repair those seals and a big help with the explanation on how to do it!
I really should have started this thread on the Ford side of the forum because this is going to go one for a while. Maybe an administrator will correct that error for me and move it if necessary.
Now... the next problem!
I found the Clutch pedal shaft bushings here and will definitely need those to really do this repair correctly and will need to search or maybe a thread or advice on how to push those out and back in. Seems to me you would need some type of special C clamp to push out and back in but I may be over thinking this. Thoughts?
Also even more challenging the shaft I have is worn and I have checked several sources and the shaft is not produced that I am aware of in aftermarket and cannot be had new either! Part #E1NN7503BB
There has to be a solution for this problem! All these shafts have to be getting worn to death as mine is!
Is the a member here that is a great welder/ machinist that will do this?
I just throwing around ideas.
Doing all this work to do it right and having a flopping shaft would be bad!
Any thoughts or advice on this would be appreciated.

 

[used red MN]

and will need to search or maybe a thread or advice on how to push those out and back in.

Get a set of bushing drivers like are in this link. The bushings can be driven out and back in with a hammer. That linked offering just came up in a search so I don’t know anything about them. If that is an actual OTC tool kit that is a very good price. Bushing drivers

 

[Ultradog MN]

Destroyed , used red MN and Ultradog Mn Thank you for responding! I really appreciate it!
I have (I hope) thanks to your help got the parts together for this site to repair those seals and a big help with the explanation on how to do it!
I really should have started this thread on the Ford side of the forum because this is going to go one for a while. Maybe an administrator will correct that error for me and move it if necessary.
Now... the next problem!
I found the Clutch pedal shaft bushings here and will definitely need those to really do this repair correctly and will need to search or maybe a thread or advice on how to push those out and back in. Seems to me you would need some type of special C clamp to push out and back in but I may be over thinking this. Thoughts?
Also even more challenging the shaft I have is worn and I have checked several sources and the shaft is not produced that I am aware of in aftermarket and cannot be had new either! Part #E1NN7503BB
There has to be a solution for this problem! All these shafts have to be getting worn to death as mine is!
Is the a member here that is a great welder/ machinist that will do this?
I just throwing around ideas.
Doing all this work to do it right and having a flopping shaft would be bad!
Any thoughts or advice on this would be appreciated.

I wouldn't worry a whole lot about some slop there. It won't affect your clutching ability.
But if you want it fixed and can't find a new one, your idea of welding it up and turning it back to specs is a simple job that anyone with a lathe and welder could do.
Where are you located ? Maybe add a location to your profile? Doesn't have to be your home address. Something like TX panhandle, Upper Thumb, MI, Oregon coast or The Bluegrass State at least gives folks a hint.
If you are close to the Twin Cities I could do that job for you.

 

[JimmyG9146]

Picked up a bushing driver kit today used red. I have not needed one till now but there's always a way to buy a new tool huh!
It will be good to have. I have lost about a week trying to get all the stuff together. Im sure if I do a tractor for myself it will move much faster and I will gain experience green horning this one up.
I guess I will go the welding route Ultradog. I am going to wait to get my parts in so I can get the I.D. measurement on the bushing and try my local guy to see how he feels about doing that. My guess is you're correct. This is Peach county in Alabama so he probably could do that blindfolded. Lots of tractors around here.I will keep plugging away at what I can accomplish cleaning and prepping and even a little paining for the next 4-5 days. I will get you guys thoughts in a couple days. The encouragement here is valuable to me.

 

[Hobo,NC]

The clutch shaft is the O.D. that is not going to change. Boy did we get lucky I take it you do not know about the wedge trick.

 

[JimmyG9146]

I do not! Fill in in!