2000 Gas Battery Size/Group

Ltljon

Member
Didn't find answer on Search. I see 17TF Group is original for these but even if I find one listed they're $350 - $500. Is there a sensible alternative? The usual TSC, Rural King, Napa, etc are close by.
 
BCI group size 24 is physically close in size as are 24F . 51 and 51 are physically smaller. Look at your post configuration to see what may be suitable.
 
I would just measure your battery box or the space that the battery occupies, then go shop. For example, a group 26 battery is approximately, 8" x 7" x 8". A group 65 battery might fit your box, it isn't as long, but it is wider and taller than a 17TF. A group 56 might also work. I always go for the highest CCA that will fit my space. I know securing a battery in the tray that is smaller may be a challenge.
 
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BCI group size 24 is physically close in size as are 24F . 51 and 51 are physically smaller. Look at your post configuration to see what may be suitable.
I need to measure my cables since it came with no battery & see what I can get away with. Was just hoping there was a really close physical size to look semi original anyway, not that it’ll ever be in a show! 😂
The 24 sounds like a good place to start tho, thanks!
 
I use a group 48 are 94, I make custom hold downs for either if you go there I could give you the measurements. If you go with any other size try the fit before you buy it are ask if you can retune it for another size. That's why I go with a 48 are 94 as the post set lower than a 65. I have tried a 65 I did not like the fit at all. I personally would not use a 24 but if you go there 24's come in two styles check that out before you buy.

I have converted a hand full over so its not a guess are my first rodeo. If I install a battery its tied down even if I have to make a hold down.
 
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I use a group 48 are 94, I make custom hold downs for either if you go there I could give you the measurements. If you go with any other size try the fit before you buy it are ask if you can retune it for another size. That's why I go with a 48 are 94 as the post set lower than a 65. I have tried a 65 I did not like the fit at all. I personally would not use a 24 but if you go there 24's come in two styles check that out before you buy.

I have converted a hand full over so its not a guess are my first rodeo. If I install a battery its tied down even if I have to make a hold down.
Ive not been on here in ages Hobo, glad to see you’re still around! Im over near the West end of NC.
May take you up on the hold down measurements. All this one had was a 2’ long piece of wire he tied it down with.
 
I put a car-sized battery in mine the last couple of times due to the CO$$$T of the 17TF. Works fine for a gas. I made a wood filler out of some scrap 2x6 to take up the space in the tray and under the clamp.
 
Didn't find answer on Search. I see 17TF Group is original for these but even if I find one listed they're $350 - $500. Is there a sensible alternative? The usual TSC, Rural King, Napa, etc are close by.
My opinion on especially Ford tractors as I have owned them mostly for 45+ years is that the size of the OEM batteries is made large for the farmers who park their tractors in sheds away from a charging source. I have proven more than once that a fully charged 1/2 the OEM rating will have no problem charging any of my Fords and there have been a dozen at least over the years up to a 4610.

The '62-64 (4 cylinder) 2000 and 4000 series had a cross mounted size 24 battery I'm recollecting. Had 2 or 3 of those. In '65 with the redesigned tractor (sheet metal and lowering to 3 cylinder engines) and all, the battery was moved to a slide out, pivoting tray under the cowl ,and even the 3000 3 cyl. of which I had one, had room for the group 31 I used to buy at the OTR truck dealer where batteries were dirt cheap as they bought them by the skid. I would expect that the lower HP 2000 shared the same design as did the larger tractors.

Had a JD 4010 that I bought used with a single 12v deep cycle trolling motor battery....that had been used for quite a number of years judging by its physical appearance. I used it like that for several years because the battery had no problem spinning the big engine over in the winter with no starting aids......and surely, as we all know, deep cycles are made for low current plate life, not high current discharging.
 
My opinion on especially Ford tractors as I have owned them mostly for 45+ years is that the size of the OEM batteries is made large for the farmers who park their tractors in sheds away from a charging source. I have proven more than once that a fully charged 1/2 the OEM rating will have no problem charging any of my Fords and there have been a dozen at least over the years up to a 4610.

The '62-64 (4 cylinder) 2000 and 4000 series had a cross mounted size 24 battery I'm recollecting. Had 2 or 3 of those. In '65 with the redesigned tractor (sheet metal and lowering to 3 cylinder engines) and all, the battery was moved to a slide out, pivoting tray under the cowl ,and even the 3000 3 cyl. of which I had one, had room for the group 31 I used to buy at the OTR truck dealer where batteries were dirt cheap as they bought them by the skid. I would expect that the lower HP 2000 shared the same design as did the larger tractors.

Had a JD 4010 that I bought used with a single 12v deep cycle trolling motor battery....that had been used for quite a number of years judging by its physical appearance. I used it like that for several years because the battery had no problem spinning the big engine over in the winter with no starting aids......and surely, as we all know, deep cycles are made for low current plate life, not high current discharging.
The starter, at least on the gas models, is the same one used on cars and light trucks. I had to replace mine a few years back and needed it quick to got a reman from a parts store chain. Not as well made but works fine for that little motor. The old one went for core, wish I'd kept it to repair but I was in a hurry.
 
I use a group 48 are 94, I make custom hold downs for either if you go there I could give you the measurements. If you go with any other size try the fit before you buy it are ask if you can retune it for another size. That's why I go with a 48 are 94 as the post set lower than a 65. I have tried a 65 I did not like the fit at all. I personally would not use a 24 but if you go there 24's come in two styles check that out before you buy.

I have converted a hand full over so its not a guess are my first rodeo. If I install a battery its tied down even if I have to make a hold down.
I’m goin Rural King today & get the 94. About $120 plus tax
 
Went Rural King & wound up settling on the bigger 65, (850cca I believe instead of the 650) for $90 it seems like.
Leaves about a 7” gap in the tray which a piece of 2x6 will cure & then when Hobo mentioned old bed frame I figured a way to build something to clamp it down.
Now onto the fuel system. Been sitting a while so Im chasing it down as we speak.
 
To the lip of the hood on a 69 300 its 9-1/4". This is a 94 with a 2x4 to duplicate a group 31. Hold down is scrap bead rail : ).
 

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Couple of thoughts... Car batteries are cheaper and often last longer. BUT!!!!!!! If you buy the taller batteries, the top of the hood will touch the battery posts and short out the battery. SO measure carefully and always put the shorter batteries in your tractor!. ALSO the positive cable is currently run between the gas tank and the back of battery shelf. DO NOT run the positive cable out the side of the battery shelf as the hood has a very very sharp edge on it and will slowly vibrate against the cable and eventually cut through the insulation and burn your tractor to the ground!!!!

Otherwise buy the highest cranking amps for the money to get as much life out ot the battery as you can. Some folks simply move their car or truck batteries to their tractors as they change them every 3 or 4 years with good results.(depends on your climate)

Remember that the original cables are sized for both battery post to be located near the gas tank... AND most car batteries had the post located at opposite ends,, meaning that one cable will not reach... but some clever person will simply route the cable over the side and against the dreaded hood lip... and then comes the eventual fire... So plan on replacing one of your cables with a longer cable to fix this. The original 32 inch cable is not long enough to be correctly routed.
 
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