IH Sickle Mower ID and Adjustment

Farmall Farmer

New User
Location
N. Dak.
I have an IH 7' sickle mower, but I don't know the model or year. It is drawbar mounted and belt driven. I am also having issues with it cutting, I replaced all the sickle sections last year and a few rock guards this year. Going one direction, it cuts great and going a different direction grass stuck on the bar and doesn't make a clean cut. I have tried to adjust it, but I am not sure whether to adjust it up, down, or level. I am cutting pasture grass, unsure of grass species, but there is more than one species. Any help identifying it and getting it adjusted properly would be greatly appreciated.
 
Will add pictures tomorrow
I have an IH 7' sickle mower, but I don't know the model or year. It is drawbar mounted and belt driven. I am also having issues with it cutting, I replaced all the sickle sections last year and a few rock guards this year. Going one direction, it cuts great and going a different direction grass stuck on the bar and doesn't make a clean cut. I have tried to adjust it, but I am not sure whether to adjust it up, down, or level. I am cutting pasture grass, unsure of grass species, but there is more than one species. Any help identifying it and getting it adjusted properly would be greatly appreciated.
 
Upvote 0
Is the grass standing pretty good, or is it leaning, fallen over, lodged, in one direction?

We’re you mowing when it was windy, didn’t cut when going with the wind?

Lots of adjustments to improve cutting, or make it worse if you adjust the wrong way.

But since you said it cuts well one way and not a different direction on the same basic type of grasses, makes me think of the above 2 items first.

Paul
 
Upvote 0
IMG_1800.jpeg

Most of it is standing fairly well, but some grass is laid over on the ground. It is often windy when it is dry enough to cut but I haven't really paid attention to which way the wind is blowing in relation to mowing direction.
 
Last edited:
Upvote 0
That's a pretty uncommon mower: It's an IH balanced head, pretty sure it's a model 100. But the vast majority of the model 100's were three-point. A few were fast-hitch, and a few (like yours) were drawbar mount.

As far as adjustments go, all the usual apply. Here's part of a reply I wrote to another chap having trouble cutting with his. It sounds like you've already looked into much of this, but make uber, uber sure your register is set correctly and your hold-downs are holding the knife tight to the ledgers.

For Maintenance:

- Sections need to be kept in good shape. If yours is a 7', buy a new knife. AI makes aftermarket under-serrated ones that'll fit yours, and it'll pay you back in spades (any dealer can order AI products).

- Make sure your wobble mechanism is tight, well-lubricated (regularly during use), and has no slop (a little bit of slop/play makes a big difference in how it cuts).

- Make sure your ledgers on your guards are sharp, square, and all level with each other.

- Make sure your hold downs are good - holding the knife nice and close to the ledgers.

- Make sure your knife & bar is registered correctly. This is very often overlooked, and if it's not right it won't cut worth a dang.

- Set the lead on your bar - the far end of the bar should be just a tiny bit ahead of the pitman-end when mounted on the tractor.

When Using:

- Don't cut through hay that's already cut - it'll plug instantly. You'll get pretty good at lifting the bar right at the end of a run, and dropping it right at the start.

- Sometimes a little speed helps, sometime it hurts. Play around and see what works. 90% of the videos you see on Youtube of guys with sickle mowers are cutting far too slow. If you have everything adjusted right, there's no reason even an old pitman mower can't plug along at 5-6 MPH just fine (as long as the hay isn't down or lodged). We use some 9' JD 350 mowers for a lot of hay at our Northern farm, and you can zip along in 6th high at 8-9 MPH all day with it.

- Keep your lines straight when possible and watch your turns. Often better to lift and loop around to the left and drop back in square rather than make a sharp right. If you make a sharp right, the end of the bar will be travelling very, very slow (possibly even backwards, if you turn sharp enough). Without decent forward momentum, the end of the bar is more likely to plug.

- Down or lodged hay will often be a nightmare, despite your best efforts. Best to cut before it has chance to get knocked down.

- Don't cut when it's damp (even if only very slightly) - wait until all the dew's off.

- If cutting alfalfa: It's a completely different animal than other types of hay, and modern alfalfa strains are a lot different than your grandfather's alfalfa. The stems of modern varieties are a lot tougher and higher yielding. You can cut it with a sickle mower just dandy, but it'll take forever for the stems to dry down. By the time the stems are ready to rake/bale, the leaves will be bone dry and shattering. You can get around this a little if you rake when a little dew's still on, but it still won't be great. Better to buy a crimper to pull after the mower so it all dries evenly (although crimpers can be a complete PIA). If you are cutting with a sickle mower and no crimper, it helps to cut long before any of it even starts to think about blooming: the stems aren't as tough or waxy. This might even be better for your RFV value needs, depending on what animals you're feeding. Cutting early is perhaps good for cattle (especially dairy/lactating), but probably a little rich for horses (depending on alfalfa percentage).

And keep in mind that cutting well and fast with a sickle mower requires skill, finesse, and proper maintenance. It's not like a bush hog; you can't just drop the bar at the start of the year and go. Around here, sickle mowers get bought and sold at a crazy rate: I've been watching some of the same sickle mowers pop up on marketplace from different sellers every year. It's mainly horse people: They think one will be great to maintain their pasture, buy one, but aren't prepared for the effort and finesse it takes to keep one cutting well, and sell it to the next guy.
 
Upvote 0
That's a pretty uncommon mower: It's an IH balanced head, pretty sure it's a model 100. But the vast majority of the model 100's were three-point. A few were fast-hitch, and a few (like yours) were drawbar mount.

As far as adjustments go, all the usual apply. Here's part of a reply I wrote to another chap having trouble cutting with his. It sounds like you've already looked into much of this, but make uber, uber sure your register is set correctly and your hold-downs are holding the knife tight to the ledgers.

For Maintenance:

- Sections need to be kept in good shape. If yours is a 7', buy a new knife. AI makes aftermarket under-serrated ones that'll fit yours, and it'll pay you back in spades (any dealer can order AI products).

- Make sure your wobble mechanism is tight, well-lubricated (regularly during use), and has no slop (a little bit of slop/play makes a big difference in how it cuts).

- Make sure your ledgers on your guards are sharp, square, and all level with each other.

- Make sure your hold downs are good - holding the knife nice and close to the ledgers.

- Make sure your knife & bar is registered correctly. This is very often overlooked, and if it's not right it won't cut worth a dang.

- Set the lead on your bar - the far end of the bar should be just a tiny bit ahead of the pitman-end when mounted on the tractor.

When Using:

- Don't cut through hay that's already cut - it'll plug instantly. You'll get pretty good at lifting the bar right at the end of a run, and dropping it right at the start.

- Sometimes a little speed helps, sometime it hurts. Play around and see what works. 90% of the videos you see on Youtube of guys with sickle mowers are cutting far too slow. If you have everything adjusted right, there's no reason even an old pitman mower can't plug along at 5-6 MPH just fine (as long as the hay isn't down or lodged). We use some 9' JD 350 mowers for a lot of hay at our Northern farm, and you can zip along in 6th high at 8-9 MPH all day with it.

- Keep your lines straight when possible and watch your turns. Often better to lift and loop around to the left and drop back in square rather than make a sharp right. If you make a sharp right, the end of the bar will be travelling very, very slow (possibly even backwards, if you turn sharp enough). Without decent forward momentum, the end of the bar is more likely to plug.

- Down or lodged hay will often be a nightmare, despite your best efforts. Best to cut before it has chance to get knocked down.

- Don't cut when it's damp (even if only very slightly) - wait until all the dew's off.

- If cutting alfalfa: It's a completely different animal than other types of hay, and modern alfalfa strains are a lot different than your grandfather's alfalfa. The stems of modern varieties are a lot tougher and higher yielding. You can cut it with a sickle mower just dandy, but it'll take forever for the stems to dry down. By the time the stems are ready to rake/bale, the leaves will be bone dry and shattering. You can get around this a little if you rake when a little dew's still on, but it still won't be great. Better to buy a crimper to pull after the mower so it all dries evenly (although crimpers can be a complete PIA). If you are cutting with a sickle mower and no crimper, it helps to cut long before any of it even starts to think about blooming: the stems aren't as tough or waxy. This might even be better for your RFV value needs, depending on what animals you're feeding. Cutting early is perhaps good for cattle (especially dairy/lactating), but probably a little rich for horses (depending on alfalfa percentage).

And keep in mind that cutting well and fast with a sickle mower requires skill, finesse, and proper maintenance. It's not like a bush hog; you can't just drop the bar at the start of the year and go. Around here, sickle mowers get bought and sold at a crazy rate: I've been watching some of the same sickle mowers pop up on marketplace from different sellers every year. It's mainly horse people: They think one will be great to maintain their pasture, buy one, but aren't prepared for the effort and finesse it takes to keep one cutting well, and sell it to the next guy.
Thanks for all the information. I had actually just gone out after adjusting the bar slightly down, that seemed to help keep most of the grass off the bar. My mower is actually belt driven, so the belt may need some tightening. I will have to look into the hold downs, some may not be holding the bar tight enough. Also, what gear would be best, I use a 1940 Farmall H to pull it and in 2nd gear which is around 4 MPH seems to work okay (our land is quite bumpy and not very smooth, any faster and it gets very rough).
 
Upvote 0
View attachment 156808

Most of it is standing fairly well, but some grass is laid over on the ground. It is often windy when it is dry enough to cut but I haven't really paid attention to which way the wind is blowing in relation to mowing direction.
It is a 120! If you get a chance & could post more pics, that would be great. Something on there looks cobbled.

If the drawbar brace on the right is in the 5th hole, the one on the left should be on the 3rd. You want the mower running level & the drawbar canted & not the other way. It keeps the inner shoe from digging in the ground. Second, on an H, is almost too slow in a lot of conditions. I'll knock down my hay in 4th & condition in 2nd.

Mike
 
Upvote 0
That's a pretty uncommon mower: It's an IH balanced head, pretty sure it's a model 100. But the vast majority of the model 100's were three-point. A few were fast-hitch, and a few (like yours) were drawbar mount.

As far as adjustments go, all the usual apply. Here's part of a reply I wrote to another chap having trouble cutting with his. It sounds like you've already looked into much of this, but make uber, uber sure your register is set correctly and your hold-downs are holding the knife tight to the ledgers.

For Maintenance:

- Sections need to be kept in good shape. If yours is a 7', buy a new knife. AI makes aftermarket under-serrated ones that'll fit yours, and it'll pay you back in spades (any dealer can order AI products).

- Make sure your wobble mechanism is tight, well-lubricated (regularly during use), and has no slop (a little bit of slop/play makes a big difference in how it cuts).

- Make sure your ledgers on your guards are sharp, square, and all level with each other.

- Make sure your hold downs are good - holding the knife nice and close to the ledgers.

- Make sure your knife & bar is registered correctly. This is very often overlooked, and if it's not right it won't cut worth a dang.

- Set the lead on your bar - the far end of the bar should be just a tiny bit ahead of the pitman-end when mounted on the tractor.

When Using:

- Don't cut through hay that's already cut - it'll plug instantly. You'll get pretty good at lifting the bar right at the end of a run, and dropping it right at the start.

- Sometimes a little speed helps, sometime it hurts. Play around and see what works. 90% of the videos you see on Youtube of guys with sickle mowers are cutting far too slow. If you have everything adjusted right, there's no reason even an old pitman mower can't plug along at 5-6 MPH just fine (as long as the hay isn't down or lodged). We use some 9' JD 350 mowers for a lot of hay at our Northern farm, and you can zip along in 6th high at 8-9 MPH all day with it.

- Keep your lines straight when possible and watch your turns. Often better to lift and loop around to the left and drop back in square rather than make a sharp right. If you make a sharp right, the end of the bar will be travelling very, very slow (possibly even backwards, if you turn sharp enough). Without decent forward momentum, the end of the bar is more likely to plug.

- Down or lodged hay will often be a nightmare, despite your best efforts. Best to cut before it has chance to get knocked down.

- Don't cut when it's damp (even if only very slightly) - wait until all the dew's off.

- If cutting alfalfa: It's a completely different animal than other types of hay, and modern alfalfa strains are a lot different than your grandfather's alfalfa. The stems of modern varieties are a lot tougher and higher yielding. You can cut it with a sickle mower just dandy, but it'll take forever for the stems to dry down. By the time the stems are ready to rake/bale, the leaves will be bone dry and shattering. You can get around this a little if you rake when a little dew's still on, but it still won't be great. Better to buy a crimper to pull after the mower so it all dries evenly (although crimpers can be a complete PIA). If you are cutting with a sickle mower and no crimper, it helps to cut long before any of it even starts to think about blooming: the stems aren't as tough or waxy. This might even be better for your RFV value needs, depending on what animals you're feeding. Cutting early is perhaps good for cattle (especially dairy/lactating), but probably a little rich for horses (depending on alfalfa percentage).

And keep in mind that cutting well and fast with a sickle mower requires skill, finesse, and proper maintenance. It's not like a bush hog; you can't just drop the bar at the start of the year and go. Around here, sickle mowers get bought and sold at a crazy rate: I've been watching some of the same sickle mowers pop up on marketplace from different sellers every year. It's mainly horse people: They think one will be great to maintain their pasture, buy one, but aren't prepared for the effort and finesse it takes to keep one cutting well, and sell it to the next guy.
Spot on post about general sickle bar mower use!
 
Upvote 0
Cameras often give a fish eye look and distort the image a tad, so this probably isn’t how it looks…

It looks a bit like the far end of the sickle is angled backwards more than the close side of the sickle. Some of the lines in the frame of the mower look like it’s creating that angle where it bolts together?

When mowing, it’s natural for the sickle to flex backwards an inch or two. If it’s already set up backwards an inch or three, then it is mowing with the far end flexed back and now at an angle to the grass several inches.

It mows best if it is just squarely out to the side when mowing, so sitting there empty you actually want the far end ahead a little bit to the close side.

Again, this is micro managing something that probably isn’t even an issue, just a camera angle….

Paul
 
Upvote 0
It is a 120! If you get a chance & could post more pics, that would be great. Something on there looks cobbled.

If the drawbar brace on the right is in the 5th hole, the one on the left should be on the 3rd. You want the mower running level & the drawbar canted & not the other way. It keeps the inner shoe from digging in the ground. Second, on an H, is almost too slow in a lot of conditions. I'll knock down my hay in 4th & condition in 2nd.

Mike

I did make my own belt adjustment bracket as the original has been missing since I bought it. Most of the pins are not factory and have been replaced with hardware store bolts, the trailing wheel and hydraulic cylinder bracket have been welded on by previous owner so having something look cobbled is not surprising.
IMG_1798 cropped.jpegimage2 cropped.jpegimage1 cropped.jpeg
 
Upvote 0
I did make my own belt adjustment bracket as the original has been missing since I bought it. Most of the pins are not factory and have been replaced with hardware store bolts, the trailing wheel and hydraulic cylinder bracket have been welded on by previous owner so having something look cobbled is not surprising.
View attachment 156879View attachment 156883View attachment 156886
That's not even an IH knife drive & slab. It's New Holland.

Which reminds me..... Rowse is a really good source of parts & info on both of those mowers.

Mike
 
Upvote 0
When I bought the mower from an auction, they had it listed as a New Holland but there are IH symbols on several spots on the frame.
That looks to be correct.

So, for parts....

You'd want a manual for a NH 451 mower for the knife drive & cutter bar & the rest would be the IH 120 mower. Both parts catalogs can be found online through Messick's.

Looking at your cutterbar, you need more hold downs. NH has them spaced with one open guard bolt between them. IH has two. You also need to trim down the bolts holding the guards on. They should be about flush with the top of the nut. That way, hay doesn't hang up on them.

Mike

NH

newholland451sicklemower-15_8ae7c2e97b8045e79d814324ec2c4a88-1486494718.jpg


IH

McCormick No. 120 Balanced Head Mower 027.JPG
 
Upvote 0
I just looked at your mower pictures. Absent Minded Farmer is 100% correct about the wobble box and cutterbar being New Holland while the main frame is IH. A neat improvise by someone. I switched my NH 451 from rivets to bolts last year. I ended up putting a new knife, guards, wear plates and hold downs on. It made a world of difference. Messicks is a great resource as is Webbs for general cutting parts. Rowse has rights to both NH & IH now so they are an option to. The last hold down on the NH units (by the outer shoe) is suppose to be a double.
 
Upvote 0
I did make my own belt adjustment bracket as the original has been missing since I bought it. Most of the pins are not factory and have been replaced with hardware store bolts, the trailing wheel and hydraulic cylinder bracket have been welded on by previous owner so having something look cobbled is not surprising.
View attachment 156879View attachment 156883View attachment 156886
In your picture, your belt adjuster is pull the belt up. Wouldn't it be better if it was pushing it down to get more belt into the chives.
 
Upvote 0
In your picture, your belt adjuster is pull the belt up. Wouldn't it be better if it was pushing it down to get more belt into the chives.
There's some benefit to not having as much belt around the pulley. It's done to relieve some friction in the pulley notch. Less wear on the belt & it runs cooler. Also acts as a guide, for when you adjust the pitch of the cutterbar up or down. That puts a slight twist in the belt, which would cause it to rub on the top of the pulley groove, down in the flywheel, on the back of the wobble box.

That's just for the IH Balanced-Head mowers. The NH mowers had a shorter belt & no idler/guide pulley.

Mike

P.S. The guys up in Tool Talk may be able to give a better & more technical explanation, as to why you run less belt in the groove. My uncle, who was an IH dealer when those were new, is the one who told me about the belt. That was almost 30 years ago. So.... 🤷‍♂️
 
Upvote 0
Yesterday's Tractor Forums

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top