NEED HELP, NEW PROJECT (NOT A TRACTOR) - 110 year old Barn Find Studebaker

[Richard G.]

I removed the oil pan last night to check things out, clean it out, and make sure the pickup tube was clear. I didn't see anything immediate but it is also my first time looking at one of these. I really need guidance with what I'm looking at with this one as this early "brass era engineering" is a different animal. Engine was nice and oily/sludgey which has helped preserve it. The exposed water pump shaft and distributor shaft turned when I rolled engine over.
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Considering the age and time past since running, that looks great.

 

[RTR]

I agree.

 

[lodoc]

Glad to hear it turns over. Now, if you can just find a shop that still pours babbitt....

 

[38 Sears Roebuck]

Glad to hear it turns over. Now, if you can just find a shop that still pours babbitt....

Depends on where you're at. I had my Model A Ford redone by a shop here in Strasburg PA. They poured and machined the bearings. Not cheap but it runs like a sewing machine. Very smooth.

 

[lodoc]

redone by a shop here in Strasburg PA.

Being close to Hershey likely quite helpful

 

[RTR]

Glad to hear it turns over. Now, if you can just find a shop that still pours babbitt....

I'm sure I can IF I need to. So far gonna get it to run and go from there. Not wanting to go that deep at this point.

 

[Richard G.]

I'm sure I can IF I need to. So far gonna get it to run and go from there. Not wanting to go that deep at this point.

I have poured and line bored mains on some Model T's.
I have never done rods as they are not expensive on a T.
You may not need to do anything except adjust bearings if they have some shims.

 

[RTR]

I have poured and line bored mains on some Model T's.
I have never done rods as they are not expensive on a T.
You may not need to do anything except adjust bearings if they have some shims.

I know nothing about any of that. You’re talking Greek to me! Please enlighten….Do I need to be checking more stuff while the oil pan is off ? Thanks

 

[Richard G.]

I know nothing about any of that. You’re talking Greek to me! Please enlighten….Do I need to be checking Imore stuff while the oil pan is off ? Thanks

Will get back to you later today when I have more time Sir.
Very easy to check and do what I am talking about.

 

[Absent Minded Farmer]

I know nothing about any of that. You’re talking Greek to me! Please enlighten….Do I need to be checking more stuff while the oil pan is off ? Thanks

Richard got me to thinkin'.....

A lot of the engine basics, I learned, were from the members of MTFCA/MAFCA (the old Ford clubs). Babbitting was one of those tasks. Their magazines, The Restorer, etc., would also be full of info.

Mike

 

[RTR]

Richard got me to thinkin'.....

A lot of the engine basics, I learned, were from the members of MTFCA/MAFCA (the old Ford clubs). Babbitting was one of those tasks. Their magazines, The Restorer, etc., would also be full of info.

Mike

Good info. Thank you. I need to find 1-2 forums and stick to them rather than looking/asking for info in many places. Gets to be a lot to manage......which is why I come here for everything. My go-to and has been for 20 years since college/high school.

 

[Richard G.]

Will get back to you later today when I have more time Sir.
Very easy to check and do what I am talking about.

OK, I am back.
Look at the rods and mains and see if there are any shims left that can be taken out to tighten up the bearings.
The bearings may be just fine like they are.
But pull one cap off at a time and look at them.
And post photos of them and the crankshaft.
Do only one at a time and make sure you put them back exactly like they came off.
Mark them on the camshaft side 1 through 6 so you keep them correct.
I usually put little file marks on them on the cap and the rods.
You may know all this, but you can't be too careful.
My first Model T had not been run in 37 years.
I flushed the engine a bunch with kerosene, put fresh oil back in it and pulled it off on the rims with no tires and it ran great.
Babbitt bearings may look bad on the surface and still be fine.
Totally different from inserts.

 

[lodoc]

my .02...
You are fortunate that at a glance the bottom of the engine looks ok, intact and no chunks of metal found laying in the pan.
Would be helpful if you had additional individuals that are intimately familiar with these vintage engines give guidance on how to proceed with disassembly / checking components, etc. I would suggest in addition to evaluating the lower end of the engine you should pull the rods and pistons and evaluate them. And check whatever the valve train consists of. All before attempting to 'fire it up'. It's a lot easier to find a problem now and correct it than to have a broken component cause further damage. Parts may be made of 'UNOBTANIUM' . It was 'parked' for a reason...

 

[UncleTom]

I have to ask, How much?

 

[TomA in CA]

I think you can check clearances with plastigauge and take out appropriate numbers of shims. When checking mains put a jack under crank to hold it to upper bearing and leave clearance at bottom.

 

[RTR]

my .02...
You are fortunate that at a glance the bottom of the engine looks ok, intact and no chunks of metal found laying in the pan.
Would be helpful if you had additional individuals that are intimately familiar with these vintage engines give guidance on how to proceed with disassembly / checking components, etc. I would suggest in addition to evaluating the lower end of the engine you should pull the rods and pistons and evaluate them. And check whatever the valve train consists of. All before attempting to 'fire it up'. It's a lot easier to find a problem now and correct it than to have a broken component cause further damage. Parts may be made of 'UNOBTANIUM' . It was 'parked' for a reason...

It appears to have been parked in the 30's and has been mostly untouched/ran/worked on since then. If I pulled the rods and pistons, I am just afraid of getting them back in the block given that this engine doesn't have a removable cylinder head. It is a "Monoblock" (look it up). I am pretty sure the rings are stuck because I poured some ATF-acetone mix into the cylinders and it just instantly went to the oil pan in all cylinders like the pistons weren't even there.

 

[Richard G.]

It appears to have been parked in the 30's and has been mostly untouched/ran/worked on since then. If I pulled the rods and pistons, I am just afraid of getting them back in the block given that this engine doesn't have a removable cylinder head. It is a "Monoblock" (look it up). I am pretty sure the rings are stuck because I poured some ATF-acetone mix into the cylinders and it just instantly went to the oil pan in all cylinders like the pistons weren't even there.

Try mixing some ATF and 90 wt and pour it in the top.
It will take longer to go past the rings and allow some to soak around the rings.
Then in a few days pour the ATF without acetone and let it soak a few days.
Then pour the ATF and acetone through it again.
Patience and not getting in a hurry is the way I have dealt with problems for many years.
And it allows you to have thoughts pop into your head on how to overcome problems.
Standing and staring also works for me.
I have another suggestion if you want it.

If you get tired of this old man's advice, let me know.
Richard in NW SC

 

[miangus]

Congratulation and good luck. One thing I have noticed is most of the people on this site need help, serious help.

 

[lodoc]

It is a "Monoblock" (look it up)

Interesting design of the era due to the limits of casting large metal components. They must have used a ring compressor from below while assembling. Fortunately, you've got plenty of other things to keep you busy on the Stude while giving the solvents an opportunity to free up the rings. Good luck and keep us posted

 

[RTR]

Try mixing some ATF and 90 wt and pour it in the top.
It will take longer to go past the rings and allow some to soak around the rings.
Then in a few days pour the ATF without acetone and let it soak a few days.
Then pour the ATF and acetone through it again.
Patience and not getting in a hurry is the way I have dealt with problems for many years.
And it allows you to have thoughts pop into your head on how to overcome problems.
Standing and staring also works for me.
I have another suggestion if you want it.

If you get tired of this old man's advice, let me know.
Richard in NW SC

I would like all of the advise I can get. It is good because sometimes we don't think of something that we already know but haven't done in a long time. I thought of the 90w and transmission fluid idea actually and am going to give that a go. Between work and the kids, I only get to go down to the shop for about 3 hours a week and work on it, so I have time on my hands. The oil pan is currently off too so I might take an oil can with 90 weight and squirt all of the rod bearings, cam lobes, etc. with oil.

Another thing I'm gonna have to learn about are the grease cups all over the car. Oh, and the "Cone Type" Clutch is a different animal. Need to get a helper and see if it is working on stuck. I've read where I can apply some Neatsfoot Oil to the leather band to help it come back around.

I'm Currently looking for a set of manuals for the car.