New Holland Knotter Troubleshooting Guide

[Wdj]

Ok here's kind of a shot in the dark. The part(don't recall the name of it) that clamps the twine into the twine discs can get a groove worn in it so that no matter how much tension is on it the twine can slip too easily. I made one work by carefully grinding it down. Was hesitant to chime in here as Daniel W is far more knowledgeable than I.

 

[mhb@ufe]

There is no way to adjust the angle of the bill hook however if the pinion gear is worn it will change the angle of the bill hook. If the ball on the knife arm is worn the knife arm may not be holding in the proper position. Don't disregard the importance of the hay dogs (top and bottom) working properly as they play a big part in the tension on the number one twine. Make note of any difference between the working knotter and the non working knotter.

 

[MaddrCow]

I'm thinking I'll replace the twine disc and the twine holder and the pin that the twine holder rotates on. There's some slop in it, nothing more that the other knotter, but maybe this one is more sensitive. I will replace the hay dog spring. I think that's probably why it slides off the bill hook.

 

[DanielW]

Your twine disc does definitely look worn. And I'd replace that hay dog too, which will unfortunately probably mean a lot of heat and frustration when those pins seize. I was going to comment on the worn grooves in the twine disc earlier, but it (kind of) looked like they were doing their job in your videos. Though hard to tell for certain as the needle blocks the view right at the critical time.

 

[ET]

On YouTube watch troubleshooting videos by balerman. He explains things and shows you exactly what to look for

 

[MaddrCow]

 

[DanielW]

Wowzers. Never seen one that worn. Good find.

 

[MaddrCow]

Wowzers. Never seen one that worn. Good find.

Is there a way to replace the rivet pin with a bolt? The manual mentions a special slotted head stud or cap screw?

 

[MaddrCow]

I've replaced the twine holder. I got a new disc from cottage craft works but it doesn't fit so I'll have to return it. The shaft is too short so the gear/pin won't go on. Comparing the notches in the twine disc and the spacing between the discs, mine actually doesn't seem that bad, and it is in no way worse than the knotter side that works.

Replaced the bad hay dog spring, just waiting for the top middle hay dog to show up so I can install that.

The twine disc drive rod, that you adjust to time the twine discs, is totally stripped so I can't tighten the drive gear so my timing keeps slipping. Parts on the way.

However. I was able to get it to reliably knot when I tripped it at about 1/4-1/3 bale length. If I let the bale get longer it would not knot, it would leave the twine ends with a long bow but not together.

I have a couple more parts to fix and readjustments to make, but I want to put this update here in case someone ten years from now finds it helpful.

 

[MaddrCow]

I believe I have this fixed. I think the main fix was the twine disc. But I did the hay dogs as well and it seems to be running. There was also a notch in the knife arm that the twine had carved and it would get caught and pull the twine out of position and not let the knot pull right.

I have two issue ls left:

where the twine seems to be cut right at the bill hook. I've gone through knife arm with a file, and it's intermittent. Is this just a poor twine issue?

The knots are periodically too loose to tie. The billhook was substantially tighter than on the side that was working fine, so I loosened it and it made one good knot. Then I couldn't get it to work again.

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

I found the wear on the bill hook pinions was a problem. There was a lot of wear on the flats where they ride against the cams which changed the angle of the bills at the resting position. Looks like yours where the knot slips off the bill before the jaw closes. I put new bill and disc pinions on both sides. Took the whole knotter apart on the bench. Cleaned and inspected all of it. The dealer was kind enough to break up two cam/pinion sets to give me just the pinions and he copied the instruction sheet for me. I spent several afternoons in the basement getting it all shimmed and adjusted but it worked. I can post some pics and vids later today.

 

[MaddrCow]

Alright.

I've got the baler to knot, sort of. New bale hook shaft really helped the consistency in knotting.

The brand new needle from Messicks was the issue for the breaking twine. I got the hardened tip version. And it appears they just welded two blobs to get the hardened eye. The one needle doesn't have the blobs, but my file could cut it well enough. The other my file skates across. The splatter and blobs weakened the twine enough it snapped at the sharp angles around the twine holder. I was able to sort of grind it smooth and chip the worst of the hardened blobs out. Emailed Messicks but no response yet. My order was back in March so I'm doubtful they're going to do anything either way.

When I say the baler will knot,I only mean short short bales. Like 18" bales. I can make them tight and heavy but any longer and the top twine won't knot. I've tried every variation of twine holder strength and twine box tension, only shorter bales will knot.

The twine tucker fingers on this side go in an okay 1/2" further than the other side, and I think that's the only reason it'll even make them as long as it does.

I'm really just at a loss for what to when test or change after this.

I may try the bale hook pinion. But that doesn't seem connected to my issue.

I'm thinking the frame is bent, or the wallowed out pin hole causes the top twine to be pulled out of position, at the bale gets longer the string goes from 90 degrees straight down to almost 180 degrees straight back. This side the angle is ever so slightly greater than the side that works.

I'm tempted to try a new pin, maybe a bushing in the wallowed hole, or even weld/bolt a piece of angle iron in that will force the twine to stay at a more straight down angle even when the bale gets long.

 

[HiddenRock]

Im not familiar with to many balers besides mine I have two one looks like it might be the same style Tucker fingers. Does your Tucker finger have a roller when they trip.

 

[DanielW]

I think my next step would be to get a Go-pro (or one of the cheaper knock-offs) and a good magnetic base for it, and a stick it on there looking right in the knotter while you're baling at full RPM and in the field (not just cranking it over by hand). Play back on slow motion, and you can really see what's happening. I have one in my tool trailer fore just this purpose. It makes knotter diagnosis so much quicker/easier.