Proud owner of a Case 830 CK DOM

[Tgrasher]

Your under dash looks very orderly compared to the usual scenario. Don't have a book on the "newer" ck series, so no help there. The dash lights are available but are pricey. Try to sand blast or use a rust kill, paint with aluminum/chrome and check continuity. I'm so tight, people reach for their oil cans when I walk by.

 

[Wrangler1973]

I just took the fuel gauge of is the tank. Here's what it looks like. There looks to be quite a bit of rust/sediment on the bottom of the tank and inside. Looks like I'll need to find an old electric cement mixer to tumble the tank to get rid of the rust.

 

[jon f mn]

If you have a running tractor you can jack up one rear wheel and strap the tank to the wheel and let it run for a while. Those dash lights are available from external_link in new York. He posts here and watches this site.

 

[Jim.ME]

If you have a running tractor you can jack up one rear wheel and strap the tank to the wheel and let it run for a while. Those dash lights are available from external_link in new York. He posts here and watches this site.

You can't link his site.

 

[Wrangler1973]

If you have a running tractor you can jack up one rear wheel and strap the tank to the wheel and let it run for a while. Those dash lights are available from external_link in new York. He posts here and watches this site.

I've ordered from John a few times and will be ordering the dash lights from him. I'm going to take the tank into work and see if I can get some of the rust out with a pressure washer then try the electrolysis method. I've got some stainless steel nuts & bolts I can throw in for the tumbling method.

Gene

 

[casecollectorsc]

Nothing to do with wiring but put some oil on the steering shat. Also at the steering wheel...helps a lot for ease of steering.

 

[Wrangler1973]

Nothing to do with wiring but put some oil on the steering shat. Also at the steering wheel...helps a lot for ease of steering.

I did notice there isn't any grease zerks on the steering column or shaft aside from one near the battery box. The hand lever and foot throttle want to slip back instead of staying wide open while running. Could that just be a simple adjustment of the linkage?
Today I'm going to try the electrolysis method on the gas tank to see if that will help loosen up the rust inside. I have an SC that was sitting and has rust in that tank as well and used that as a guinea pig. If it's not very effective I'll throw in some nuts bolts and screws and tumble the tank. I'll also be flushing the radiator and changing the motor and hydraulic oil/filters along with stopping the leaks from the hydro connections. I did notice some engine oil in the ground underneath the tractor so I'll have to investigate that.

Gene

 

[Wrangler1973]

What I thought would be an easy task turned into a major repair. I noticed the power steering belt looked a bit frayed so I begin to disassemble the front end to get at it. Everything seemed to be going along fine until I get to draining and removing the radiator. I'm not sure what the previous owner had in mind with this drain line (pictured) but as I was taking the radiator out the whole assembly pulled from the radiator so now I'll have to find someone to hopefully braise or seal it back in. One of the side supports also needs to be welded back in place. It's a good thing I found this issue now and not while driving down the road.

Gene

 

[Tgrasher]

If the ck models are like their predecessors, the steering u-joint under the left side of the radiator should be checked for wear. If so, I have a few suggestions to aid in removal.

 

[Dennis K]

Funny John, when I get up on the deck I feel like I have to squeeze to get up on the tractor. Can those fenders be extended out? It looks like they could but then that would mean I'd have to adjust the decking for the clutch/brake pedals and hydro levers. Am I right in that assessment?
I should've done a deeper dive into the tractors than I did. There was an 830 in the list ahead of this one that was closer to what my dad had when I was a kid, a Dual Range. I have to get used to putting this tractor in S to start. It runs good sitting still but when I start driving it coughs, spits and sputters when running for a bit. The gas tank needs some cleaning as there's some debris getting into the bulb. I took the gas line and carb off last night to clean then out. So the next step is to clean out the gas tank, I put on 6 gallons of fresh premium gas (I know these old textures didn't like that corn fed gas). There are two on the hydro lines leaking so I might need to plug those until I get new lines or seals installed. Right now is I can get the running issues taken care of I'll be using the 3 point mostly. I'll also be doing an oil change and antifreeze change just for my peace of mind. The gauges seen to work other than the odometer which reads 0504.5.
I need to find manuals for the 830 CJ since I'm not familiar with them as much as the SC/DC series.
It's going to be an adventure for sure but once I get this figured out it'll be a great tractor to use. Hoping to have it running at peak for a tractor show in a couple weeks.

Thanks for your compliments and help guys. I really appreciate it.

Gene

I ran my 8n Ford for one whole summer with E-85 with a slight opening of the high speed needle. Worked great.

 

[jon f mn]

To tighten the hand throttle there is a double nut on the shaft at the bottom of the column, you can get at it through the hole in the casting. Just tighten til you get the resistance you want.

 

[Wrangler1973]

The tank is for the most part cleaned. My thought is that the tank liner dissolved which caused the chugging issues when it was moving. I'll have to order the tank liner later and hopefully get that issue resolved. My uncle soldered the radiator drain and support so now I'm ready to reassemble the front end. I'll pressure wash the remaining sludge out of the front basin. I need to update the hoses to the radiator and air cleaner. Hopefully I have it back together and running this weekend.

Gene

 

[Wrangler1973]

Hell has been unleashed today. Currently it's 2:10pm the air temp according to my phone is 93 but feels like 106. Regardless I started reassembling the front end of the 830. It took a few tries and obligatory cuss words before I finally got things put back together. I just need to get a couple cage nuts, hose clamps then the front back to the gas tank should be ready to go (only worry is the radiator hoses I got yesterday might be too big and will leak. Then after that it's putting the gas tank back on and adding the lights for the dash that I got from John Saeli.
As I was disassembling the dash I noticed another switch down by the clutch that was connected to a large fuse like what would run signal/hazard lights, was this for flashers? One of the connectors was rusted off. I tried looking for something similar at Napa but didn't see anything like it. Hopefully I'll have it back together mid week depending on weather and work so I can get it down to a local town festival/tractor ride this weekend.

Gene.

 

[casecollectorsc]

Yep, flasher switch.

 

[Wrangler1973]

Would anyone know where to get one, or have have a suggestion if one can't be found? I checked Napa, tractor supply and external_link websites as well as Amazon and eBay but didn't see anything. I thought about trying to reattach the broken prong but that doesn't seem likely either.

Gene

 

[Jim.ME]

Would anyone know where to get one, or have have a suggestion if one can't be found? I checked Napa, tractor supply and external_link websites as well as Amazon and eBay but didn't see anything. I thought about trying to reattach the broken prong but that doesn't seem likely either.

Gene

Searching with the pat numbers gets some results.

The parts book shows A34866 as the original switch number and the recommended substitute is 394771R92.

 

[Wrangler1973]

Searching with the pat numbers gets some results.

The parts book shows A34866 as the original switch number and the recommended substitute is 394771R92.

View attachment 158781

Thanks Jim. I don't have a manual or parts book, yet, I'll have to get one. I appreciate your help.

Gene

 

[Jim.ME]

Thanks Jim. I don't have a manual or parts book, yet, I'll have to get one. I appreciate your help.

Gene

The parts book is online at Mycnhstore. Two choices for the 830, pick yours.

Mycnhstore_Case

 

[Wrangler1973]

Working on reassembly on the 830. The radiator is back in, the one hose for the water pump is a little too big but I have it clamped to hopefully hold the coolant in. The gas tank is back on, I didn't get the tank liner yet, that might be a winter project. I'm currently working on the dash to install the new dash lights I got. There's a light for the temp gauge but I need to figure out how to wire that, if anyone can reply with a tip that would be greatly appreciated. The other wires pictured are a head scratcher as well. The green wire is connected to the starter switch the blue one was connected to the fuel gauge. Can I just directly connect the green to the post on the gauge?

Gene

 

[Tgrasher]

The temperature light red wire should be connected to your light switch, the black wire would be for ground. In Case color coding, blue wires are for fuel and the gauge should have one hot wire and one going to the tank sending unit. Not sure what the green wire would be. I'll look in my books today to see if my "older model" books can give a clue.