New Holland 2120 pull arms

[Old One TK]

Anyone try to beef up these wimpy arms? Already had to straighten them out once.
Thinking about adding some kind of strongback that still accommodates the attaching points/attachments. I've heard that the arms on the 1920 are heavier (?). Would they interchange?

 

[used red MN]

Anyone try to beef up these wimpy arms? Already had to straighten them out once.
Thinking about adding some kind of strongback that still accommodates the attaching points/attachments. I've heard that the arms on the 1920 are heavier (?). Would they interchange?

Hello OOT, welcome to YT! What implement is on the tractor and what are you doing with it that bends them? Photos of the “arms” would be helpful.

 

[paul]

I’m guessing you are talking about the 3pt lower arms?

Are yours original, or replacement aftermarket? I’ve seen very bendable cheap replacements….

Even so, while pulling something they shouldn’t bend. Even the cheapies. Hat bends them is for example using a back blade in reverse. So you are pushing with them instead of pulling.

So…. Let us know what you have so we are on the same page, and then what you are doing with the tractor that bends them?

My 1720 has some nice strong arms. For the 27 hp tractor.

My Ford 960 came with nice strong arms.

I got a cheapie to use on the 960 when a ball end wore out, and it was very bendable when pushing backwards with that arm.

I’m not exactly familiar with your model so don’t know what is on it.

Paul

 

[Old One TK]

I’m guessing you are talking about the 3pt lower arms?

Are yours original, or replacement aftermarket? I’ve seen very bendable cheap replacements….

Even so, while pulling something they shouldn’t bend. Even the cheapies. Hat bends them is for example using a back blade in reverse. So you are pushing with them instead of pulling.

So…. Let us know what you have so we are on the same page, and then what you are doing with the tractor that bends them?

My 1720 has some nice strong arms. For the 27 hp tractor.

My Ford 960 came with nice strong arms.

I got a cheapie to use on the 960 when a ball end wore out, and it was very bendable when pushing backwards with that arm.

I’m not exactly familiar with your model so don’t know what is on it.

Paul

Thanks Paul! It's my son's tractor. He has done quite a bit of work with the box scraper, honestly I hadn't thought about that. Never noticed a bend, though. Most of the recent work is making hay. Small drum mower ( still... quite a bit of weight hanging back there) and a a three point tedder. Rough fields bouncing things around pretty good. He's mowing again today, so we'll see if things hold up after the straightening.

 

[used red MN]

Thanks Paul! It's my son's tractor. He has done quite a bit of work with the box scraper, honestly I hadn't thought about that. Never noticed a bend, though. Most of the recent work is making hay. Small drum mower ( still... quite a bit of weight hanging back there) and a a three point tedder. Rough fields bouncing things around pretty good. He's mowing again today, so we'll see if things hold up after the straightening.

If it is bending and the bend is on a straight solid piece I certainly would have no problem suggesting laying a 3/8” by 1/2” bar stock along the part that is bending and welding it on if you have a welder or know someone that has one. I’d weld the 3/8” side to the arm so the 1/2” side is there to add a “rib” for strength. I would use “stagger intermittent” welds 1 1/2” - 2” long, look that term up and then you’ll see what I am talking about. Heck, even laying a couple of weld beads alone down the length of the part that is bending will stiffen it up quite a bit. Although if you sell it you might get questioned about their purpose.

 

[Old One TK]

If it is bending and the bend is on a straight solid piece I certainly would have no problem suggesting laying a 3/8” by 1/2” bar stock along the part that is bending and welding it on if you have a welder or know someone that has one. I’d weld the 3/8” side to the arm so the 1/2” side is there to add a “rib” for strength. I would use “stagger intermittent” welds 1 1/2” - 2” long, look that term up and then you’ll see what I am talking about. Heck, even laying a couple of weld beads alone down the length of the part that is bending will stiffen it up quite a bit. Although if you sell it you might get questioned about their purpose.

Well he just got home. The side with the hydraulic lift arm is bent. Another really rough field. Bounce you off the seat rough. We did this one for our friend who had committed to the job, but health prevented him from doing it. That is the second field this year that my son said we are not going to do again, unless they are improved. If we can get past this one we'll have time to reinforce things. New arms are about $220. We're not making anything on these fields. Sold a little, enough to cover costs...minus broken equipment. Crossing our fingers . Thanks for the advice. Really appreciate it.

 

[Texasmark]

My 3000 Ford has "wimpy" Cat 1 arms. My 3600 has wimpy Cat 1 arms with a perpendicular "rib" welded into the sides of them for strength. So I would expect if you have wimpy arms, weld in a perpendicular brace.

 

[paul]

I mowed my pasture this month, it is very rough where the cattle dug out wallows like pigs would do. Grown over now so can’t see them but sure bounced through them! It was rough.

The Workmaster 75 held up with the disc mower. And baler. And loading out the round bales. The 1720 held up raking. Both tractors have not very goid seat suspension, I’m not sure I held up very well.


Anyhow. We are assuming your arms are bending side to side, not stretching downward? That still seems like a cheaper aftermarket arm made of softer steel that bends. Most original arms are a tougher steel that doesn’t want to bend.

Adding the rib to what you have as others suggest would help a lot. An arm that bent and is bent back straight has a weak spot now where the iron flexed, so likely will bend again.

Paul

 

[used red MN]

perpendicular "rib" welded

Might have to go back and refresh your geometry class, I would guess instead of perpendicular you meant parallel?
Edit: Oops, my apologies! See replies 10 and 11.

 

[paul]

Depends on your orientation I guess?

I would have called it perpendicular, as the tall side of the arm is perpendicular to the tall side of the rib.

I see where you get parallel from, as both the arm and the rib are parallel to each other. But I wouldn’t want the arm and the rib to be laying flat to each other.

Looking on the end down the arm, I want the rib to be sticking out perpendicular.

If that makes sense.

 

[used red MN]

Depends on your orientation I guess?

I would have called it perpendicular, as the tall side of the arm is perpendicular to the tall side of the rib.

I see where you get parallel from, as both the arm and the rib are parallel to each other. But I wouldn’t want the arm and the rib to be laying flat to each other.

Looking on the end down the arm, I want the rib to be sticking out perpendicular.

If that makes sense.

I could see that as helpful to clarify his use of the term perpendicular.

 

[showcrop]

A friend once broke an arm on one of my tractors with a drum mower. They are heavy and the weight is way out there.

 

[Texasmark]

Might have to go back and refresh your geometry class, I would guess instead of perpendicular you meant parallel?
Edit: Oops, my apologies! See replies 10 and 11.

Depends on how you are looking at the arm. If it bends in the middle of the small cross sectional dimension, it needs some "height" to strengthen it. Adding "height" to a surface is a perpendicular "height" element!!

 

[showcrop]

Well he just got home. The side with the hydraulic lift arm is bent. Another really rough field. Bounce you off the seat rough. We did this one for our friend who had committed to the job, but health prevented him from doing it. That is the second field this year that my son said we are not going to do again, unless they are improved. If we can get past this one we'll have time to reinforce things. New arms are about $220. We're not making anything on these fields. Sold a little, enough to cover costs...minus broken equipment. Crossing our fingers . Thanks for the advice. Really appreciate it.

I have seen many arms reinforced by adding similar thickness stock usually to the top, usually over the middle half.

 

[Old One TK]

I sure appreciate all the input. This is a great community. I am assuming that the arms are OEM, but I don't know for sure. I think we are done with baling (). Going to give the equipment some much needed love in the off season. Fairly excited for next year, as we picked up a Hesston 555T round baler recently. Thanks again.