Thread watched 1550 bull gear pinion removal, follow up

[Mike(NEOhio)]

Got everything out and cleaned up. The seal I put in last year looks OK. I want to pull the brake housing to check the pinion shaft. One of the three bolt heads was rounded off. An 11/16 six point and a bit of hammer and it came out but I can't get it to budge even with a four foot pry bar. Open to any suggestions. I'm thinking of tapping the holes for the long bolts to 5/8 and putting a 1/2 inch stub screw in each one and using the 5/8 as jack screws. I think there is a dowel from the housing to the main case so I can't rotate it to break loose. Any ideas?

 

[matthies]

A 2 lb hammer and punch and give the bolt the best you have. Helps loosen the bolt, I started doing this on manifold bolts, then when a bolt doesn't move, out comes the big hammer and punch.

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

A 2 lb hammer and punch and give the bolt the best you have. Helps loosen the bolt, I started doing this on manifold bolts, then when a bolt doesn't move, out comes the big hammer and punch.

The bolts are out. Now how to get the housing away from the main case.

 

[scootergmc]

Yes, I believe there is a dowel. I'd get some pressure behind it with a bar and give the housing some whacks with a rubber mallet.

 

[matthies]

The bolts are out. Now how to get the housing away from the main case.

Sorry, but can still use the hammer and work your way around the housing, the ears at the 2 and 8 position are going to be your helpers on getting this to move, just don't get carried away. LOL

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

Took some measurements this morning. The holes for the long bolts are 3-3/8 deep and loose on a 17/32 drill so OK for a 5/8 tap. The tapped holes in the main case are 2 inches deep and don't go through into the case. Going to cut the heads off 1/2 inch bolts, screw into the case and 5/8 bolts to jack the housing out. I'm guessing it will still need some hammering as well. Need to save the shims and get a new O-ring. May not get to it today but I'll keep y'all posted.

 

[scootergmc]

Did you try the lever and mallet method?

Or wedge a chisel in there and mallet?

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

Did you try the lever and mallet method?

Or wedge a chisel in there and mallet?

Tried that, chisel under one of the ears, hammer on the bottom ear and brake lever area and a 4 foot prybar on the upper rear ear. I think the hammering moved it .002 looking at the shims, but maybe not.

 

[scootergmc]

That there's progress!

 

[I550]

Tried that, chisel under one of the ears, hammer on the bottom ear and brake lever area and a 4 foot prybar on the upper rear ear. I think the hammering moved it .002 looking at the shims, but maybe not.

I saw a White mechanic use a hydraulic device like car frames are straightened with. He pushed the brake housing out from inside the gear case. It had a hand pump and a cylinder about the size of a hockey puck on it. I think it was a 2-70 tractor. That was a long time ago.

 

[scootergmc]

I saw a White mechanic use a hydraulic device like car frames are straightened with. He pushed the brake housing out from inside the gear case. It had a hand pump and a cylinder about the size of a hockey puck on it. I think it was a 2-70 tractor. That was a long time ago.

Sounds like a porta-power, which would make sense if working form the inside. Great tools.

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

Well, this didn't work.
Tapped the hole for 5/8

Piece of 1/2 threaded stock, put a 3/8 hex on the end

And screwed it to below the face of the housing

A 5/8 bolt to push on it

and the result was.....

The holes were loose on the 17/32 tap drill and hard to turn tap. Seems they are cast in and not drilled. Didn't cut a full thread around the hole.
I'm open to any new ideas.

 

[Jim.ME]

I would have put jack bolts in all the holes of the housing and tightened evenly while tapping on the housing. One bolt likely cocked enough to overload the casting given the loose fit you mention. Thin taper wedges will work better than cold chisels. Wood chisels and screwdrivers can be options. Best if you can get one near the dowel pin. Do you have an Oxy/acetylene torch to put some heat in the area of the dowel?

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

I would have put jack bolts in all the holes of the housing and tightened evenly while tapping on the housing. One bolt likely cocked enough to overload the casting given the loose fit you mention. Thin taper wedges will work better than cold chisels. Wood chisels and screwdrivers can be options. Best if you can get one near the dowel pin. Do you have an Oxy/acetylene torch to put some heat in the area of the dowel?

Yeah, I think that's what happened. I had such a hard time tapping I decided to just try one to see if it could just get started. The holes aren't even round. The threads I did cut were shallow and ran out on one side. I'm considering renting a three jaw puller but the only place for the screw to push is the shaft itself and that would put all the force on the thrust bearings in the differential.

 

[RCP]

This video from Chris might help with the brake rebuild, but he does not remove the brake housings.

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

This video from Chris might help with the brake rebuild, but he does not remove the brake housings.

Yes, I did all that last fall but it started leaking again. The new seal looks OK so I think the shaft may be bad.

 

[rrlund]

At this point I think I might cut my losses and install a Speedy Sleeve.