TO-30 clogging sediment bowl

[WI Dan]

Tractor runs for 3-4 minutes then shuts down. Dump the sediment bowl, flush it out, go again for 3-4 minutes.
I peeked in gas tank. The cap is corroded, but the tank seems okay?
The tractor has sat for a while, only gets run a few hours a year.
What's my best course of action here?
Pictures coming next:

 

[WI Dan]

Tractor runs for 3-4 minutes then shuts down. Dump the sediment bowl, flush it out, go again for 3-4 minutes.
I peeked in gas tank. The cap is corroded, but the tank seems okay?
The tractor has sat for a while, only gets run a few hours a year.
What's my best course of action here?
Pictures coming next:

 

[pomester]

Tractor runs for 3-4 minutes then shuts down. Dump the sediment bowl, flush it out, go again for 3-4 minutes.
I peeked in gas tank. The cap is corroded, but the tank seems okay?
The tractor has sat for a while, only gets run a few hours a year.
What's my best course of action here?
Pictures coming next:

Gasoline looks old and contaminated. I'd drain and flush the tank and fill with fresh gasoline. You might consider getting an original style shut-off valve and settling bowl, your bowl is rather small. While I was at it, I'd drain the carburetor and check the screen associated with the inlet fitting. For a tractor only used a few hours a year, I'd suggest non ethanol gasoline and some 'Stabil' or some such product. A bit of Marvel Mystery Oil in the gasoline will help reduce any corrosion in the tank.

 

[Ray,IN]

Arrange a catch pan or funnel to one, under the sediment bowl, remove it, then drain N flush the gas tank. Depending on year that sediment bowl is the right one, but a larger one cannot hurt.
The OEM HF sediment bowls have a plastic filter screen above the sediment bowl that fits into the casting. I does not drop out, it must be intentionally removed and cleaned.
That appears to be very old gasoline.

 

[Charles in Aus.]

Nothing is more annoying than persistent fuel blockages. Bite the bullet , remove the tank and give it a good clean . What is often un noticed is the crud that accumulates on the top of the tank that falls in with vibration.
A pressure washer will do a good job , otherwise a hand full of fishing sinkers and a really , really good shake will clean it well . I put the worst tanks on a concrete mixer , wrap it in a blanket , strap it on with a ratchet strap , stand back and leave it making a really obnoxious noise for a half hour . Results are amazing .

 

[pomester]

Arrange a catch pan or funnel to one, under the sediment bowl, remove it, then drain N flush the gas tank. Depending on year that sediment bowl is the right one, but a larger one cannot hurt.
The OEM HF sediment bowls have a plastic filter screen above the sediment bowl that fits into the casting. I does not drop out, it must be intentionally removed and cleaned.
That appears to be very old gasoline.

 

[pomester]

"Depending on year that sediment bowl is the right one, but a larger one cannot hurt."

That plumbing does not look original. I was under the impression that all TO-30's had the two stage valve with gasoline reserve. If you can point me to this alternative, I am interested.

 

[Brown David]

"Depending on year that sediment bowl is the right one, but a larger one cannot hurt."

That plumbing does not look original. I was under the impression that all TO-30's had the two stage valve with gasoline reserve. If you can point me to this alternative, I am interested.

Likewise.

I've never seen that type of sediment bowl/valve combination on any Fergie or MF.

 

[WI Dan]

Gasoline looks old and contaminated. I'd drain and flush the tank and fill with fresh gasoline. You might consider getting an original style shut-off valve and settling bowl, your bowl is rather small. While I was at it, I'd drain the carburetor and check the screen associated with the inlet fitting. For a tractor only used a few hours a year, I'd suggest non ethanol gasoline and some 'Stabil' or some such product. A bit of Marvel Mystery Oil in the gasoline will help reduce any corrosion in the tank.

Thanks for the tips! Drain and flush. Fresh gas. Non ethanol (premium) with Sta-Bil.
Clean carburetor and screen. I can do all that.

I'm trying to find a way to see in the rest of the tank. maybe a mirror on a stick.

 

[WI Dan]

Arrange a catch pan or funnel to one, under the sediment bowl, remove it, then drain N flush the gas tank. Depending on year that sediment bowl is the right one, but a larger one cannot hurt.
The OEM HF sediment bowls have a plastic filter screen above the sediment bowl that fits into the casting. I does not drop out, it must be intentionally removed and cleaned.
That appears to be very old gasoline.

Thank you Ray. I'll do this. and look for the plastic filter screen.

The sediment bowl seems small to me too, but it has worked. About four years ago, the tractor would run for 30minutes without issue. So the problem has developed recently.
It's at a widow lady's house. We help her with yard cleanup once a year. The tractor pulls a trailer to load/carry branches. That's all it's been used for in the past four years since I met her.

 

[WI Dan]

Nothing is more annoying than persistent fuel blockages. Bite the bullet , remove the tank and give it a good clean . What is often un noticed is the crud that accumulates on the top of the tank that falls in with vibration.
A pressure washer will do a good job , otherwise a hand full of fishing sinkers and a really , really good shake will clean it well . I put the worst tanks on a concrete mixer , wrap it in a blanket , strap it on with a ratchet strap , stand back and leave it making a really obnoxious noise for a half hour . Results are amazing .

I'm hoping for a quick clean at this point, but I believe you are correct. A deep-clean will be needed in the future.
I didn't think about the top ceiling of the tank. Interesting.... I'll have to look at that, maybe with a mirror.

Does the tank come out easily? Just a few bolts I hope?

 

[WI Dan]

Likewise.

I've never seen that type of sediment bowl/valve combination on any Fergie or MF.

Brown David and pomester
This tractor was the widow's father's. He was a heavy equipment mechanic in Milwaukee. I'm quite sure he modified the fuel system, as the whole tractor has been modified with a winch, plow blade, and log jammer.
I doubt the fuel system is original.

 

[Jim.ME]

Possible plugging right in the inlet of the sediment bowl assembly. Flow may resume after it is stopped and suction of fuel going to the bowl stops. Also turning the valve to shut fuel off before draining the bowl can move crud around enough to let flow through for a short time.

 

[WI Dan]

I believe this makes it a 1951 model.

 

[Brown David]

I believe this makes it a 1951 model.

According to the Tractor Data site, yes it is.

 

[Ray,IN]

I'm hoping for a quick clean at this point, but I believe you are correct. A deep-clean will be needed in the future.
I didn't think about the top ceiling of the tank. Interesting.... I'll have to look at that, maybe with a mirror.

Does the tank come out easily? Just a few bolts I hope?

Tank removal involves 2 front bolts and 2 rear bolts, however the fly in the ointment is under the tank, there is a spring-tension hook on the tank bottom with a loop mounted to the valve cover. I was never successful in removing the hook, consequently replacing the hook was never encountered.
The OEM sediment bowl assy. has a screen on the top of the threads that screw into the tank. That screen has an open top. It's purpose is to catch crud in the tank bottom and prevent it from plugging the small hole that allows fuel into the glass bowl. If the screen is intact, it's likely plugged with crud, which causes crud to flow over the top of the screen and down into that hole and into the sediment bowl.

 

[Ray,IN]

"Depending on year that sediment bowl is the right one, but a larger one cannot hurt."

That plumbing does not look original. I was under the impression that all TO-30's had the two stage valve with gasoline reserve. If you can point me to this alternative, I am interested.

Right! the original fuel flow valve has a knurled round knob, or a simple rod with a 90% bend to make a handle. Open 2 turns and it keeps 1 gallon of gas in reserve. Run out of gas_ open the fuel flow completely. Now you have enough gas to get back to the barn.

 

[Charles in Aus.]

I'm hoping for a quick clean at this point, but I believe you are correct. A deep-clean will be needed in the future.
I didn't think about the top ceiling of the tank. Interesting.... I'll have to look at that, maybe with a mirror.

Does the tank come out easily? Just a few bolts I hope?

Simple , no tricky bits at all. Takes about 30min of leisurely work . Added benefit is that you can then adjust the valve clearances easily .

 

[WI Dan]

Simple , no tricky bits at all. Takes about 30min of leisurely work . Added benefit is that you can then adjust the valve clearances easily .

Valve clearance?
I don't know what that means?

 

[Charles in Aus.]

Once the tank is removed you have easy access to the rocker cover . This can be opened and the engine valves' ; intake and exhaust , clearances can be adjusted . It may sound complicated but is a fairly straightforward process . Adjusting these clearances can restore power , allow the engine to run smoothly , contribute to better fuel economy and prevent burnt valves or excessive engine wear .
Ignoring these adjustments is what contributes to many engine failures .
There are many You Tube tutorials on this subject , I would recommend looking at those by the Australian ' Bundy Bear ' .