Ford diesel tractor will not turn over

[BigMike1968]

I am having the hardest time trying to get this tractor just to turn over. It’s not making any noise or starter is not engaging at all. Been working for it on it for a month. I have replaced the starter, all wiring, battery, neutral switch and ignition switch. I’m going to attach photos of my set up. If anybody can tell me why this thing is not turning over would be helpful. Thank you.

 

[used red MN]

Hello Big Mike, welcome to YT! What happens if you pull the white wire off of the spade terminal of the solenoid and use a screwdriver to jump from the top solenoid post to the spade? MAKE SURE THE TRANSMISSION IS IN NEUTRAL BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT THIS! Would be helpful to know the tractor model.

 

[used red MN]

Hello Big Mike, welcome to YT! What happens if you pull the white wire off of the spade terminal of the solenoid and use a screwdriver to jump from the top solenoid post to the spade? MAKE SURE THE TRANSMISSION IS IN NEUTRAL BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT THIS! Would be helpful to know the tractor model.

Are there any identification letters for the terminals on the ignition switch? If so pull the wires off and show a photo of them.

 

[BigMike1968]

Are there any identification letters for the terminals on the ignition switch? If so pull the wires off and show a photo of them.

Thank you for responding my post. It is a 2000 series tractor that was built in England as far as I can tell from the serial numbers. When I take the white plug off the starter and try to jump it, I used a wire to connect to the spade and tried to touch the top post where I’m getting the voltage and it doesn’t do anything. My understanding is that lower spade is where the neutral switch is plugged in. There is another spade above it, which my understanding is where the ignition switch is supposed to be, but I don’t have that wiring set . It came with a round connector that I put to the top post which is the yellow wire. I did use a multimeter to the top post of the solenoid where the positive is connected and I am getting 12.65 V. I have attached a picture of the ignition switch.

 

[BigMike1968]

Are there any identification letters for the terminals on the ignition switch? If so pull the wires off and show a photo of them.

This might be a better picture of the ignition switch numbers. Also added the starter picture

 

[used red MN]

When I take the white plug off the starter and try to jump it, I used a wire to connect to the spade and tried to touch the top post where I’m getting the voltage and it doesn’t do anything. My understanding is that lower spade is where the neutral switch is plugged in. There is another spade above it, which my understanding is where the ignition switch is supposed to be, but I don’t have that wiring set .

Seeing what you’re saying and looking closer at the instructions for you starter let’s try this. Take a wire and place it on C terminal. Then again “make sure the tractor is in neutral” hold the key to the start position and touch the opposite end or the wire on the C terminal to the back plate of the starter(ground it). This is a bit of a leap of faith but I think it is correct. Apparently the way I see it the solenoid activation circuit relies on the C terminal to provide its ground. This would be through safety switches etc. which may even be relying on a function in that “module box” I’ll call it shown in one of your pictures. Or is that the fuse box in photo 1151?

 

[BigMike1968]

I took the C connector and grounded it to the negative on the starter and had the ignition switch in the start mode. Nothing happened.

 

[BigMike1968]

I took the C connector and grounded it to the negative on the starter and had the ignition switch in the start mode. Nothing happened.

Also want to know that this is the second new starter I have tried I thought the first one was bad. I did get it to jump one time and I don’t remember how I did it so I don’t think its the starter.

 

[a49deere]

Have you tried to jump the large green tipped stud with the stud on top right of starter to remove solenoid from the equation? Do you have continuity between green tipped stud and the other stud on solenoid when you turn key to start position? Do you get 12v on wire coming from switch to solenoid when you turn key to start position?

 

[used red MN]

I took the C connector and grounded it to the negative on the starter and had the ignition switch in the start mode. Nothing happened.

Then jump from the top solenoid battery cable terminal to B terminal at the same time as your grounding C.

 

[used red MN]

Have you tried to jump the large green tipped stud with the stud on top right od starter to remove solenoid from the equation?

A solenoid starter like this with a positive engage drive also needs the solenoid coil energized at the same time to make your test successful.

 

[BigMike1968]

When I connect a wire to B which is the ignition spade and I touch it to A I get big sparks and the starter turns over. C is not even grounded and it turns over. should I try to ground C before I touch it to B?

 

[used red MN]

When I connect a wire to B which is the ignition spade and I touch it to A I get big sparks and the starter wants to turn over. C is not to be grounded and it turns over. should I try to ground C before I touch it to B?

I don’t think you’re getting “big sparks” probably just “some” sparks. You’re probably just not used to working with this type of stuff. Good so far, I’ll probably be busy the rest of the evening.

 

[BigMike1968]

I don’t think you’re getting “big sparks” probably just “some” sparks. You’re probably just not used to working with this type of stuff. Good so far, I’ll probably be busy the rest of the evening.

Thank you

 

[Sean in PA]

My first guess is that the neutral safety switch isn't engaging. The switch could be bad, or the pieces inside the transmission top cover could be worn so that the switch just can't be engaged properly. You can try unplugging the two wires going down from under the dash to the transmission top cover and plug them into each other to bypass the switch. Again, make sure that the transmission is in neutral before turning the key to the start position.

 

[BigMike1968]

My first guess is that the neutral safety switch isn't engaging. The switch could be bad, or the pieces inside the transmission top cover could be worn so that the switch just can't be engaged properly. You can try unplugging the two wires going down from under the dash to the transmission top cover and plug them into each other to bypass the switch. Again, make sure that the transmission is in neutral before turning the key to the start position.

Thanks for the reply, I did that earlier.

 

[used red MN]

My first guess is that the neutral safety switch isn't engaging. The switch could be bad, or the pieces inside the transmission top cover could be worn so that the switch just can't be engaged properly. You can try unplugging the two wires going down from under the dash to the transmission top cover and plug them into each other to bypass the switch. Again, make sure that the transmission is in neutral before turning the key to the start position.

Sean, do you know what that means on his instructions “connect C to a 12 volt Aux. safety switch” and how does that work? Do you happen to have a wiring diagram for this tractor that you could share?

 

[Destroked 450]

According to my diagram the switch is wired correctly
Do you have a test meter or test light
Hook a meter or test lighth to the white wire at the starter and see if there is power to that wire with the key in the start position
If there is move the wire up to terminal B and try to crank the engine
If no power on the white wire in start position check at the switch to see if terminal #5 as power in the start position

 

[Hacke]

Connect the wire from safety switch to tab B (the upper one). Leave tab C disconnected. It is for low current loads, like bypassing a ballast resistor on a gasoline engine. It is connected to tab B internally with a thin wire. Chances are that the wire melted when you tried to engage the solenoid through it.

 

[used red MN]

Leave tab C disconnected. It is for low current loads, like bypassing a ballast resistor on a gasoline engine. It is connected to tab B internally with a thin wire.

So how does that work? If it powers a bypass circuit on a gas engine and the two are internally connected then the powered ignition circuit would keep the solenoid engaged. I can see your explanation working if there is a diode in there, in which case powering that terminal would have no ill effect because the diode would not allow back-flow to the pull-in coil. Not sure if you have had a Delco solenoid apart, but the terminal in those for that purpose has its own contact tab that only energizes when touching the contactor washer is in the start position.