Gettong a 1946 John Deere B going again

[LWG]

Hi guys,
This B has been shedded but not run in over 15 years and the fuel tanks were not drained, yes they are an awful mess. I now have decent compression on both cylinders, I'm working on the carb and it is rebuildable, haven't taken the mag apart but I am working on understanding it. Please advise me on what to do with the tanks, I really hope that I don't have to take them off the tractor to get the rust and crap out of them. Can you help me? Thanks! LWG

 

[a49deere]

a lot depends on the level of "rust and crap" I've stuck a turbo nozzle into one and sprayed it out the best I could then let a small shop vac blow air into it until dry then vacuumed out any debris that were left. But that was with tank off tractor. You'll find out really quick if tank is thin!

 

[showcrop]

I was able to get some pretty bad stuff out of the tank of a diesel when I got it by just siphoning. 25 years ago and no problems since.

 

[Loosehandle]

Likely mouse nests on top of fuel tank rusting through and falling inside plus whats already inside. There are few shortcuts with old tractors.

 

[Watthour]

I had a '36 Case RC among the stable of 20+ Deere units. The fuel tank on that was so nasty I could have used the sediment to patch asphalt. it required three applications of methanol ("denatured" alcohol soaking for at least a day with agitation to finally be able to see steel in the bottom of the tank. I was lucky that it didn't find any pinhole leaks, and held fuel just fine. Of course, the sediment bowl was monitored closely once it was running and emptied regularly of any stray pieces of tar and grit. If your tank is sound, and only nasty filthy, that could be an option for you also.

 

[LWG]

I had a '36 Case RC among the stable of 20+ Deere units. The fuel tank on that was so nasty I could have used the sediment to patch asphalt. it required three applications of methanol ("denatured" alcohol soaking for at least a day with agitation to finally be able to see steel in the bottom of the tank. I was lucky that it didn't find any pinhole leaks, and held fuel just fine. Of course, the sediment bowl was monitored closely once it was running and emptied regularly of any stray pieces of tar and grit. If your tank is sound, and only nasty filthy, that could be an option for you also.

Both of the tanks are rusty, today I pressure washed and did the “ rock tumbler” thing with some stones by hand until I was wore out. Re pressure washed and it seems like it might be ok if I keep my eye on the sediment bowl. Then I dried it out the best I could and sprayed a little PB blaster on and in. Btw, I did remove the hood and both tanks. Both tanks seem structurally sound.
Thank you!

 

[a49deere]

Both of the tanks are rusty, today I pressure washed and did the “ rock tumbler” thing with some stones by hand until I was wore out. Re pressure washed and it seems like it might be ok if I keep my eye on the sediment bowl. Then I dried it out the best I could and sprayed a little PB blaster on and in. Btw, I did remove the hood and both tanks. Both tanks seem structurally sound.
Thank you!

throw a smidge of diesel fuel in tank every so often to keep rust under control!

 

[Mark-Ia]

Both of the tanks are rusty, today I pressure washed and did the “ rock tumbler” thing with some stones by hand until I was wore out. Re pressure washed and it seems like it might be ok if I keep my eye on the sediment bowl. Then I dried it out the best I could and sprayed a little PB blaster on and in. Btw, I did remove the hood and both tanks. Both tanks seem structurally sound.
Thank you!

Easier to use 1/4" nuts and a magnet to get them out after you're done tumbling.

 

[LWG]

Easier to use 1/4" nuts and a magnet to get them out after you're done tumbling.

Great idea! Those rocks were a pain to get out. Next time.....
Thank you!

 

[TomBexley]

With a tractor that's been sitting 15 years, Treat the tank as a separate project from getting the engine to fire. Before putting that rusty tank back in service, I'd pull the sediment bowl/fuel outlet and see what actually comes out of the lowest point. If it's still shedding flakes after rinsing, every carb cleaning is going to be temporary. For the first start, a clean temporary fuel source would at least let you prove carb, mag and compression without wondering whether another chunk of rust just plugged something. Then you can decide whether the tank really needs to come off, be repaired or replaced. Sounds like you're already doing the smart thing by waking it up one system at a time.

 

[a49deere]

With a tractor that's been sitting 15 years, Treat the tank as a separate project from getting the engine to fire. Before putting that rusty tank back in service, I'd pull the sediment bowl/fuel outlet and see what actually comes out of the lowest point. If it's still shedding flakes after rinsing, every carb cleaning is going to be temporary. For the first start, a clean temporary fuel source would at least let you prove carb, mag and compression without wondering whether another chunk of rust just plugged something. Then you can decide whether the tank really needs to come off, be repaired or replaced. Sounds like you're already doing the smart thing by waking it up one system at a time.

Did you read? He already took the tank off and cleaned it!

 

[hurleyjd]

Easier to use 1/4" nuts and a magnet to get them out after you're done tumbling.

10 feet of small link chain will work also

 

[LWG]

With a tractor that's been sitting 15 years, Treat the tank as a separate project from getting the engine to fire. Before putting that rusty tank back in service, I'd pull the sediment bowl/fuel outlet and see what actually comes out of the lowest point. If it's still shedding flakes after rinsing, every carb cleaning is going to be temporary. For the first start, a clean temporary fuel source would at least let you prove carb, mag and compression without wondering whether another chunk of rust just plugged something. Then you can decide whether the tank really needs to come off, be repaired or replaced. Sounds like you're already doing the smart thing by waking it up one system at a time.

Sage advice. Grateful to you

With a tractor that's been sitting 15 years, Treat the tank as a separate project from getting the engine to fire. Before putting that rusty tank back in service, I'd pull the sediment bowl/fuel outlet and see what actually comes out of the lowest point. If it's still shedding flakes after rinsing, every carb cleaning is going to be temporary. For the first start, a clean temporary fuel source would at least let you prove carb, mag and compression without wondering whether another chunk of rust just plugged something. Then you can decide whether the tank really needs to come off, be repaired or replaced. Sounds like you're already doing the smart thing by waking it up one system

O

 

[LWG]

Hey guys, I get continuity/resistance through the primary windings of the coil but not throught the secondary windings. I'm thinking the coil needs to be replaced?

 

[Watthour]

I had a '46 A that had a mag, and a '48 B that had a Delco distributor, so I can't guess what your '46 B might have. Be sure you are measuring resistance on at least a 100KΩ scale, between the spark tower (HV) lead and either of the primary winding terminals.

If it is a Kettering (points) system, a new coil is a cheap date. Just be certain it's the correct voltage. A 6V coil for my '48 M was under $35 a couple years ago, and it was not an import.