Got 12V kit, lost docs, anyone recognize this?

[1 Acre Warrior]

I see you are located in central Minnesota. A 12 volt coil should still work well for you when temperatures are above zero F and the starting battery is in good condition.

The 6 volt coil with a bypass resistor setup is for an extra hot spark during starting in below zero F weather when the battery voltages are lowest, engine oils are thickest and gas engines are just harder to get started. As engine compression ratios increased, most 12 volt tractors, cars and trucks, including most Fords, used a 6 volt coil with bypass resistor from when 12 volt systems became standard in the late 1950s on into the 1980s. You should be able to find wiring diagrams and parts lists from late 1950s and 1960s Ford gas tractors cars or trucks that used a bypass resistor ( Ford 600, 800, 2000, 3000, 4000, etc. ).

I did not see a new coil, a new solenoid or a resistor in your conversion kit. Cost might be about a wash between buying a new 12 volt coil or buying a new solenoid and bypass resistor.

Give it a try as-is for one winter to see if it works for you. An N series Ford tractor should be low compression and be easy to start in 30 below temperatures. As the 12 volt battery gets weaker a 6 volt coil with a bypass resistor might let your battery continue to start the tractor for an extra year or two before the battery needs to be replaced.

No new coil, but got a 3.3 Ohm resistor. I'm not going to be using this in cold weather (I'm in northern Nevada, and don't do yard work in freezing weather).

 

[OldBlue61]

Not sure if what I did will help you or not, but I converted mine to 12v with the help of a lot of the members on this forum. The following link and posts after that one have info on what I did. LINK

 

[1 Acre Warrior]

Got it partway done -- the old generator, harness and regulator are out, most of the new mount is in, the new harness is routed but so far only connected to the coil. This job has been more fun because I can't take off the engine cover (blocked by the frame for the loader), so I'm having to reach through and under and over . . .there is one seriously ------ off black widow living in the radiator shroud . . .

Do I need a new solenoid?

I have the wire-loop ammeter. If I have this right, I just need to connect the ends the other way around to get it to show charge/discharge properly.

 

[soaked]

Sorry about the loader being in the way...
Your 6 volt solenoid will work just fine on 12 volts.
This alignment/direction of alternator and battery (labeled sol for solenoid) wire shows charging. (Dont have the white coil wire, or the short blue pictured.)

When you get it started, hope the fan doesn't air mail you a black widow present...

 

[markdtn]

Sorry about the loader being in the way...
Your 6 volt solenoid will work just fine on 12 volts.
This alignment/direction of alternator and battery (labeled sol for solenoid) wire shows charging. (Dont have the white coil wire, or the short blue pictured.)
View attachment 164846

When you get it started, hope the fan doesn't air mail you a black widow present...

Wherever this photo came from perhaps it is an intermediate stage. But if this is on a running tractor I would be very leery of the bare bolt in the "alt" wire connection. If that bounces against metal there will be a big spark and bad things might happen. Needs wrapped or eliminated. Also the ignition switch wire is missing insulation in at least 1 place and is corroded green, probably time for a new switch. Actual Indak USA made switches are still available if you look (Allis Chalmers p/n 225310) that fit the hole.

 

[soaked]

Thank you for your concern.
I have no plans to put the tractor in service, and likely won't change the switch or bolt, or anything else. I enjoy it as it sits.

 

[used red MN]

Thank you for your concern.
I have no plans to put the tractor in service, and likely won't change the switch or bolt, or anything else. I enjoy it as it sits.

You must have some spare “canned smoke” to recharge the system after a short!

 

[soaked]

Yep, keep it with the blinker grease.

Those mouse ate up switch wires are about 3/4" from steel, so no worries.

It gets started up every few months or so. Got it for free. 8n-C, late 51. Has a Howard gear, and came with the tiller. Sits 51" wide. Rear end, and axles were cut and narrowed, for use rototilling between rows of flowers.
Have experimented with coils/resistors, put a 10 amp panel meter in the coil circuit, just enjoy tinkering/learning.

 

[markdtn]

Yep, keep it with the blinker grease.

Those mouse ate up switch wires are about 3/4" from steel, so no worries.

It gets started up every few months or so. Got it for free. 8n-C, late 51. Has a Howard gear, and came with the tiller. Sits 51" wide. Rear end, and axles were cut and narrowed, for use rototilling between rows of flowers.
Have experimented with coils/resistors, put a 10 amp panel meter in the coil circuit, just enjoy tinkering/learning.

Interesting setup. Do you have a picture of the rear?

 

[soaked]

Not wanting to infringe on this thread, so will start a new post.

 

[1 Acre Warrior]

Okay, got it all wired, ready to buy a battery.

Which battery should I get?

 

[ChrisFromCLE]

I have no personal experience - my 8N is still 6 volt. For 12V, ChatGBT recommends a group 35 battery:

Check out this chat

Here's a chat someone thought you'd want to see.

chatgpt.com

It did recommend the right battery for my Farmall Cub so this might work. As you have found out, there is a wealth of experience here and someone will surely confirm.

Chris from CLE

 

[markdtn]

I have a Group 26 battery on my 8N with a Club Car 101090801 hold down bar. RH side has a ¼-20 bolt and LH side has a J-bolt and wing nut. The original 6V hold down does not fit any 12V battery.

 

[1 Acre Warrior]

The standard batteries were all in the $150+ price range. I went to Wally World and picked up a U1 (garden tractor) battery for $35, figuring it will work or it won't. Works GREAT -- but the tractor doesn't start (even on ether). I checked the wiring, it's all as should be, and I'm getting 12V at the coil -- I guess that 3.3 Ohm resistor isn't supposed to drop much voltage.

The points are seriously eroded, so it's time to put in the new set and condenser that have been sitting here, and I'll pick up a spark tester. I may end up just getting a new 12V coil.

 

[Jim.ME]

The standard batteries were all in the $150+ price range. I went to Wally World and picked up a U1 (garden tractor) battery for $35, figuring it will work or it won't. Works GREAT -- but the tractor doesn't start (even on ether). I checked the wiring, it's all as should be, and I'm getting 12V at the coil -- I guess that 3.3 Ohm resistor isn't supposed to drop much voltage.

The points are seriously eroded, so it's time to put in the new set and condenser that have been sitting here, and I'll pick up a spark tester. I may end up just getting a new 12V coil.

Until there is an actual current draw (more than a test light or voltmeter) it will show the same voltage (or very close) on both sides of the resistor.

You know the points are eroded? You should have changed them before this.

Put the test light probe on the distributor's terminal that has the wire going to the distributor. When you crank the engine with the starter the light should flash off and on as the engine is being cranked, if the points are working.

 

[1 Acre Warrior]

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!

I reversed the leads on the coil, and the engine is now trying to fire (on old gas). That means everything is working as it should. Thanks for all of the help, guys!

 

[1 Acre Warrior]

You know the points are eroded? You should have changed them before this.

Access issue -- the loader frame makes it hard to get in there. Fortunately, it's the side distributor, so it just means evicting the black widow and worming around in there with the smallest tools I have.

 

[Jim.ME]

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!

I reversed the leads on the coil, and the engine is now trying to fire (on old gas). That means everything is working as it should. Thanks for all of the help, guys!

On a negative ground system the postive coil terminal should have the wire from the switch. Negative terminal of the coil gets the wire to the distributor.

Access issue -- the loader frame makes it hard to get in there. Fortunately, it's the side distributor, so it just means evicting the black widow and worming around in there with the smallest tools I have.

Sorry, not a reason not to do it when you knew they were bad, I doubt the access has improved from before. JMHO from years as a mechanic.

 

[1 Acre Warrior]

On a negative ground system the postive coil terminal should have the wire from the switch. Negative terminal of the coil gets the wire to the distributor.

Sorry, not a reason not to do it when you knew they were bad, I doubt the access has improved from before. JMHO from years as a mechanic.

Feel free to come by and do this for me.

 

[Jim.ME]

Feel free to come by and do this for me.

Generally, when trying to do such as a tune-up on a tractor with a loader I find it helps to raise the loader arms and block them (or set the loader up on something higher) to keep them from dropping. That often will get you in closer and reduce the framing you have to reach around.