Hydraulic cylinder scratch and rust spots.

[Mtjohnso]

I have a front end loader that came on a 1957 IH350U. The last 12 inches of the cylinder rod has scratches and pitting and rust spots
Solutions I have read about are to
Use JB Weld to fill the scratches and Pits
Rechrome the rod
Replace the rod
Buy all new cylinder
The rod 2.3745 inch diameter
42 inches long.
Hope to find an economical solution is a one time solution.
What you done successfully?

 

[used red MN]

Use JB Weld to fill the scratches and Pits

I have done this on the Horndraulic trip loader on my Farmall M with relative success. It is a limited use machine 1 or 2 partial days of use 3 or 4 times a year. In the last year it hasn’t even gotten 1 or 2 days use. It’s 500 miles away and other things in life were a priority.

 

[Ray,IN]

Electroplating is not a solution to fill-in pits and scratches. It covers every surface with the same thickness; IOW a surface must be completely smooth if the plating is to be smooth.

 

[Tx Jim]

If I was in your situation I would check on price of a new cylinder. Granted cylinder style will affect price. I had rod seal fail on a 2.5X10 tie bolt type cylinder. I checked with 3 different hyd repair businesses for cost of cylinder repair. I was quoted $180, $200 & $215 for repair. I purchased a new cylinder delivered to my doorstep for $149.

 

[Jim.ME]

Edit: Sorry replied in wrong thread.

 

[used red MN]

The rod 2.3745 inch diameter
42 inches long.

I’m guessing these are purpose built one way cylinders is that correct? A photo of them would be helpful. Generic replacement cylinder in a 2 1/2” diameter are more readily available than fractional size such as 2 3/8”. Using 2 1/2” would slow your cycle time but increase the lifting ability.

 

[Jim.ME]

The two lift cylinders should match dimensions or twisting of the loader can occur. As example a 2-1/2 inch cylinder will develop more force at the same pressure than a 2-3/8 inch cylinder. You could check with a shop to see if they can make a new rod from bulk rod stock and the price. A good machine shop should be able to do that, not just a hydraulic shop.

 

[Ray,IN]

The two lift cylinders should match dimensions or twisting of the loader can occur. As example a 2-1/2 inch cylinder will develop more force at the same pressure than a 2-3/8 inch cylinder. You could check with a shop to see if they can make a new rod from bulk rod stock and the price. A good machine shop should be able to do that, not just a hydraulic shop.

I agree on all comments, our local hyd shop has a full machine shop, and can make an entire cylinder when necessary. It's not just a over the counter hose shop. Just by looking around, I'd guess they have around $10 million tied up in inventory and machinery. You need it, they have it.

 

[Texasmark]

If I was in your situation I would check on price of a new cylinder. Granted cylinder style will affect price. I had rod seal fail on a 2.5X10 tie bolt type cylinder. I checked with 3 different hyd repair businesses for cost of cylinder repair. I was quoted $180, $200 & $215 for repair. I purchased a new cylinder delivered to my doorstep for $149.

www.surpluscenter.com 1-800-488-3407 is where I get mine. Big selection, great prices.

 

[moresmoke]

Depending on how bad the pitting is, the amount of use the cylinder gets and the type of seal, sometimes you can polish the rod with fine emery cloth enough to salvage it. So long as the sharp edges are taken off the pits and scratches, sometimes you can get the seal to last quit a while for occasional use.

 

[farmersamm]

If you own a lathe, and can weld, this is an alternative.

Standard Chrome Plated Rods - Magister Hydraulics

Standard Chrome Plated Rods are essential components in various industrial applications, offering exceptional strength, durability, and resistance to wear and corrosion. Made in Europe High Quality Materials Cost Efficient Hi-Tech Manufacture Exceptional Quality Control Standard lengths: 12, 18...

www.magisterhyd.com

The clevis might be salvageable if you turn it, or part it, off the shaft, and bore out the locator pin they used to weld it on. Then you simply have to thread your new shaft, and turn a locator button on the other end. This all assumes the piston is still in good shape..............and even that can be fabricated.

 

[cumminstinkerer]

there is a special welding rod you use with an oxycetalene rig, if memory serves me it is called certanium, you have to clean the big pits out really well, then use their special flux, and essentially solder this stuff in, once done file then sand/polish down. It works well and is hard enough to not wear like solder, on the small rust just sand down smooth the seals will take up the slack unless they are very deep then you need to solder them as well. I have fixed several dings and pits with the stuff with 99% success rate, cleanliness on the parent metal is a must and preheating and slow cooling.

 

[SkipperII]

there is a special welding rod you use with an oxycetalene rig, if memory serves me it is called certanium, you have to clean the big pits out really well, then use their special flux, and essentially solder this stuff in, once done file then sand/polish down. It works well and is hard enough to not wear like solder, on the small rust just sand down smooth the seals will take up the slack unless they are very deep then you need to solder them as well. I have fixed several dings and pits with the stuff with 99% success rate, cleanliness on the parent metal is a must and preheating and slow cooling.

Certanium is a welding product line, and they do have a number of very effective specialty welding, and build up products.

 

[cumminstinkerer]

thanks @SkipperII I wasn't sure, we had it at the Case Dealer where I worked but I havent been there since 08, so hard remember all the names and numbers of some of that specialty stuff.

 

[farmersamm]

https://exdron.co.il/Exdron-Pdf/Certanium_34C_P14662_datasheet.pdf

Looks like interesting stuff, dunno where you'd buy it though

 

[farmersamm]

Don't believe I'd do any actual 'WELDING' on a cylinder rod. The temps are too high for the chrome plating. Sure........ya gotta attach an eye, but that's at the very end of the rod, not anywhere in the seal surface. And, chances are, you'd bend that rod like a banana.

The solder product might be safe.........(shrug)

 

[cumminstinkerer]

Used it a lot on backhoe and excavator cylinders when it was just a ding, never had any issues, I've welded ends on the rods and the barrels before, just get the thing fully extended and you're good, as for banana bending you need to preheat anyway ideally post heat then wrap it and let it cool slowly

 

[farmersamm]

Used it a lot on backhoe and excavator cylinders when it was just a ding, never had any issues, I've welded ends on the rods and the barrels before, just get the thing fully extended and you're good, as for banana bending you need to preheat anyway ideally post heat then wrap it and let it cool slowly

"rods, and the barrels".............absolutely. I'd just be afraid to weld anywhere else. Even welded cylinders only have welding at the base of the cylinder, and the rod eye.

You often see a welded port, but it's outside the area of the cylinder that has to actually be round.