Steel building questions.

I have a steel building but smaller. The x bracing is 1/2" steel rods with quite a bit of 1/2"-13 threads on each end for adjustment.
I am sure cable could easily be as strong or stronger but there could be a chance of failure at the ends if not connected properly.
 
I have a steel building but smaller. The x bracing is 1/2" steel rods with quite a bit of 1/2"-13 threads on each end for adjustment.
I am sure cable could easily be as strong or stronger but there could be a chance of failure at the ends if not connected properly.
Thanks. I'm surprised this isn't rod. every building I see here is rod not cable.
 
I'm starting to build a 52 by 53 red iron steel frame shop for my welding and repair shop. I know we have a lot of experience on this forum. Some background on this is. I bought a used building, and it included the original set of blueprints. The plans call for a X 1/4 brace in the roof. The plans call it a .... WC4A 1/4 inch brace. I can't find anything online that tells me exactly what that is. Ai just explains its bracing a quarter of the way thru the building. Would anybody have any steel erection experience that could tell me exactly what I need? Cable? Doesn't seem like that would work in a push/ pull situation. 1/4 round with threads on the end? That seems right to me but need confirmation. The building didn't come with the bracing either.

Thanks. I'm surprised this isn't rod. every building I see here is rod not cable.
Might be an older design that made use of materials that were surplus or inexpensive at that time. There should be dates on the blue prints.
 
52 x 53 there will be a lot of waste metal ,time cutting .
Tthis building is 20 years old but has never been erected. Was a 52 wide by 100 long. Pre fabbed , everything is welded. I'm only putting up 53 feet because of the permit. The roof and wall purlins are just going to overlap the extra and that will get us to the current snow and wind load per the engineer and county requirement. The county and engineer have already approved the modifications and stamped it all. But yes there will be that waste. Just gotta deal with it.
 
Tthis building is 20 years old but has never been erected. Was a 52 wide by 100 long. Pre fabbed , everything is welded. I'm only putting up 53 feet because of the permit. The roof and wall purlins are just going to overlap the extra and that will get us to the current snow and wind load per the engineer and county requirement. The county and engineer have already approved the modifications and stamped it all. But yes there will be that waste. Just gotta deal with it.

"Was a 52 wide by 100 long. Pre fabbed"
This, is exactly why there was cross tie specified. While it may not be needed on a near-square building, might as well follow the plan, and not get a sign off question. The rest,,, of the story. (y)
 
If it’s a screw down roof you’re going to be cussing running all those drill screws through those double purlins with the long overlaps! Same with the wall girts.
I faced that too. I got a pair of Makita good batt drill and driver. Even though those screws are 'self tapping' they really don't. So, I pre-drilled a LOT of holes and then it was easy to drive the screw with the Makita driver tool. Can set the torque so it doesn't squish the bushing too.
 
Thanks. I'm surprised this isn't rod. every building I see here is rod not cable.
My 10-year-old 30" by 40" has three "bays" - or sections of wall between the various uprights. Plan required 1/4-inch cable, supplied by the manufacturer - for two X braces. One in the middle and the other on one end section. back wall only. The front is taken up by two roll up and two walk doors.

In any case, I suspect the cable rather than rod is or was simply a matter of shipping. A lot easier to add a roll of 1/4 inch cable to the hardware box than whatever number of rods in whatever length. Also, it seems it would be easier to add the cable after rough assembly, than to make sure you get threaded rod through the proper hoe during assembly.
 
While this shows the wall x bracing, I see several vids after watching it that may be more helpful. I’ll let you chase after the most promising for your situation.

 
That is a double edged sword with the inspectors office.

If you put in some acceptable looking and properly sized cross bracing (which others with experience seem to think is a standard building practice) it probably will get approved and be proper?

If you ask a lot of pointed questions about ‘I don’t know what I need but I want to try to use this,’ it might get denied until you get an additional engineering design for $$$?

Paul
 
That is a double edged sword with the inspectors office.

If you put in some acceptable looking and properly sized cross bracing (which others with experience seem to think is a standard building practice) it probably will get approved and be proper?

If you ask a lot of pointed questions about ‘I don’t know what I need but I want to try to use this,’ it might get denied until you get an additional engineering design for $$$?

Paul
It sure is! When I considered modifying my cross bracing from two X's to a single diagonal on each end and full X in the middle bay, the building department (Merced County in California) said - sure thing! As long as you get a stamped engineer's letter approving the modification. So my building has two side-by-side cable X braces!

Good luck.
 
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