At my wits 2Nd

[Jagalonia]

So I've got this ford 2N, 6v system, front mount distributor. I was using it to dig holes, then it started to cut after about 2-5 minutes run time. No sputter, just cut. Smelled like an electrical problem, as I had already replaced the carb, fuel line, and sediment filter, so likely the distributor, so I got the rebuild kit, figured I'd throw in some new spark plugs while I was in there. Rebuilt distributor, installed the plugs, then one of the ignition cables got caught in the belt and got a little shredded. Some of the wiring was questionable when I got it, so I figured it was no real loss, replaced the cables.

Now I have no spark. Replaced the coil, found OEM distributor rebuild kit and cap from my local New Holland dealership. I have confirmed there's power to the coil, but its not going through to the plugs. I feel like I've run out of things to check, and I'd really like to get this fence in before the ground freezes.

Any advice would be appreciated, my knowledge of tractors when I started doing all this was engine go brrr wheels turn, so things may need to be explained like I'm 5.

 

[old]

So I've got this ford 2N, 6v system, front mount distributor. I was using it to dig holes, then it started to cut after about 2-5 minutes run time. No sputter, just cut. Smelled like an electrical problem, as I had already replaced the carb, fuel line, and sediment filter, so likely the distributor, so I got the rebuild kit, figured I'd throw in some new spark plugs while I was in there. Rebuilt distributor, installed the plugs, then one of the ignition cables got caught in the belt and got a little shredded. Some of the wiring was questionable when I got it, so I figured it was no real loss, replaced the cables.

Now I have no spark. Replaced the coil, found OEM distributor rebuild kit and cap from my local New Holland dealership. I have confirmed there's power to the coil, but its not going through to the plugs. I feel like I've run out of things to check, and I'd really like to get this fence in before the ground freezes.

Any advice would be appreciated, my knowledge of tractors when I started doing all this was engine go brrr wheels turn, so things may need to be explained like I'm 5.

#1 did you set the points to 0.015??? Not 0.025!!
#2 make sure you don't have anything shorted out in the distributor.
#3 try a hot wire from the ignition side of the battery to the coil and see if you have spark

 

[HarryVanderpool]

With a volt-ohm meter, you can test the operation of the dist on the bench.
If the points are actually functioning, the next place to look is at the connection between the coil and dist. Sometimes one needs to SLIGHTLY extend the tang and or pigtail on the coil to reach.

 

[DanielW]

One problem with a lot of replacement caps for those front mount N dizzies is the gasket between cap and body. It needs to sit 'on end' down in the groove of the cap such that the cap sits right flush to the dizzy body. If the gasket sits between the body and cap (like they want to do out of the box, before you fight to squish it down in the groove) the gasket can space the cap a little too far off the body. Because they don't have a spring-loaded contact touching the top of the rotor, being held off just a smidge can cause it to not contact.

 

[Jagalonia]

#1 did you set the points to 0.015??? Not 0.025!!
#2 make sure you don't have anything shorted out in the distributor.
#3 try a hot wire from the ignition side of the battery to the coil and see if you have spark

Points are at .015±.001, plugs are at .025±.002. I do QC in a machine shop as my day job so I'm 100% Confident in those numbers.

I've rebuilt the distributor twice, how do I check for shorts?

Should the coil spark on its own, or do I have to touch it to a ground to spark?

 

[Jagalonia]

With a volt-ohm meter, you can test the operation of the dist on the bench.
If the points are actually functioning, the next place to look is at the connection between the coil and dist. Sometimes one needs to SLIGHTLY extend the tang and or pigtail on the coil to reach.

Coil confidently touches the screw in the distributor, but the screw looks pretty worn down. If anyone has specs on that specific screw I can find or machine a replacement if that ends up being the problem.

 

[Jagalonia]

One problem with a lot of replacement caps for those front mount N dizzies is the gasket between cap and body. It needs to sit 'on end' down in the groove of the cap such that the cap sits right flush to the dizzy body. If the gasket sits between the body and cap (like they want to do out of the box, before you fight to squish it down in the groove) the gasket can space the cap a little too far off the body. Because they don't have a spring-loaded contact touching the top of the rotor, being held off just a smidge can cause it to not contact.

New cap fits shockingly like a glove, I can't see in it perfectly, but I'm pretty confident the contact point in the cap is touching the rotor piece.

 

[Non-farmer]

I've rebuilt the distributor twice, how do I check for shorts?

Front mount distributor troubleshooting:

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.c...ing-protocol-electrical.1236915/#post-7375051

RIP Bruce.

PS: click the "75 tips" link at the bottom of his post too.

 

[old]

Points are at .015±.001, plugs are at .025±.002. I do QC in a machine shop as my day job so I'm 100% Confident in those numbers.

I've rebuilt the distributor twice, how do I check for shorts?

Should the coil spark on its own, or do I have to touch it to a ground to spark?

Most shorts in the front mount are caused by the condenser wire shorting to the body. But either way most are found by eye site not test

 

[soaked]

Hi Jagalonia,
The concave screw has a tiny hole - down in the center, to catch the end of the coil's pigtail wire. When QC is not so good, the wire end can be in the hole, but at the same time, pigtail spirals also ground against the points plate hold down clip. Causes no spark.

Here's a screen shot with info I posted here a while back.

If yours is at 12, suggest twist/bend to 6, so clears the clip.

 

[Jim L WA]

Lots of good advice so far, but you can see a lot be putting a volt meter or test light on the top of the coil with key on, turn engine over and watch for fluctuations on the meter or light. If so then there are no shorts and the points are working. Then you can suspect a bad condenser or even a bad coil.

 

[Jagalonia]

Did some continuity checks. Top thread of the coil assembly has continuity to the points, but not to the contact point on the cap. Cap looks clean because it's new, still shocked I found a OEM part for an 80 year old tractor.

 

[soaked]

If you were holding the cap tight to the coil, meter needs to be at a setting like 20k in order to get a reading. Secondary windings spec is 5800ohms minimum.

If going through a spark plug terminal, the rotor to cap contact spec is .006" - .008" so the rotor isn't actually touching.

 

[KCM]

Check the resistor on the dash. Remove and clean the terminals on the resistor, the attachment nuts, and wires attached to it. The resistor terminals can get corroded. May show a voltage at the coil but may not be transferring the amps. Running a wire directly from the battery to the terminal on the coil temporarily as suggested would narrow down the problem to the distributor or wiring going to the coil.

 

[Jagalonia]

Check the resistor on the dash. Remove and clean the terminals on the resistor, the attachment nuts, and wires attached to it. The resistor terminals can get corroded. May show a voltage at the coil but may not be transferring the amps. Running a wire directly from the battery to the terminal on the coil temporarily as suggested would narrow down the problem to the distributor or wiring going to the coil.

I need to be careful here because it's positive ground so everything is weird, do I connect it to the positive, or negative on the battery?

Also, do I need a specific gauge of wire, or will a piece of 120v extension cord do it?

 

[Non-farmer]

do I connect it to the positive, or negative on the battery?

The negative.

will a piece of 120v extension cord do it?

Yes.

 

[Jim L WA]

Here is a thought. After re-reading your original post you said it just quit running. Now you have no spark. What is the condition of the battery? Was the charging system working? How many volts do you have at the battery?

 

[Jagalonia]

The negative.


Yes.

coil does not spark when hooked directly to the battery. and touching the frame of the tractor.

 

[Jagalonia]

Here is a thought. After re-reading your original post you said it just quit running. Now you have no spark. What is the condition of the battery? Was the charging system working? How many volts do you have at the battery?

I double check pretty much every time I go back to the battery. 6v at the battery.

 

[Non-farmer]

6v at the battery

OK, let's be very specific here. A 6 volt battery showing only 6.0 volts is a seriously undercharged battery, possibly because it has gone bad.

What is the exact voltage your meter tells you with one lead on each of the battery posts? Notice that a fully charged 6 volt battery should show 6.37 volts.