Farmall H Generator Wiring Bypassed??

[RTR]

Hey guys, I just picked this H up and want to get it tuned up for a hayride we are having at the farm this Saturday.

#1) it’s having problems turning over and starting. Battery cables are junk and I will get new ones. Starter seems to be dragging and I pulled that off in hopes to get it rebuilt this week )could be just low voltage though??)

#2) it appears To have original generator so I’m sure it is still 6 volt . It has a 12 volt battery that is testing bad so I will get a 6 volt battery. I will also need a 6 volt coil too I’m sure

#3) the exhaust manifold looks to be an original all fuel manifold with the flapper inside ; but it has a big hole rusted out in it right in the center square part - will this need immediate repair in order to run right or can I wait to swap it until I’m able to pull one off a parts tractor I already own 3 hours from me? You can see exhaust coming out of it

#4) I noticed this wiring has been tied together and some wires disconnected from the voltage regulator. Why was this done and what do I need to do ? I just want this tractor to start easy, run right, and be reliable .

5) I’ve already had the carb professionally rebuilt and it is good . I rebuilt and cleaned the fuel bowl and it still leaks haha

6) I have new plugs, points , condenser and rotor change out too

I’ve got 4 days! Help!

 

[Mrfred54]

Looks like generator and regulator are unhooked. Probably because they don’t work, so owner installed 12 volt battery and just hooked a charger to it when it needed a charge to use the tractor. Coil should be good with six volt hooked to it, doesn’t need 12 volt to work. Have to get the generator checked and would get a new regulator. 3 or 4 post regulator. Will have B post, battery. Gen, post from generator A terminal. F post from field terminal of generator and if a fourth post, L would be load, which is not required unless you wish to hook light switch to it. You have a cut out regulator on the generator now but will have to find a place to mount the new regulator . Will be cheaper just to install 12 volt battery and one wire alternator and save a lot of headache

 

[Absent Minded Farmer]

Hey guys, I just picked this H up and want to get it tuned up for a hayride we are having at the farm this Saturday.

Maybe find something reliable for that trek?

Mike

 

[560Dennis]

Suggest this too, check brakes and calibration of the brake pedals. Very important hauling all that weight.
Tire pressure .

 

[the tractior vet]

Looks like generator and regulator are unhooked. Probably because they don’t work, so owner installed 12 volt battery and just hooked a charger to it when it needed a charge to use the tractor. Coil should be good with six volt hooked to it, doesn’t need 12 volt to work. Have to get the generator checked and would get a new regulator. 3 or 4 post regulator. Will have B post, battery. Gen, post from generator A terminal. F post from field terminal of generator and if a fourth post, L would be load, which is not required unless you wish to hook light switch to it. You have a cut out regulator on the generator now but will have to find a place to mount the new regulator . Will be cheaper just to install 12 volt battery and one wire alternator and save a lot of headache

Good luck finding a NEW Regulator that actually works today ..

 

[the tractior vet]

Hey guys, I just picked this H up and want to get it tuned up for a hayride we are having at the farm this Saturday.

#1) it’s having problems turning over and starting. Battery cables are junk and I will get new ones. Starter seems to be dragging and I pulled that off in hopes to get it rebuilt this week )could be just low voltage though??)

#2) it appears To have original generator so I’m sure it is still 6 volt . It has a 12 volt battery that is testing bad so I will get a 6 volt battery. I will also need a 6 volt coil too I’m sure

#3) the exhaust manifold looks to be an original all fuel manifold with the flapper inside ; but it has a big hole rusted out in it right in the center square part - will this need immediate repair in order to run right or can I wait to swap it until I’m able to pull one off a parts tractor I already own 3 hours from me? You can see exhaust coming out of it

#4) I noticed this wiring has been tied together and some wires disconnected from the voltage regulator. Why was this done and what do I need to do ? I just want this tractor to start easy, run right, and be reliable .

5) I’ve already had the carb professionally rebuilt and it is good . I rebuilt and cleaned the fuel bowl and it still leaks haha

6) I have new plugs, points , condenser and rotor change out too

I’ve got 4 days! Help!

View attachment 168011View attachment 168012

Hey guys, I just picked this H up and want to get it tuned up for a hayride we are having at the farm this Saturday.

#1) it’s having problems turning over and starting. Battery cables are junk and I will get new ones. Starter seems to be dragging and I pulled that off in hopes to get it rebuilt this week )could be just low voltage though??)

#2) it appears To have original generator so I’m sure it is still 6 volt . It has a 12 volt battery that is testing bad so I will get a 6 volt battery. I will also need a 6 volt coil too I’m sure

#3) the exhaust manifold looks to be an original all fuel manifold with the flapper inside ; but it has a big hole rusted out in it right in the center square part - will this need immediate repair in order to run right or can I wait to swap it until I’m able to pull one off a parts tractor I already own 3 hours from me? You can see exhaust coming out of it

#4) I noticed this wiring has been tied together and some wires disconnected from the voltage regulator. Why was this done and what do I need to do ? I just want this tractor to start easy, run right, and be reliable .

5) I’ve already had the carb professionally rebuilt and it is good . I rebuilt and cleaned the fuel bowl and it still leaks haha

6) I have new plugs, points , condenser and rotor change out too

I’ve got 4 days! Help!

View attachment 168011View attachment 168012

 

[the tractior vet]

Just a FYI the blue wire is the hot wire for the Gen. and the yellow is the field wire . IF you have a GOOD electrical shop they can make that gen into a 12 volt Neg ground . Now as for me when i chance a 6 volt system over to 12 i use the 6 volt coil and add a ballast resistor , this way when ya first start ya get almost 12 volts to the coil for a hotter spark and then the resistor warms and cuts back to 6-8 volts . It is just one of my things. Also for the lights if ya have the org lights ya can get a 12 volt bulb that looks and fit like the org 6 volt bulb . Now as to the bulb number due to OLD AGE the number i do not remember as some numbers have left the chat over the eons of part numbers floating around in the old computer banks .

 

[Jim Becker]

Looks like generator and regulator are unhooked. Probably because they don’t work, so owner installed 12 volt battery and just hooked a charger to it when it needed a charge to use the tractor. Coil should be good with six volt hooked to it, doesn’t need 12 volt to work. Have to get the generator checked and would get a new regulator. 3 or 4 post regulator. Will have B post, battery. Gen, post from generator A terminal. F post from field terminal of generator and if a fourth post, L would be load, which is not required unless you wish to hook light switch to it. You have a cut out regulator on the generator now but will have to find a place to mount the new regulator . Will be cheaper just to install 12 volt battery and one wire alternator and save a lot of headache

Or maybe the battery went bad and he either couldn't find a 6-volt battery or found a 12-volt for a lot less money. So he just stuck in the 12-volt battery and disconnected the 6-volt charging system. There is a good chance the current generator and cut-out are okay and just need the connections cleaned up (including grounds!). Test components before replacing them.

 

[RTR]

Looks like generator and regulator are unhooked. Probably because they don’t work, so owner installed 12 volt battery and just hooked a charger to it when it needed a charge to use the tractor. Coil should be good with six volt hooked to it, doesn’t need 12 volt to work. Have to get the generator checked and would get a new regulator. 3 or 4 post regulator. Will have B post, battery. Gen, post from generator A terminal. F post from field terminal of generator and if a fourth post, L would be load, which is not required unless you wish to hook light switch to it. You have a cut out regulator on the generator now but will have to find a place to mount the new regulator . Will be cheaper just to install 12 volt battery and one wire alternator and save a lot of headache

Can I not just install a 12 volt battery and charge it as I need to manually? Or does it need the alternator to keep it running?

 

[RTR]

Good luck finding a NEW Regulator that actually works today ..

Brillman Company has "premium" ones but not sure if they are any good.

 

[RTR]

Maybe find something reliable for that trek?

Mike

The whole point of buying this old H is for this purpose. That is about all its good for anyways. We have a Massey 253 diesel and a Massey 4707 cab tractor.

 

[RTR]

Suggest this too, check brakes and calibration of the brake pedals. Very important hauling all that weight.
Tire pressure .

This will be on pretty flat ground but yes brakes are great!

 

[RTR]

Or maybe the battery went bad and he either couldn't find a 6-volt battery or found a 12-volt for a lot less money. So he just stuck in the 12-volt battery and disconnected the 6-volt charging system. There is a good chance the current generator and cut-out are okay and just need the connections cleaned up (including grounds!). Test components before replacing them.

thanks Jim. I was mainly asking as to why the wiring was that way. I didn't know if it meant it was "unhooked" from the system, correctly or incorrectly. I've seen several tractors done this way , but never knew why. Not sure where these old farmers figure out how to do that. There isn't a diagram or manual on Bypassing this stuff. haha.

 

[Jim Becker]

Can I not just install a 12 volt battery and charge it as I need to manually? Or does it need the alternator to keep it running?

Yes, it will run off the battery with no functioning charging system. It can run a long time if you have a very good battery. This is particularly true for daylight operation. A full set of three lights will use more power than the ignition system does. It appears that is exactly what the previous owner was doing.

One more thing, the 6-volt cut-out style charging system can charge a 12-volt battery. It will have a slow charge rate.

 

[RTR]

Yes, it will run off the battery with no functioning charging system. It can run a long time if you have a very good battery. This is particularly true for daylight operation. A full set of three lights will use more power than the ignition system does. It appears that is exactly what the previous owner was doing.

One more thing, the 6-volt cut-out style charging system can charge a 12-volt battery. It will have a slow charge rate.

good to know. This little H will get a starter rebuild, tuneup, and a carb rebuild BUT it isn't a candidate for a charging system update or rebuild unless absolutely necessary. Gotta lot of things in the fire and gotta shift my priorities as needed.

 

[RTR]

good to know. This little H will get a starter rebuild, tuneup, and a carb rebuild BUT it isn't a candidate for a charging system update or rebuild unless absolutely necessary. Gotta lot of things in the fire and gotta shift my priorities as needed.

Pulled the brush band off the starter and the brushes look new! Hit the starter on the bench with a 12v battery and it sounds great. I'll probably just reinstall the starter.

My battery was very, very low to the point of me putting a load test on it and it coming back with 11.5 volts and registering "bad". Slow charged the battery for 24 hours at 2 amps and then let it rest for 3 hours. Load tested it and it is at 12.8 volts and loading like a new battery.

Having a new 00 gauge switch-to-starter battery cable made as the old one was as limp as a spaghetti noodle and had some corrosion.

 

[Farmalldude45]

Can I not just install a 12 volt battery and charge it as I need to manually? Or does it need the alternator to keep it running?

You might consider replacing the distributor with a magneto. 2 benefits: no ignition draw on the battery when running and the tractor will continue to run if battery dies. In this situation(dead battery), you wouldn't have lights, but an escorting vehicle could handle providing illumination to get home.
BTW. I have a cub that I do exactly as you have proposed. Will correct some day, but ok for now.

 

[RTR]

You might consider replacing the distributor with a magneto. 2 benefits: no ignition draw on the battery when running and the tractor will continue to run if battery dies. In this situation(dead battery), you wouldn't have lights, but an escorting vehicle could handle providing illumination to get home.
BTW. I have a cub that I do exactly as you have proposed. Will correct some day, but ok for now.

Good idea.