JD 2630 Major Hydraulic Issues

grpaine

Member
I have what appear to be some major hyd issues and I’m hoping for some advice and direction.

As background, 4 weeks ago I found a JD 2630 for sale at a reasonable price. When I first looked at it there was a pretty good leak at the tranny filter cover as well as several less severe leaks including the bottom of the SCV. The hyd fluid looked pretty bad. The loader, steering and rock shaft worked sporadically, which I learned in another post might be caused by leaks, either external or internal, among other things. I removed the filter cover, cleaned it up and reduced the leak to a minor leak, purchased the tractor and drove it home.

Once I got it home I removed both tranny drain plugs, the tranny filter cover, drained the reservoir, cleaned everything up and added new hyd fluid. I forgot to clean the tranny screen so I removed it and there was quite a bit of junk on it, chunks of crusty stuff and white stuff that I’m told was water. It was probably about 30 - 40% clogged.

If I understand it correctly the main pump services the loader, SCV and rock shaft.

After reassembly, my new major leak was the loader control valve. I ordered an overhaul kit but it hasn’t arrived yet.

I drained the hyd fluid again since my new fluid was partially corrupted by old fluid that was in the lines, pump, etc. I also installed a pressure gauge on the pressure side of the loader control valve so I could monitor the pump pressure.

When I fired it up today after this work the pressure gauge was pegged at over 3000 psi and hyd fluid was pouring out of the tranny filter cover. I shut it down right away, put a bucket under the cover then started it again. The pressure gauge pegged again at over 3000 then dropped to a more normal 2200 (about) for a few seconds then dropped to about 50. I suspect the pump was starved for oil when the tranny pump couldn’t keep up.

I do sincerely apologize for this long post but think it is important to tell the entire story.

So my questions are:

Tranny filter cover leak – I suspect that the gasket didn’t get seated correctly, I’ll try again tomorrow morning. The gasket the dealer sells is larger in diameter than the cover and won’t stay in place when installed on the cover. The manual says to insert it into the tranny so the only way I could get it to stick up there was to use a little axle grease. Is there a secret to make this easier?

Main pump pressure:
a) is it normal for the pump to produce more than 3000 psi for a second or two or should it never exceed about 2200 - 2300?
b) the pump has a petcock for stopping the flow. Can I shut the petcock for long periods of time (10 minutes, an hour, a week) while I work on the tranny filter cover leak issue?
c) I have not cleaned the main pump filter (pump stroke control valve) yet. Could that be an issue? Is it located under the shutoff petcock? The tech manual doesn’t show a petcock. (I have the 2.40 CI pump).
d) could the pressure control valve (located behind the brake & reverser housings) have anything to do with the problem?

As a side note; based on my previous post, I think everything is plumbed correctly.

I’d really appreciate your thoughts / comments / advice and thanks in advance,
Greg
 
You have my condolances for buying a 2630 with known hydraulic issues, a bad move on your part,,now putting that aside, I will give you some ideas on what you have going on,,(I get a couple of these a month),,Your brakes are most likely all 'peeled' off, and down to the metal, this is what was pluging up the screen, the metal fillings have been stiring around in the system long enough to eat up the loader valve(causeing the leak) and the SCV (causeing that leak), and has, most likely eat up the trans. pump and fouled up the stroke valve,,If your a drinker, now is when the bottle should come out... If it was in my shop I would pull the final drives and see what has happened there, then set the trans. off of the clutch houseing and take a look at the trans pump and pipes, if the trans case is full of fines take the top shaft out so you can get down into it and scrape and power wash it out real good, pull the filter relief valve out to flush and clean , pull the main pump to disassemle and check and clean, then rebuild it,,I know this sounds like a lot of work because it is,,and sorry to say this is what you will need to do.....
 
If the trans pump relief valve is jammed. Over-pressure will blow the gasket out from under the trans filter cover.
If I had to guess. Either extensive loader work using the brakes heavily and often. And/or somebody pouring the wrong non wet clutch oil into the trans. Were the initial steps to destruction.
I wish you had asked here before purchasing. We try here to tell people to pull the trans filter and screen before purchasing. A clogged or 100% clean filter means trouble.
 
grpaine[/quote]he pressure gauge pegged again at over 3000 then dropped to a more normal 2200 (about) for a few seconds then dropped to about 50.

At no point with a properly operating stroke control valve should stand-by pressure exceed set psi which should be 2250-2350 psi.

[/quote] could the pressure control valve (located behind the brake & reverser housings) have anything to do with the problem?

NO IIRC pressure control valve shuts off when psi gets below 1700 psi to give steering priority psi

Loader valve needs to be checked to see if it's leaking return oil to sump when not in use. Disconnect return hose with engine running/valve levers in neutral to determine if oil flows out.

Good luck and get some Grecian Formula for you hair if you don't end up pulling it all out!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Wondering about the first line of your reply on condolences on buying a 2630 with known hydraulic issues, just wondering if that is common?

I have had my 2630 for about a year and everything with the hydraulics worked fine until this spring when it started to act a little sporadic. Don't know when or if the fluid has been changed and it is a little milky looking. So, I am going to change the fluid and I am wondering if there are any things I should look for when I do it. Also, how do I make sure all the fluid is out of the entire system before I start filling it again.

Any hints, suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks.

Kevin
 
(quoted from post at 22:13:53 04/26/10) Wondering about the first line of your reply on condolences on buying a 2630 with known hydraulic issues, just wondering if that is common?Thanks.

Kevin

I think what Tim S meant is that any anticipated purchase of any model tractor with prior hyd problems especially closed-center hyd's the purchaser is looking at a money pit and headaches.

2630's can have the supply tubes in tranny that can crack/leak that several other models with ind. pto or a hyd Hi-Lo also have these tubes are more prone for hyd problems than a plain Jane model with only 2 stage clutch and no hyd hi-lo.
 
Wondering about the first line of your reply on condolences on buying a 2630 with known hydraulic issues, just wondering if that is common?

I have had my 2630 for about a year and everything with the hydraulics worked fine until this spring when it started to act a little sporadic. Don't know when or if the fluid has been changed and it is a little milky looking. So, I am going to change the fluid and I am wondering if there are any things I should look for when I do it. Also, how do I make sure all the fluid is out of the entire system before I start filling it again.

Any hints, suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks.

Kevin
Howdy Kevin!

Well, same thing with mine, only my year ago was 15 years after yours! Problem worsened and blew a seal on the left loader hydraulic ram. Rebuilt that, drained all the fluid (milky through and through).

I protect my loader valve with a tarp since then but a couple quarters thick sized hole seemed to be the culprit. Need to get around to rebuilding the old controller valve….in the words of Pa Kettle: “one of these days…”
 
Tranny filter cover leak – I suspect that the gasket didn’t get seated correctly, I’ll try again tomorrow morning. The gasket the dealer sells is larger in diameter than the cover and won’t stay in place when installed on the cover. The manual says to insert it into the tranny so the only way I could get it to stick up there was to use a little axle grease. Is there a secret to make this easier?
Howdy Greg!

Thanks for asking the perfect question for what headache I’ve been trying to fix in “spare time” for a while now. Too bad the past 16 years passed with no one answering it!

My stepdad has said this canister style is about the most hated hydraulic filter setup known. Thick grease is the way to go and no one understands how or why the gasket is so big and flimsy.

I’ve settled on knowing it’s going to be a mess to deal with the ole trial and error method but hey, it’s supposed to be easy, right?

As for the screen, how did you get it off? Knock it with a hammer first, or?
 
Howdy Greg!

Thanks for asking the perfect question for what headache I’ve been trying to fix in “spare time” for a while now. Too bad the past 16 years passed with no one answering it!

My stepdad has said this canister style is about the most hated hydraulic filter setup known. Thick grease is the way to go and no one understands how or why the gasket is so big and flimsy.

I’ve settled on knowing it’s going to be a mess to deal with the ole trial and error method but hey, it’s supposed to be easy, right?

As for the screen, how did you get it off? Knock it with a hammer first, or?
This time stamp shows this is a thread from 2010. grpaine was last seen (signed in) in 2010. Kevin K was last seen in 2010 as well. You might get an answer, but I doubt either of them will respond.

I have installed a few of those transmission filter gaskets over the years and have never get had a failure. I use grease to hold the gasket up Into the transmission opening. Steady the filter housing, holding it as near center as you can while bringing it up with the bolt, not spinning the housing.
 
This time stamp shows this is a thread from 2010. grpaine was last seen (signed in) in 2010. Kevin K was last seen in 2010 as well. You might get an answer, but I doubt either of them will respond.

I have installed a few of those transmission filter gaskets over the years and have never get had a failure. I use grease to hold the gasket up Into the transmission opening. Steady the filter housing, holding it as near center as you can while bringing it up with the bolt, not spinning the housing.
Thanks Jim!

That makes total sense once it’s been said! The other method seems natural and ergo why it did not work.

What kind of grease do you use in such a way?
 
This time stamp shows this is a thread from 2010. grpaine was last seen (signed in) in 2010. Kevin K was last seen in 2010 as well. You might get an answer, but I doubt either of them will respond.

I have installed a few of those transmission filter gaskets over the years and have never get had a failure. I use grease to hold the gasket up Into the transmission opening. Steady the filter housing, holding it as near center as you can while bringing it up with the bolt, not spinning the housing.
I let my stepdad know your tip, he said “Where was that knowledge 30 years ago? If my uncle was here today I’d be telling him about this!”

Just thought I’d share the influence you have with knowledge sharing.
 
several years ago I bought a nice looking 302 industrial that belonged to a contractor. The tractor has an articulated 3 pt hitch [tilt hyd top link] control valve was bad so they took it off and just hooked the supply to the return line no hydraulics so they turn up the pump still no hyd so they sell it cheap when I get it home no antifreeze cracked radiator get that fixed buy new control valve put it on hyd pressure so high it crackes the new valve put gauge on it almost 5000 lbs pressure turn down pump replace valve again it all works fine would have been nice if I had found the pump messed with before I put valve on oh well we all seem to only learn things the hard way
 
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