camshaft JD B

Your posts are a bit confusing to me. You say you have "checked" all the timing. Are your rocker arm clearances correct? That can affect the valve opening. Missing marks on the flywheel? Post some pictures of the flywheel, in detail, of all markings you can find on it and the crankshaft end. Are you sure it has the correct flywheel. You should find a cast-in part number, may be on the inner side. Not trying to be critical here but you're new to these things and we all have to go through a learning curve. So I have to question your checking. Do you have any sort of manual? I get by fine with the I&T. I think it's unlikely the camshaft has been changed but it would have a part number on it. Trouble is you can't see it. Please don't take offense at my comments, I'm trying to help.
I can take pics of the markings I have. They don't seem to match up with anything my manual says. I have a copy of the factory manual. The counterweight is in correct position on the flywheel it is 180 from the clutch weight that has marks on end of crank. The end of the crank on flywheel side is messed up. My self-marked TDC does line up with the mark on the flywheel cover (according to the manual), that's about all that seems correct. The factory stamped TDC aren't in the same location on the flywheel. The LHEO marks don't match up either (two different locations). There is a mark on the 5-6 gear cover that according to the manual should be my reference mark for LHEO
 

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I can take pics of the markings I have. They don't seem to match up with anything my manual says. I have a copy of the factory manual. The counterweight is in correct position on the flywheel it is 180 from the clutch weight that has marks on end of crank. The end of the crank on flywheel side is messed up. My self-marked TDC does line up with the mark on the flywheel cover (according to the manual), that's about all that seems correct. The factory stamped TDC aren't in the same location on the flywheel. The LHEO marks don't match up either (two different locations). There is a mark on the 5-6 gear cover that according to the manual should be my reference mark for LHEO
The tdc mark on the top of the flywheel by the ring gear aligns with that mark on the transmission case as well

Are the splines on the crank messed up what’s with all the silicone?
 
The tdc mark on the top of the flywheel by the ring gear aligns with that mark on the transmission case as well

Are the splines on the crank messed up what’s with all the silicone?
some other person did that. I guess they didn't have a nut (or messed up the threads). I thought so about the TDC mark but it doesn't. That got me thinking the flywheel is of. But the weight position and the clutch weight position are at 3 o'clock when the piston is at actual TDC
 
some other person did that. I guess they didn't have a nut (or messed up the threads). I thought so about the TDC mark but it doesn't. That got me thinking the flywheel is of. But the weight position and the clutch weight position are at 3 o'clock when the piston is at actual TDC
Have you seen seancrombie88's post? I've been following both and keep getting mixed up but he's having a similar situation. I was assuming your flywheel is the same as my late A. From the looks of that crank end somebody really butchered it up. My guess is the crank ran loose and wore the splines. Going by the chisel marks around the crank he tried to tighten it up some which means the flywheel was taken off and put on in the wrong position. I'll look at my A today and see where the Vs on both ends are in relation to each other. That should tell you where the flywheel should be, should you attempt to relocate it. I've always gone with the raised mark on the 5-6 gear cover for TCD and LHEO.
 
Have you seen seancrombie88's post? I've been following both and keep getting mixed up but he's having a similar situation. I was assuming your flywheel is the same as my late A. From the looks of that crank end somebody really butchered it up. My guess is the crank ran loose and wore the splines. Going by the chisel marks around the crank he tried to tighten it up some which means the flywheel was taken off and put on in the wrong position. I'll look at my A today and see where the Vs on both ends are in relation to each other. That should tell you where the flywheel should be, should you attempt to relocate it. I've always gone with the raised mark on the 5-6 gear cover for TCD and LHEO.
View attachment 146113
The circled dot on the flywheel lug when aligned with the notch at the bottom of the window is #1 TDC.
V marks on clutch end at the same position.
So flywheel clockwise 90 deg will put the Vs to the top.
 

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View attachment 146113
The circled dot on the flywheel lug when aligned with the notch at the bottom of the window is #1 TDC.
V marks on clutch end at the same position.
So flywheel clockwise 90 deg will put the Vs to the top.
That is where my TDC is. I did the old school valve check. both closed at LH TDC. (RH intake is open slightly in this position), it closes at about 25 degrees ATDC. It seems that my RH waste spark is coming out the intake. I rotate the engine to RH TDC compression both intake valves are closed. (as they should be) LH exhaust open. I'm thinking someone reground the cam and RH intake lobe is off. There is evidence that cam or RH bearing has been tampered with. (the wire between the bolts is missing) Photos are showing my valve position in both TDC viewing from LH side. Looks like they posted sideways sorry
 

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thanks I'm aware of that. I will watch them to see if they get worse. It is only going to be a parade tractor
holy chit man ! your gonna be going down a crowded street and the flywheel flys off ! you cant watch cracks crack is cracked means junk ! that flywheel will kill people !
 
all it has to do is slide off and hit the ground and way it goes.
Not saying it’s a good thing, being this is a styled tractor if the cover is in place it’s going to make quite a bit or racket before it comes out. Now granted either way I probably wouldn’t want to me or my kids standing on the side of the street if it did.
Nutsover JD, so you think it’s the cam? Would seem pretty odd, could happen I suppose. Would be interesting to hear the back story if that’s true. Any indication that it was being set up for pulling? Back when they only farmed with these old slow turning things cam work was not very common. Have you checked the intake manifold yet for no burn through or cracks?
PS Why didn’t you place this in the JD forum?
 
While yes the cover would most likely notify a person. But so what. It’s going to be rattling there till it escapes. And a green operator will have no clue what’s going on. As I said a crack is a crack and it’s junk , to be replaced when noticed. No sense egging people on. I know I would not live with myself if such a thing happened. I had a flywheel slide off on an Lb Ihc engine when I was about 12 or 14 years old. That thing took off right across the yard a few hundred ft.
 
Not saying it’s a good thing, being this is a styled tractor if the cover is in place it’s going to make quite a bit or racket before it comes out. Now granted either way I probably wouldn’t want to me or my kids standing on the side of the street if it did.
Nutsover JD, so you think it’s the cam? Would seem pretty odd, could happen I suppose. Would be interesting to hear the back story if that’s true. Any indication that it was being set up for pulling? Back when they only farmed with these old slow turning things cam work was not very common. Have you checked the intake manifold yet for no burn through or cracks?
PS Why didn’t you place this in the JD forum?
yes i checked the manifold. did you see my post and pictures of the rocker position at compression TDC on both cyl. RH has the intake open on the waste spark the LH doesn't. that says something wrong with the cam.
 
yes i checked the manifold. did you see my post and pictures of the rocker position at compression TDC on both cyl. RH has the intake open on the waste spark the LH doesn't. that says something wrong with the cam.
Yes, I see that. Hopefully a cam change fixes it. It seems like it going to be a one of a kind oddball deal.
 
Fixingfarmer asked about the silicone on the crankshaft end. That looks like JB Weld.

Given the fact that you are convinced the cam is messed up and/or wrong, I’d stop trying to start the engine and start disassembly of the reciprocating assembly. If the splines under that mess on the flywheel are damaged, you’ll need the crank replaced too. To get the cam out, you’ll need to strip down everything in the crankcase anyway.

Did you compare the length of the pushrods to make sure they’re equal? Faulty cam follower (not sure how that’s possible though)?

Did the prior owner give any detail what was done before you bought it?
 
Fixingfarmer asked about the silicone on the crankshaft end. That looks like JB Weld.

Given the fact that you are convinced the cam is messed up and/or wrong, I’d stop trying to start the engine and start disassembly of the reciprocating assembly. If the splines under that mess on the flywheel are damaged, you’ll need the crank replaced too. To get the cam out, you’ll need to strip down everything in the crankcase anyway.

Did you compare the length of the pushrods to make sure they’re equal? Faulty cam follower (not sure how that’s possible though)?

Did the prior owner give any detail what was done before you bought it?
Had a little bit more time and thought about that and is the epoxy someones fix to hold the nut on? And is there still a crankshaft nut under that epoxy. So at the very least something came loose once.

It’s time to pull that flywheel and see how much of that rotating assembly you need.

Also I am reasonably certain that one valve would be open at one of the tdcs either one or 2 that’s normal the other tdc they will both be closed or close enough to it to appear so. If there were 4 or 6 cylinders you would have to rotate 360 degrees to the other tdc to do the other half of the valves so on one of the TDCs it should be different than the other. If you put the flywheel a quarter turn before LHEO on the compression stroke you can adjust all the valves.

I usually especially on a hand start tractor that isnt marked for tdc just make darn sure you aren’t on a lobe and adjust them each individual valve at once rotating till it opens then closes then 1 flywheel turn more. Then the next valve and so on with the plugs out it goes pretty quick. I broke a rocker arm once doing all of them at once. At least that’s what I suspect was the problem

Since the cam rotates half the speed of the crank and there’s only 2 cylinders 180 apart it’s still working through its process on one of the TDCs
 
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