New to me MF 135 - need advice on getting it running

[308guru]

I run a good brand, like Mobil Delvac or Shell Rotella, 15W/40 diesel oil in all mine year round with bigger temp swings than you have.

Mines a gasser. Continental 4cyl.

Are you running diesel oil in a gas engine?

 

[Jim.ME]

Mines a gasser. Continental 4cyl.

Are you running diesel oil in a gas engine?

I have a 245 with a Continental and use 15W/40 in it. Diesel oil is fine for older gas engines.

 

[308guru]

I was wondering what this hydraulic hose is coming out of a block just in front of the seat. It leads to a coupler at the back of the tractor near the 3pt.

 

[308guru]

Still looking for ideas on the hydraulic line and how it is actuated.

 

[Jim.ME]

It looks like it is just tied into the hydraulics for the three-point and would move a ram when the three-point is raised. Plug a 3000-psi pressure gauge into the coupler and you should see the pressure comes up as the three-point arms reach the top of their travel, sometimes the ram moves before the three-point moves.

If you really want to use it to best advantage, you are going to want to invest in one of the remote valve kits and upgrade the plumbing to separate the two. This site's store sells them.

 

[MKinON]

Still looking for ideas on the hydraulic line and how it is actuated.

I believe: It's a pressure remote, but it's only one way. It'll push out hydraulic pressure to a remote coupler. It's actuated by the position control, I think, when the draft control is either all the way back or all the way forward, I'm not sure which anymore -- or maybe it's totally the other way round, draft control activates it while the position control is back or forward. In any event, when the 3pt controls are correctly activated it will send pressure out to the quick coupler. Problem is it won't move a cylinder both ways. When you move the control back the other way, it cuts the pressure and the oil can flow back through that line into the transmission case. For example, you want to dump your towed dump trailer, you put pressure to it, then cut pressure when it's dumped and the dump body will lower to resting position.

 

[308guru]

Thanks for the info on the remote line.
I’ll have to see how it works once I get ‘er fired up.

 

[308guru]

I was looking for a kit with distributor cap/wires/plugs/points but it seems there are a number of distributors referenced. Could anyone let me know how to identify what I have/need for my Z-145. Here's a picture of what's on there currently.
Thank you!

 

[Jim.ME]

Just give the YT store a call. Tell them you have a MF 135 with a Continental Z145 engine. Tell them it has the Delco distributor with a screw held cap and the parts you want. If they don't have it as a ready kit, they can put the parts you need together. The parts can be gotten at most parts stores; the counter people know how to find them. The wires may be the "custom" type that you have to cut to length then put the distributor ends on.

 

[308guru]

Any suggestions on what to use for hydraulic fluid in the loader? I just realized I may be able to get it running only to be stuck with a loader I can’t move. I took the cap off the loader frame and didn’t see any fluid although it’s hard to tell what level it’s at.

 

[Jim.ME]

Any suggestions on what to use for hydraulic fluid in the loader? I just realized I may be able to get it running only to be stuck with a loader I can’t move. I took the cap off the loader frame and didn’t see any fluid although it’s hard to tell what level it’s at.

Look for a plug (maybe 1/4" NPT) in the side of the loader frame or the horizontal pipe on the front pump suction hose side of the loader, that should be the fill level. More pictures of the loader frame might show it.

I use a premium UTHF meeting the (John Deere J20C spec) in all mine, but I have some that need that and choose to only stock one fluid. It looks like your transmission calls for a fluid meeting the MF spec # M-1129-A (that became Permatran, then Permatran III) one of the premium UTHFs meeting the JD j20C spec should also list the MF specs on the label. That one UTHF will work in your transmission (internal Hydraulic system) and your loader.

 

[308guru]

Looks like Fram F760 and Traveller (Tractor Supply) both carry the M-1129a designation. I've got a TSC pretty close, I'll pick some of that up.

 

[308guru]

I grabbed a few pictures of the loader. I didn't see any plugs on the loader frame that would represent a fill plug / fill level. I can look again unless anyone has other thoughts.

I have no idea if it's correct or original, but what's the silver cap in the very top plug? Some sort of vent?

 

[Jim.ME]

I grabbed a few pictures of the loader. I didn't see any plugs on the loader frame that would represent a fill plug / fill level. I can look again unless anyone has other thoughts.

I have no idea if it's correct or original, but what's the silver cap in the very top plug? Some sort of vent?

View attachment 122369View attachment 122367View attachment 122368View attachment 122366

First picture here shows the drain plug for the loader reservoir.

Second and third pictures show the pump suction hose (larger, low pressure hose) hooked to the loader frame, which is used as the reservoir.

Fourth Picture is a vent plug (missing its cap) for the loader frame reservoir. Check all around the pipes at a level about halfway between the vent and drain plugs for a smaller plug, which would be used to check the fill level. If you cannot find a plug part way down the loader frame somewhere, to tell fill level, I would remove the vent plug and fill until fluid was just visible at the bottom of the pipe the plug is in. The loader should be lowered with the bucket flat on the ground when checking. It is possible there is a short dipstick attached to the vent plug. It the top pipe is open into the one it is welded to directly below the vent, make the fluid level halfway or a bit below of that lower pipe, right below the vent plug. get something for a cap but not tightly sealed to keep dirt and direct water out of the reservoir.

 

[308guru]

The two loader (round tubular) frames are connected inside. Looking down through the top fill hole you can see that.

I looked all over again but did not see any other plug that would be used as a fill level.

Jim.ME, thanks for the suggestions on filling.

 

[308guru]

I had no idea these carburetors were cast steel. That thing is heavy! I got it cleaned and run through the ultrasonic and reassembled.

The fuel strainer was also cleaned up and a new filter and gasket installed.

The power steering fluid is very low. What's the recommended fluid? ATF?

 

[308guru]

Ok, back with some updates and more questions.

Todays was the day. Everything was ready. All of the fluids topped off, battery was charged, new fuel was in the tank.

I opened the petcock on the fuel strainer and then noticed it was leaking a small amount. Not a bid deal at the moment, I wanted to keep moving. Turn the key and it turns over. Doesn't fire. Tried a number of times with choke, no choke, no throttle, some throttle. Never heard it pop once.

I pull a plug to check for spark. Nothing. The plugs look terrible, tons of carbon. The wires fit like crap on the plugs and I wonder if they are even making contact. I pull the boots back and the plug wire barely snaps onto and stays on the plug. Could easily make for intermittent contact. 3 of the the wires at the distributor seem ok, but one has a broken terminal and could easily be missing contact with the distributor.

Moving inside the distributor. Nothing looks unusual. There is some gap set, I can see the points open/close while the distributor is rotating. Cap off (obviously) I see sparks between the points contacts as I turn it over. I put the cap back on.

Onto the coil....I measured 12V at the coil primary stud with the ignition on. Primary resistance is 4.5ohms. Secondary resistance is 9.94 kohms.

Aside from the crappy wires, things seem to be checking out ok with the coil and distributor. It was much darker outside now so I pulled a plug wire off, pulled the boot back, and exposed the contact for the plug. I held that up to block and tuned it over now finding a (sometimes) spark. Maybe it's just the old junk wires and plugs? I'll be getting points/distributor/wires/plugs ordered and check those off and go from there.


Next problem:
When I turn the key to start, the starter engages and turns the engine over for a little bit. Even while I'm still holding it in start to keep cranking, it's like the starter disengages. The engine clearly is not turning over anymore, but the starter motor is still spinning. This is quite repeatable, but not consistent. Why won't the starter stay engaged? Video linked below.

 

[308guru]

Ignition parts arrived. I'll get them swapped this weekend.

A few questions, hopefully someone can chime in.

- What should the gap be for Autolite 386 plugs?
- Does the brass elbow with strainer going into the (Marvel Schebler) carb use a 45deg flare on the tube side?
- Steel or Stainless 1/4" tube for the fuel line, does it matter?
- Can I purchase a line with the flare already installed? I saw that in some guys YT video but can't locate a stick of it. That would save me the cost of buying a flare tool. (LINK)
- As an easier route, couldn't I skip the flare and just replace the elbow with an 1/8" NPT x 1/4" compression? I don't see the need for the strainer in the fitting when there's a finer mesh just upstream in the fuel tank strainer/shutoff.

Thanks!

 

[308guru]

Wowsers, not much activity here these days.

I was able to start and run the tractor with some Cosby Sauce. I was surprised at how well it ran.

I need to replace the leaking sediment bowl/shutoff and the determine what the fueling issue is. Still going to get the electrical parts replaced just do a fresh start.

 

[Ericp351]

25 tho. On the plugs. Steel core plug wires best. Stainless lines not reqd. Common brake line may be drop in for fuel Ines. Better to trap dirt in sediment bowl than carb inlet!