JD plow? Size?

You’re correct in how it functions, but if you zoom in and look closely, the release hook looks like it’s been bolted on backwards at some point (or can that rotate on the spring?). As is, it won’t flip up and lay flat on the tongue so the collar can slide over. No big deal to correct if it’s the case.
It's a compression spring and the center bolt is what the lever is bolted to. You just spin it in the spring.
 
You could probably get good money for those if the right folks knew you had them. I know somebody who parked a plow and bought something different because he couldn't find any of those blacksmith shares.
 
Wow...learning alot about this old girl! So the only numbers I can see are the beam numbers stamped(?) on them. John Deere 583 and John Deere 623. No others that I saw.

As far as the hook..is this supposed to fold up and latch on top? There are stop holes on the top of the hitch but I didn't look on the underside to see if there's some there. I just assumed I was missing some parts...didn't expect it to fold up and back.

Thanks everyone who's responded. I'm surprised at the amount of information.
 
Wow...learning alot about this old girl! So the only numbers I can see are the beam numbers stamped(?) on them. John Deere 583 and John Deere 623. No others that I saw.

As far as the hook..is this supposed to fold up and latch on top? There are stop holes on the top of the hitch but I didn't look on the underside to see if there's some there. I just assumed I was missing some parts...didn't expect it to fold up and back.

Thanks everyone who's responded. I'm surprised at the amount of information.
There are no parts missing on the hitch. Pull that little pin on the collar and slide collar back. Rotate that hitch lever to top, slide it up through tractor clevis from the bottom and lay it flat on the plow hitch. Then slide the collar back over it to secure. Then when you hit a rock the compression spring will let the lever slip out of the collar. Squirt some oil all over that spring and lever and collar pin and you will see that everything rotates and moves quite easily. We had some fields where the hitch would trip four times every round. It was a nuisance but beat the hell out of broken lays.
 
Great information! Going to have to get those two manuals. I have the typical newer style drawbar on my AR. I would imagine that this plow was meant to match up with the flat teardrop shaped hole style drawbar since it's an earlier model plow? I've been going to look for another drawbar since mine has had the bolt on dogleg extension welded onto the main drawbar. I might have to look for the teardrop type now. Until then, I have a couple of old twisted clevis's that I might have to flatten a bit to work with this plow hitch.

A lot of possibilities here. Of course 2 days after I bought this plow, I found a 44 plow that's been restored, on a local online auction. I'd really rather have a plow on rubber. Of course this plow will go for more than the 4D! But with all the information, I'm kinda liking the 4D. And I've already bought some flat iron to rebuild/replace one of the lifting levers that was broken, rewelded, and reinforced. Just another rabbit hole to go down!
 
Great information! Going to have to get those two manuals. I have the typical newer style drawbar on my AR. I would imagine that this plow was meant to match up with the flat teardrop shaped hole style drawbar since it's an earlier model plow? I've been going to look for another drawbar since mine has had the bolt on dogleg extension welded onto the main drawbar. I might have to look for the teardrop type now. Until then, I have a couple of old twisted clevis's that I might have to flatten a bit to work with this plow hitch.
Your style drawbar is correct and is intended to be used with a clevis. The original Deere clevis bolted to the drawbar like you have. A twisted clevis works fine.
 
I suggest, Scouring up both plows in the field behind the ar then make your decision as to what’s staying and what’s going . The plows will tell you what the best choice.
 
Yeah, like I really need 1 plow let alone two! Unfortunately I have farmground (rented out) and there's farmground all around me but there's no small plots around to play in. Oops, I mean plow in! But, I've also got a '49 B, so really, 2 tractors...2 plows, right!?
 
I think its older then a 4B, because on a 4B the land wheel was at least 28-32 inches high. The furrow wheel was smaller. At least it was on the 4B we had when I was about fifteen when my dad bought a 44 to replace it. john
 
Yeah, like I really need 1 plow let alone two! Unfortunately I have farmground (rented out) and there's farmground all around me but there's no small plots around to play in. Oops, I mean plow in! But, I've also got a '49 B, so really, 2 tractors...2 plows, right!?
Every tractor needs a matching plow is my motto.

I think its older then a 4B, because on a 4B the land wheel was at least 28-32 inches high. The furrow wheel was smaller. At least it was on the 4B we had when I was about fifteen when my dad bought a 44 to replace it. john
The 4B and most of the other models of the same period had multiple wheel configurations available. The beam numbers on the plow in question are those of a 4D. The 4D was made from 1938-1949.
 
So, I think I may have figured out the picture thing! As you can see, I ended up with the #44 that I was looking at on an auction. Altho this one did cost me a bit more than the #4! LOL

pt1.jpg
 
Very common to hear both plow lays and plow shares here in my neighborhood interchangeably, from way back to today.

You can often use the same bolt pattern (in the same brand/ series) on 14 to 20 inch lays, sometimes leaving a hole empty, depending what you are trying to accomplish with the plow. Smaller lay might go in the ground easier, bigger lay might cut alfalfa roots easier. And so forth.

Yours of corse are the older style that are meant to build up, not replace really.

Paul
 
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