F-20 stuck pistons.

Spent the day pulling sleeves. Got 3 out and the 4th halfway. Much harder going than I expected. The block is full of garbage that I am vacuuming out as I go.
 
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Got the last sleeve out. #4 sleeve was damaged. I'll source a replacement. The rest are good after I clean them up.
 

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You never ever Jack on the sleeve . A piece of thick metal would have prevented that. That is why I said to use a puck, but here a piece of metal would have done the trick as the sleeve sits below. Now the good ones can be honed properly and inspected. Asking questions before breaking stuff is a good idea. Also using a 4x4 on top the block , give it rap once the jack is under pressure the sleeve will pop out. How can u predict the rest are good after u clean them up ?
 
I did use a metal spacer and a 4x4 and a piece of thick aluminum and thick plywood to push the sleeve up. It broke when the aluminum slipped and wedged in. And, I did rap on the sleeve while it was under pressure. It was popping out.

What bottle jack do you have that reaches that high without spacers and is manageable?

Also your sentence is confusing? 'How can u predict the rest are good after u clean them up ?' It won't be a prediction once I clean them up. Besides, it's not like there are any new ones out there. Used is all I am finding.
 
having the jack swinging in the air like that is not the best, you use wood blocking under the jack, sitting right on the floor, be it a good sized tree cut to length, or 6x8's , some thing solid that won't slip and tip. have the jack end unscrewed for extra length. find a 1/2 " or thicker piece of metal and cut it to length for the bottom of sleeve. lots of times the whole tractor will lift, that's when you rap the block. and pop out she comes. i am asking you how can you tell that the sleeves will be good after being cleaned up, you might find a crack. you clean them first then come to that decision. that is also why i am giving idea's so the sleeve won't get broken, as pretty hard to find that old stuff and of course it will be used ones, number 3 sleeve appears to have damage to the top from a smack. plus the o ring surfaces must be cleaned really good and checked for pits. might need a bit of silicone with them new o rings, thats what you have to search for now. looks like the block has been cracked also and welded up. post your finished sleeve clean up and honing.
 
After spending time cleaning the block and examining it closer, I have decided it needs a replacement. The outer water jacket froze behind the carburetor as seen in some of the photos, and inside the block the webbing connecting the deck to the side of the block has cracked in several places. I don’t feel right slapping parts on this thing.
 
The machine let me know the head is cracked right between 2 and 3.

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Like to see a picture from farther away so a person can actually see where the crack is. Many times them cracks don’t matter. Plus there is a product out there better than jb weld. It’s called Belzona. The crack can be v’ed out a bit and then smear the stuff in with a sqeegie. Any pits can be gone over. Then have the head resurfaced. Same deal with the block like to see actual cracks.
 
I use kerosene and ag lime to find cracks . The kerosene will creep into crack ,pull the lime into the cracks and expose it better. From photo I’m not convince it’s cracked , but will a side view with the kerosene and lime would convince me looking at the water jacket .
If it is cracked looks like an excellent choice for lock and stitch to correct .
 
I had it magnafluxed. Definitely a crack there. I wiped it with my finger before I took the picture so it somehow looks better. And, that crappy picture of the head is the only one I have. It's at the machine shop.
 
Any pointers for pulling the flywheel? I've found videos with bottle jack pullers.

And the front crank pulley? I got the cross pin out. I need to get proper sockets for the nuts. Not sure how hard to expect the pulley to come off.
 
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