WARDS "GROUND ENGAGING GARDEN TRACTOR" hydro. shift linkage stuck

[john hemphill]

Hi. I picked up this "Wards" "Ground engaging garden tractor" "drive shaft equipped" "Hydrostatic" that had been sitting around outside for years because the owner passed on. It has a briggs twin I/C engine 18hp. Looks to me to be late 70s/early 80s. direction control lever just below the steering wheel is stuck. I was going to pull the cotter pin out of whats holding the linkage to the Hydro. unit engagement lever. Until I realized I lost my xtra long needle nose. OH well. one is on the way. Funny thing. Neither the engine dipstick nor the transmission dipstick had anything save a tiny bit of yellow oil at the very bottom. Maybe he was going to change the fluids? Who knows. Ive been using wd 40 but linkage is still stuck. I was kind of surprised at how much metal was used in these small machines. Does anyone know which part of these typically gets stuck just from sitting around? Engine is free. I have been instructed not to start the unit unless that lever is first unstuck. I noticed there was a label that appeared to have decades of grime over it, on the trans. It read "Low, neutral, hi". I found it in the neutral position. I wonder if the previous owner knew that or not? Moreover I also do not know what fluid goes in that transaxle. Dipstick cap says " Trans. fluid Only. " Anybody know? Thanks.

 

[Mule Meat]

Need a model number. Wards were made by so many different companies it would be hard to pin point a problem on one without it.

 

[Ericp351]

Sounds like same vintage, engine, and drivetrain as a 1980,s Bolens Eliminater series, medium frame, garden tractor. Came both hyd and with heavy duty pealeess gear transitions, OK for ground engagement. I have both. Quality compeditors simular. Shaft drives, not sissy belts! Your High Low sticker contradicts the Hydro trans. First, just figure out gear or hydro trans for the fluid type. If you can,t tell a 4 or 5 sped from a Hydro you are in for a long day. Both are forgiving, yet different as to oil selection. Gl 1 to 4, 90 wt , give or take, gear for gear. 20 wt hyd oil, tractor fluid, or auto trans fluid for hydro. Flat 2 cyl, 40 cid b.s engine , confirms what I reference above. V twin Brigs a bit newer. Hint. Hydro Trans has the dip stick. Probally a filter. Gear, the plug. Good luck. Better to keep these very rugged machines going than to spend days on some phone like a sissy or jail bait school girl! Edit. Pretty sure Gilson Bros. Made. If so, good stuff. I have 2 Gilson made Ford mowers from that time period. Wilson did have a 2 range transfer case with hydro. I had a 2 cyl Gilson Ford, but with a gear trans axle. You may be able to source Gilson, M Ward, or Ford for parts and books. The engine sets vintage at about 1983 to 1987. Those at 14 to 20 hp boxers were all the same. More cubes per hp than the vangards that replaced them.

 

[NormanSavesTractors]

Can you share a photo of the machine? It wouldn't be that uncommon if all of the oil just leaked out of the rear end over the unknown amount of time. Projects like this are fun, you get to be a tractor detective.

As far as oil for the rear for a Hydrostatic, based on your description of yellow oil, you can use a universal transmission/hydro fluid. I use the Tractor Supply Universal Trans Fluid for most of my garden tractors. If the fluid was before was red, I would use a ATF.

Post some photos of what you're working with.

 

[oldsarge]

Why do people use WD-40as a penetrating oilwhen it's not??

 

[kencombs]

Likely you have a two speed + N between the Hydro unit and differential. Lots of premium stuff back then used that setup, AC and JD come to mind. I suspect yours is Gilson made as they produced MW better stuff for years.

 

[kencombs]

Why do people use WD-40as a penetrating oilwhen it's not??

Even just straight auto trans fluid is better than WD-40. Add some solvent to thin it out and its much better.