Back blade question - Kubota b6100

[Stan Coryell]

Im contemplating buying a used back blade for my Kubota.
I think its 6' wide. Will that work?
Want to use it to scrape gravel back onto our road.
Any advice on this?

The blade needs to be wider than your rear wheels. There is somewhat of a learning curve.

 

[Ray,IN]

Too wide a scraper blade will overload a smaller(read that lighter) tractor rather easily. IMO it's best to use a narrower blade and make more passes unless your tractor weighs over 5,000#.

 

[BobnUt]

I've maintained miles of roads for years with my 2n and 6' landscape rake
Works wonders on roadbase and 1"- gravel. Anything bigger, not so much.
Angle it and pitch it for crowning, plus it tends to skip over any baseball size or
bigger rocks you'll end up hand picking to get rid of. solid blade is my choice for snow

 

[Blackhole49]

A 5' is well suited for my B7200HST and BX25.

 

[paul]

That might be a bit big of a blade for your size tractor. Might be hard to keep the front end down.

Back blade isn’t a perfect tool, but it can do a good job with some practice.

Angle the blade to get rid of washboards. If you leave it straight you will just magnify the ripples, but angled will flatten them out.

Adjust the right 3pt arm to crown your driveway.

Lengthen the top link to cut more aggressively. Shorten to drag less. Turn the blade around and pull with it backwards to groom the gravel hardly cutting at all.

Paul

 

[Caryc]

That might be a bit big of a blade for your size tractor. Might be hard to keep the front end down.

Back blade isn’t a perfect tool, but it can do a good job with some practice.

Angle the blade to get rid of washboards. If you leave it straight you will just magnify the ripples, but angled will flatten them out.

Adjust the right 3pt arm to crown your driveway.

Lengthen the top link to cut more aggressively. Shorten to drag less. Turn the blade around and pull with it backwards to groom the gravel hardly cutting at all.

Paul

I have a roll over two blade box blade that can just roll over so the other blade is angled backwards on the dirt.

 

[Tom R S]

The blade needs to be wider than your rear wheels. There is somewhat of a learning curve.

My tractor us a Kubota 6100 4wd. 3 cylinder 20hp.
Thank you all for your comments!

 

[504]

The light weight blades most commonly bought are almost worthless. I have a LandPride that came with cat2 pins. On an angle it will stop my 656. I have broken two hitches on two different tractors with that blade. After a little rain I can cut my driveway so it looks like a grader was there. You don’t have to go a foot down with the first pass

 

[MarkB_MI]

My tractor us a Kubota 6100 4wd. 3 cylinder 20hp.
Thank you all for your comments!

I think your 'bota will have a hard time with a blade big and heavy enough for serious road grading. A landscape rake is probably a more practical option. That said, if the blade you're looking at is cheap enough you have little to lose by giving it a try.

 

[timcasbolt]

My tractor us a Kubota 6100 4wd. 3 cylinder 20hp.
Thank you all for your comments!

14 hp at 2800 rpm

 

[showcrop]

I've never had much luck with them, as soon as your front wheels change elevation the blade does too.

That is what gauge wheels are for. I added one to mine.

 

[Texasmark]

I don't know what kind of equipment you have but I have a Ford 8N and an MF202 and they don't work that way. There is no down pressure on the three point. The back blade contacts the ground by it's own weight. There is nothing pushing it down on the ground. Both tractors have position control. In other words the blades stay at the position you place them. But if you were strong enough, you could still grab that blade and lift it up. There is actually nothing holding it down on the ground but it's own weight.

I solved the light weight problem by putting several steel pipes on top of the blade. The other thing that works is to back up to do the final blade work......that way your tractor is on level ground and your blade height stays pretty much constant.......takes a little effort but if a smooth driveway is your goal and you are going to do it at all, then do it right.....get it level! On a 6100 the number indicates 50 hp or more I would think. I have no problem blading with my Ford 2000.....about 30 PTO HP.

 

[NDIHC]

According to tractor data a Kubota 6100 has 14 hp, weighs about 1,000 pounds and the 3 point is cat 1 with 400 pound capacity. Those would be the limiting factors I would think.

 

[Texasmark]

According to tractor data a Kubota 6100 has 14 hp, weighs about 1,000 pounds and the 3 point is cat 1 with 400 pound capacity. Those would be the limiting factors I would think.

I guess I should have looked that up. Once upon a time I had a 2wd 16 HP AC diesel tractor I bought with a 3 pt, 3 blade turf mower primarily for mowing my acreage needing such. A new neighbor arrived and I thought I would help him put in his water line.

The idea was to drive along the dug ditch with soil piled up on one side, with a 5' blade (I already had in my implement lineup), positioned at about a 30* angle to the ditch and the soil was damp clay. It didn't work. The tractor was too light on the front end for the tractor to stay aligned with the ditch. Probably the same tractor with 4wd would have had the additional and torque on the front end to get the job done.....maybe, maybe not.

So I respectfully excuse myself from this post!

 

[paul]

My brother in law had that model or one size bigger or smaller, so I knew what it was. I used it to side rake with my NH 55 rake a time or two. As small as it is I felt like I was sitting in the windrow! Cough cough….

Big garden tractor in size, but a tough one.

Paul