Back blade question - Kubota b6100

Tom R S

Member
Im contemplating buying a used back blade for my Kubota.
I think its 6' wide. Will that work?
Want to use it to scrape gravel back onto our road.
Any advice on this?
 
I've never had much luck with them, as soon as your front wheels change elevation the blade does too.
I don't know what kind of equipment you have but I have a Ford 8N and an MF202 and they don't work that way. There is no down pressure on the three point. The back blade contacts the ground by it's own weight. There is nothing pushing it down on the ground. Both tractors have position control. In other words the blades stay at the position you place them. But if you were strong enough, you could still grab that blade and lift it up. There is actually nothing holding it down on the ground but it's own weight.
 
Save your money and frustration, you will not be happy with it. Lots of people around here have had them and I have too. Pretty much useless. IMO 👨‍🌾
I was considering getting one after watching a neighbor grading his driveway with one. It looked to be doing a good job. Now you have me wondering. What does yours do or not do that makes it useless?
 
Are they the best implement for grading a road....no. Are they the worst....no. Will they do the job with some adjusting and learning curve....yes in most cases.

Much like debates about the best oil type (conventional vs synthetic) everyone has an opinion.
 
Seems like a lot of hate for back blades here. I have one plus a box blade. Each is useful for different tasks.

Your B6100 is a really small tractor so I would suggest a 5 footer. My 6-ft is all my 20hp Deere M wants at times, depending on what I'm doing. If you want to do dirt work in the future I think a 6-ft would be too much.
 
I'll add that I've got a home built box blade and an old ford 6' straight blade. Heavy moving dirt work the box blade is superior. General maintenance the straight blade is better, including pulling ditches back open and crowning a road since it can be angled L-R.
 
Could be that it's actually the operator that makes a back blade useless.

I have a box blade and a regular open end scraper blade that adjusts to different angles. I also have a landscape rake, they are a very useful thing also.
 
Remember that the blade will usually be angled in use, making it cover a narrower track than its full width. My advice is to use the heaviest blade your tractor can lift. Since I don't know what that is in your case, it's hard to make a recommendation.

I mostly use an 8 foot yard rake for road grading, although I'll use my heavy 7 foot rear blade in the spring when the driveway is soft and the potholoes are large. I also have a six foot box scraper that gets used for heavier tasks that the blade and rake can't handle.
 
I have an old Russell pull type grader with an 8 foot (if I remember right) moldboard that I pull with one of my Ms. It is about all the M wants to handle when cutting deep to even out potholes.. I was considering taking off the front wheels and building a hitch to fasten to the 3 point on my 1066 so I could adjust the cutting depth without having someone on the grader running the hand wheels. Either that or getting a good heavy back blade. My driveway us almost half a mile long and could use some attention. I used to hire the county blade to shape it up every so often but they are getting so they don't want to do that anymore.
 
Yesterday's Tractor Forums

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top