Trailer coupler broke

[timsch]

The trailer coupler on my trailer failed. The tongue locking under the ball no longer holds in position. Pic below shows it dropped down. I can push it up and down in both locked and unlocked positions. Nothing obviously broken to me when looking at it, but something's wrong. Not sure what repair options there are, but if someone can point out the issue is likely to be, I may be able to fix it.

I see that I can buy an entire replacement coupler. If that's the route I need to go, any recommendations on which style of coupler mechanism is preferred? I see that there are different options.

This is for a 16' tandem trailer with the triangular A-frame coupler.

 

[wh]

Look up bull dog brand coupler. There are none better in my humble thinking. I would replace it. Comes in 2inch and 2 5/16 inches long ball size This is at northern tool I use redneck trailer supply

 

[Eman85]

I have a trailer that did that, the section can spread allowing the lock to drop. If you raise the latch portion and lookthere shouldbe an indentaion that holds the tongue that locks the ball. Raise the tongue and squeeze it all back where it belongs.

 

[wh]

Also forgot about trailer.

 

[Russ from MN]

Possibly worn out, do you put some grease on the ball occasionally?

 

[timsch]

No, I don't usually grease the ball. I'll keep that in mind, but it's not worn away where it meets the ball.

 

[kencombs]

I second the suggestion for a Bulldog coupler. Much faster/easier to latch and unlatch. And, I've never seen one fail. Can't say that about the style you currently have.

 

[Keith True]

You can buy kits for most couplers.I still have a few different ones from when I did a lot of trailer work.Most of the problems came from hitting the latch with the vehicle hitch while backing up to it,with the latch in the open position.Not much meat in those latch pin holes,and if hit hard the pin will rip the hole wide open.Plenty strong enough to secure the latch,but not the weight of a vehicle trying to bend it backwards.You will never know when you actually do it,one day things will just drop down.

 

[soupkid]

I sorta did what was mentioned in post 3 except I welded a 1/4" nut where the indentations used to be.
All of a 10 minute fix that was dirt cheep.

 

[chvet73]

Maybe it’s just me but repairs to a worn out coupler are not the route to go. I’m not going to subject my and others safety to a repair that might hold on a trailer coupler. Be safe replace the coupler.

 

[Ray,IN]

Without seeing the top of the locking mechanism, I will not comment on any repair. Replacement is the safest option IMO.

 

[timsch]

If it's just the sort of repair that Eman85 & soupkid are pointing too, I'm confident that I'm not putting anyone at risk. Weather hasn't permitted it yet, but I'm planning on welding something in to be the stopper/guide shortly.

 

[MM-TX]

Since you had to ask are you really that confident you’re not putting anyone at risk when you can put a better one on pretty cheap.

 

[Mcrafty1]

Honestly, new would be the way to go. jmho

 

[560Dennis]

I agree with new , corrosion visible , the hitch is load capacity is diminished.
I know it’s a lot of work but the thing busted cause the trailer said time to change me. Ok

 

[timsch]

Point taken. Bulldog will be ordered.

 

[wh]

Too many variables in fixing it. Most of all the safety factor. And with all the tv lawyers out there, if something happened it could get expensive in court.

 

[Watthour]

Just keep the sliding coupler cleaned and lubricated. It you've ever had one rust shut, you will know why.